HOW TO PRIME THE FUEL PUMP ON POLARIS CFi - SnoWest Snowmobile Forum
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  #1  
Old 03-30-2008, 08:28 PM
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Default HOW TO PRIME THE FUEL PUMP ON POLARIS CFi

Posted this elswhere but I've been getting a fair amount of PM's on this.

Sometimes when the fuel lines are removed, the engine is pulled, fuel fiter is replaced or the tank is drained or run out of fuel, it may be necessary to prime the fuel pump on your 2005 -2009 CFi Polaris.

There is a fuel prime plug in the harness... to prime the system takes less than a minute on digital wrench by your dealer... OR you can do it yourself with any 12volt battery Run +12v to the red wire in the fuel-prime plug, (-) 12v to the brown wire in the same plug, listen for the pump to run for a bit.





Also handy when replacing the fuel filter or anytime you bleed the lines.. or that after summer first fire up and the system has lost pressure. Also handy for when you need to put fuel stabilizer in the system.... this will circulate the stabilizer thru the fuel injector rails and back to the tank.

Add 12 volts to the fuel prime and viola.... starts right up. Sometimes the check valves in the fuel pumps aren't the best and the residual pressure in the injector hoses bleeds back... a bit of residual pressure is what makes the CFI sled easy to start as all that needs to happen is to have the injectors "fire" and then it starts up energising the stator fully, and spinning the fuel pump up to pressure. If you find this to be the case, where the sled is difficult to start and your sled is still under warranty, have them fix this problem... They will probably need to replace the whole tank/pump assembly as they are not sold seperately (at least in 2007... The 2008 pump assy is available seperately!)

If you ride with a bunch of other CFI Polaris'... keep a "fuel prime" battery in your trailer/toolbag... A 12volt R/C car ni-cad pack works great for this... Though any 12volt battery will do.

You could also use this to power up the MFD. (unplug the headlights)

$20 at Tower Hobbies.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...I=GPMP0253&P=7

Get a couple of the charging plugs too.. One to splice into your sled... the other to charge the pack with a 1 amp or less trickle charger..
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXWW68&P=M

If you run your sled out of fuel, you could be pulliing for a bit to get it started and primed.

If you run the sled out of gas and are priming the system... let the pump run for 20-30 seconds on the prime battery... this will circulate the fuel thru the system, into the injector-rails and back to the tank.. self bleeding system... Like on a modern car or truck (gas engine)... the car/truck has a battery however and you can hear the pump running.

On a batteryless system, the CFI/EFI depends on the residual pressure in the lines to supply just enough fuel to start the motor... then the stator takes over and supplies electricity to the fuel pump to run the sled.

Some CFi sleds can get difficult to start if the check valve in the pump that maintains the residual pressure gets gummed up.

Quote:
IQ CFI Fuel Pump Prime Plug
IQ CFI models feature a fuel pump prime plug. Use the fuel
pump prime plug to power-up the fuel pump when purging the
fuel system of air or when testing fuel pump pressure.
The fuel pump prime plug consists of two wires (BRN and
RED).
Quote:
IQ Chassis Power Plug
IQ models (CFI and carbureted) feature a chassis power
diagnostic plug. Connect the plug to the M-10 ACE / ECUChassis
Power-Up cable, PN PA-46355 and a fully charged 12-
volt battery. The plug consists of two wires (BRN and RED/
WHT).
Once powered, all of the RED/WHT chassis power circuits will
be powered with battery voltage. The circuits include:
• Head / Tail / Brake Lamps
• MFD (Multi Function Display)
• Accessory Power Plugs
• Hand / Thumb Warmers
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

On the 2005 900's and the 2006 700/900's

On the 900's the Fuel prime connector is up by the steering column... next to the diagnostic link.



Same prime technique...

I've also had a bad chassis power-up relay... stuck in the closed positon that caused problems. This allowed the little bit of power that was produced by the stator to bleed off thru the headlights and not allow it to start.

Quote:
Chassis Relay: The chassis relay is activated by the
ECU at approximately 950 RPM. Below 950 RPM, all
power supplied by the regulator / rectifier (RED circuit)
is used to power the ECU and fuel pump.
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Old 03-30-2008, 09:49 PM
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If a person wanted to add a small lead acid battery or possibly a lithium ion battery to the electrical system to make it more stable and provide a better power source for running a GPS

Is there a wire harness that can be plugged into the open plug that sits next to the secondary to facillitate a battery.

