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BDX oil injection delete kit

S

SnowBound

Well-known member
I want to install this on my m1000. I would like to know if tapping a hole on the bottom of the crankcase for better lubrication is needed for this kit. I have heard that it is not necessary and that the crankcase will get all the lubrication it needs from the mixed gas. Who's running this kit and how do they like it?
 
Have not run the lubricated block off from BD. However, the middle section of the cases with the cross shaft in it, is isolated from the mixed fuel in the bottom of each case (pto/mag).The only lube it sees is from the oil pump. It seems to me that those bushings on the cross shaft and the main crank/cross shaft gear need some love from the oil. If it were mine I'd drill it and provide some.
 
I have an 09 m8 with a cutler hairdryer. I have been running it problem free since I set it up out of the crate. I hate the heavy oiling on the bottom end and have removed my tank and pump and am in the process of installing the BDX delete bushing (they say it's an oil impregnated material but I want to be safe. I drilled and tapped a hole into my water pump side and swung my center oil inj. Line over to this side as the twisted guys do. My only concern is possibly seizing the oil pump shaft. Does anyone have any experience with this? Please advise. Thanks in advance.
 
Got 10,000+ miles on deletes now, done it a few ways but very happy with the way I and most others seem to have settled on now.

We install the delete, block the lines to the t-bodies, then put a 6mil zerk where the banjo fitting is on bottom of the motor.

I used to grease a couple times per season, but after running with people who have never added more grease after install, I now just grease at install, then don't worry about it.

If the cavity is sealed, the grease is going nowhere, if it isn't, then the premix will get in there.

I currently have almost 2k on my turbo, delete installed by cutler (who had no suggestions or reservations when I asked him to install this way) before I ever rode it.

Very happy with the zerk system, works well, simple, and gives more peace of mind than just slapping in the delete which in itself has worked very well for many people without even adding grease.


Btw, premix heavy. We run 32:1 or heavier here.
 
Got 10,000+ miles on deletes now, done it a few ways but very happy with the way I and most others seem to have settled on now.

We install the delete, block the lines to the t-bodies, then put a 6mil zerk where the banjo fitting is on bottom of the motor.

I used to grease a couple times per season, but after running with people who have never added more grease after install, I now just grease at install, then don't worry about it.

If the cavity is sealed, the grease is going nowhere, if it isn't, then the premix will get in there.

I currently have almost 2k on my turbo, delete installed by cutler (who had no suggestions or reservations when I asked him to install this way) before I ever rode it.

Very happy with the zerk system, works well, simple, and gives more peace of mind than just slapping in the delete which in itself has worked very well for many people without even adding grease.


Btw, premix heavy. We run 32:1 or heavier here.

How come at 32:1? Just wondering since the instructions from BDX say 40:1. I just got mine for Christmas and am about to install. Just want to do it right.
 
I've never heard of it causing any problems. Especially if your using good synthetic oil.
 
XP Killer - I haven't had any injector issues. Possibly the best mod that I have done to my sled. You won't be sorry. Going back to the original question, I did not drill the case either. 2011 m8 sp
 
XP Killer - I haven't had any injector issues. Possibly the best mod that I have done to my sled. You won't be sorry. Going back to the original question, I did not drill the case either. 2011 m8 sp

Not really familiar with the whole conversion. How did you get away with not drilling?
 
You add a couple ounces of grease into the case before you seal it up with the BDX delete part. Then there is a banjo fitting on the bottom of the case that you can remove and add a grease zerk into; I think that this is what most guys are doing. BCIL did a good write up on this a while back. Then it's only a matter of pulling your belly pan/plate once or twice a winter an putting a pump or two of grease in there. A lot will say that this isn't even necessary but I do it for added security. Fell free to hit me up with any questions.
 
Not really familiar with the whole conversion. How did you get away with not drilling?

It essentially comes down to this:


Possibility #1, IF the center section is sealed as some believe (some are tighter than others, NONE are sealed or the oil coming in would be a big problem) then the grease you put in there will stay there, and it's going to do the job of lubricating the shaft.

Possibility #2, IF the center section is not sealed as some believe, then the grease will be washed away by premix, which will do the job of lubricating the shaft.

ONE of those has to be true, or somewhere in between... either way, the job gets done AS LONG as you provide that initial lubrication.

If you do NOT provide that initial lubrication, and option #1 were the case (or you just happen to have a much tighter set of bearings than others) that is the only way this goes wrong, and it has gone wrong for a few people, but the solution is very simple, and is very much proven.

These things are cheap & simple... nobody's getting rich off them, if you call me and ask me for one, it's not even worth my time to sell just that, so the motivation to explain this is not a financial one or anything like that... just to get that out of the way. I just have set up quite a few, and have NEVER had someone regret doing one.
 
I'm currently installing the oil delete on my TM8. Why couldn't you install an extended hose to that banjo fitting on the case so you could have a grease zerk out where it's a lot more accessible? I was going to do this and pre load the hose with grease before I installed it.
 
My question on this method is will the grease pressure push the hose off the fitting?
 
I've decided to just install a 90 degree zerk in the case and grease it every now and then--that way I won't have to worry about the hose coming off.
 
oil delete

Backcountryislife could you repost the pics with your how to write up,the pics seem to get lost after awhile,Thanks.
 
So the guys running the zerk set up.


Just remove the banjo bolt, thread in the zerk., grease the zerk. No engine disassembly? And besides the one Zerk, Everything else that needs grease get lubrication from pre mixing?
 
I'm currently installing the oil delete on my TM8. Why couldn't you install an extended hose to that banjo fitting on the case so you could have a grease zerk out where it's a lot more accessible? I was going to do this and pre load the hose with grease before I installed it.

We did that on the 2012 sleds, as the cross member made it about impossible to remove the banjo, so we put a line on it and ran the zerk up by the throttle bodies.

398041_2378569665723_1089636051_n.jpg


396414_2378570145735_1434011596_n.jpg



As long as the hose ends are clamped, it's a good way to go.

This one caught us by surprise (first PC to get deleted) so we had to put a few fittings together, didn't have exactly what we needed.
 
So the guys running the zerk set up.


Just remove the banjo bolt, thread in the zerk., grease the zerk. No engine disassembly? And besides the one Zerk, Everything else that needs grease get lubrication from pre mixing?

Remove pump, remove banjo, put grease in PTO hole (pump attachment point where delete goes) and then attach zerk where banjo was & give it 6 or 8 squirts or so. Don't wait till you feel any kind of pressure, we don't need crazy amounts of oil in there.

That's it.

What we're putting grease into is the center section shown between the dark spots where the bearings were around the water pump gear in the center

attachment.php


The rest gets premix directly. The zerk is right under the center of that gear, and the delete is at the end of it.
 
What if I use the oil pump as the oil pump for my turbo? Same procedure, just without the block off plate?
 
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