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Pin’d alpha suspension coupler

Vern

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Anyone ran one? I know in general people seem to like coupled suspensions. I personally have never ran anything coupled, but I already had the pin’d brace and he had some blemish couplers at the snow show for about half the cost of new so I picked one up. When adding something like this or the ol kiss coupler zbroz used to sell for stock skids is there any typical adjustments that need made to the shocks or pretty much slap it on and see what happens and adjust from there?
 

summ8rmk

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Coupled skids are good for chutes and real high hp.
Take all the fun out of boondocking.

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Vern

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I get that, it was cheap enough I figured it was worth tinkering with. I’ve wheelied my na 165 straight over backwards on climbs before so I figure it might have some usefulness
 

summ8rmk

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Thats exactly what it excels at. Keep them skis down and climb higher with more stability.

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sno*jet

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i think most riders over 250 would benefit from coupling almost everywhere, we always cranked dads coupler blocks up on his 90s polaris' and he got stuck less and that was better for everybody :D
 

Vern

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I’m definitely in the over 250 category, and have my rear shock pumped up pretty high to compensate and help with the ski lift in steep climbs. Was kinda curious if the coupling would allow me to lower the rear shock a bit for overall ride quality and still control ski lift on big climbs. I’ll have to do some experimenting once the snow flies.
 

sno*jet

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i think you might be onto something with that, it looks super easy to adjust too
 

Sage Crusher

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Have you tried to lock out that rear stock shock on your Alpha? It's not really a coupler but add's the effect.
On the K Mod skinny you have a wider range of coupling #1 to #4 and it flat out works, but you get a host of other enhancements with the skid.

Yeah it's spendy, but well worth the exchange
 

Vern

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I’ve messed with the lockout a little but not a lot. The pin’d coupler is just on the end of a bolt with a lock nut so technically it should be infinitely adjustable to an extent. I’ve heard good things about the kmod, but it’s not in the cards.
 

Sage Crusher

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Ya the K mod seem spendy initially... but well worth the investment.
I just don't know how the Monorail holds up to fully coupled, and another holes drilled in it and I think you have to run a rail brace .
I would look also at replacing the rear pivot arm from Pin'd also, seen some stockers break, and then you have their complete package for about $400.0
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Vern

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Yeah, I already had the pin’d brace which is why I figured I’d give the coupler a shot. So now I have everything but the rear pivot arm, but he said the coupler was designed to work with the stock arm for rmsha guys that were in a stock class and couldn’t mod the suspension. I’m sure his is stronger than the cast cat ones though. Also for those not aware cat actually made a change to beef up that pivot arm in 21 or 22. I had my original one on my ‘20 bust the whole top out last season, like is fairly common, and when I replaced it the new one the top section goes straight across and is squared off where it meets the sides vs having the little recessed cut out sections in the corners like the early arms. Hopefully that makes sense.
 

boondocker97

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I’m definitely in the over 250 category, and have my rear shock pumped up pretty high to compensate and help with the ski lift in steep climbs. Was kinda curious if the coupling would allow me to lower the rear shock a bit for overall ride quality and still control ski lift on big climbs. I’ll have to do some experimenting once the snow flies.
Yes. When you couple a skid it makes the front shock compress with the rear. So once it engages you are borrowing spring rate from the front track shocks.
 
B
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I'm not sure why you would want to add a coupler when you have the QSL feature unless you really wanted to dial the coupling in I guess. I have used a Skinz Arc coupler before in an uncoupled skid and loved it. But it was controlled from the handlebar so you could leave it off and pull the skis all over then lock it in right as you rolled into a climb or a steep feature to power through it.
 

KMOD

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Coupling 101.
When the rear of the suspension compresses, and the scissor touches the coupling block it couples the rear arm to the front arm, so they work together like a parallelogram. All our suspensions are coupling suspensions engineered with equal length arms so when coupled they are working together combining spring rate and compression in the shocks through the full travel. We have 4 settings of coupling, measured in the amount of travel of the front arm coupled with the rear arm.
The number 1 on our coupling block is about 20% of the front arm travel when it is coupled with the rear, 2 is about 40%, 3 -70% and 4 is 85-90% of the front arm travel. When coupled it is the rear arm trying to pull the front arm up in the vehicle, the more aggressive the coupling the more load on the skid and vehicle its mounted to. Some models need tunnel reinforcing because of the extra load.

Stock mountain suspensions are designed for the front and rear arms to work independently, the front arms are longer, and the rear is almost half as long. Spring rates are calibrated to work independently, so it is possible to couple a stock suspension up to about 20-25% of the front arm travel. Anything more than 25% will just lock up the rear so it won't compress any more, it will defiantly help hold the front end down but if the sled hits something hard enough to get it to compress then the weak link in the suspension or tunnel will show it ugly head as in bent parts or bellowed tunnel.

All the aftermarket companies selling couplers will work and look to be a good quality product, just do your diligence and mount it so they will not couple more than 20-25%.
Kevin
 

Anylizer

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I installed the "Pin'd" brace & coupling system on my "22 Mtn Cat last season. I LOVE IT !! It takes all the "Squirrel" out of the Alpha Rail. What i mean is, it becomes more predictable like a twin rail, yet you still have all the "nimble" qualities the the Alpha offers. My sled has the ATAC system, so I have used the "lock-out" The coupling is a much better option, hands down. I change the coupling length based on snow conditions and type of terrain I'm riding.

Nothing but great products & service from Pin'd Performance.
 
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