The battery power would then go over the ignition switch and it should provide a more constant DC pwr supply to run your accesories and also the thumb and hand warmers should work better at low rpms

On a side note but very important can you charge a lithium ion battery the same way as a lead acid battery
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Old 03-30-2008, 09:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rab View Post
If a person wanted to add a small lead acid battery or possibly a lithium ion battery to the electrical system to make it more stable and provide a better power source for running a GPS

Is there a wire harness that can be plugged into the open plug that sits next to the secondary to facillitate a battery.

The battery power would then go over the ignition switch and it should provide a more constant DC pwr supply to run your accesories and also the thumb and hand warmers should work better at low rpms

On a side note but very important can you charge a lithium ion battery the same way as a lead acid battery
Sorry I never seen the other threads on Batt hook up
disregaurd the above q's
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Old 03-31-2008, 10:26 AM
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This is good info but surprised it's needed? Still good info that just may help sometime.

I pulled my d7 over about 5 times after summer storage and it fired up. On the hill or after a night sitting, it's two pulls. Guess my system is all good?

I will be changing the filter and so on probably soon or at least sometime in the fall.
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Old 03-31-2008, 12:52 PM
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Good info, thanks mountainhorse!
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Old 05-04-2008, 04:17 PM
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--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The prime is mostly for engine removals, fuel filter replacements, tank replacements, injector swaps etc...

For the most part, the system will not need to be primed..

The CFi is designed to start right up, even if you run out of fuel... I thought that this would be handy info for CFi people out there.

One other use for "priming the system" is to circulate gas, with summer storage fuel-stabilizer in it on occasion... run it for 30 seconds and the stabilized fuel will circulate thru the fuel injection system and return to the tank.
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Old 05-04-2008, 09:48 PM
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does anyone know if it will harm the pump if you repeatedly run it out of gas I know in the automotive world if you run it out of gas to much you burn out the pump which also sits in the tank
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Old 05-05-2008, 12:16 AM
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it will damage them just like in your autos. same type of fuel pumps. the gas lubricates them and cools them. when you run them out of gas they heat up and damage the bearings and gears. eventually ruin the pump. best not to run them out or it will get costly.
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Old 05-05-2008, 12:34 AM
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Nice thing about the batteryless CFi is that the pump will not continue to run after the engine runs out of gas... unlike in a car...

No engine run...no electricity...no fuel pump run

Running them dry is not a great Idea, but not as big of a deal as on a car/truck where the pump runs after the tank is dry and the ignition is on.
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Old 05-05-2008, 07:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mountainhorse View Post
Nice thing about the batteryless CFi is that the pump will not continue to run after the engine runs out of gas... unlike in a car...

No engine run...no electricity...no fuel pump run

Running them dry is not a great Idea, but not as big of a deal as on a car/truck where the pump runs after the tank is dry and the ignition is on.
MH, the fuel pump on a car/truck shuts off when the engine stalls. if the computer dont see a crank signal it shuts the relay off. and then only runs when cranking or for 3 seconds when turning key on. just adding more info. mechanic for 20 years and a shop owner for 3
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Old 06-08-2008, 02:01 PM
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BD,

Good input that I didn't know about.

The fuel pump on my Chevy PU runs when the ignition key is turned on...I guess until enough pressure is built up.

On the chev, when Ive run out of fuel, i could hear the pump running as the truck coasted to a stop and the engine had already died... It does stop after a few seconds though.
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Old 10-24-2008, 11:45 AM
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ttt
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Old 10-24-2008, 12:31 PM
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I beleive I ran into this problem last year! I was pulling a hill and accidently hit the kill switch. The sled died. It wouldnt start for the life of me. We pulled her over for like twenty minutes. Changed plugs and did all the ordinary things. Even poured fuel in the cylinders. Finnaly after some time she fired back up and ran fine the rest of the day!

I wonder if the fuel pump lost prime. Someone also said I may have ran all the fuel out of the fuel rail???

Sounds more like the pump lost prime to me???

Your thoughts??
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Old 10-25-2008, 01:00 PM
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Default Nice post

Thanks for the info it is nice to know how to prime these new sleds.
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Old 10-27-2008, 03:18 AM
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Maybe just carry small jumper wires vs a battery. Use the power from a sled that is running.
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Old 11-20-2008, 11:02 AM
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ttt
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Old 11-20-2008, 11:38 AM
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Thanks for the info. I have a binder going with all these key posts printed. Sure is good to have a resource like this forum.
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Old 12-08-2008, 10:55 PM
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TTT..

Good info for those who are getting their sleds out of storage...or changing fuel filters for the new season like i am doing..

Thanks as usual MH..
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Old 12-09-2008, 01:03 AM
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Works slick. Just finished the 860 Saturday, slapped 12v to the two wires for about 10 seconds and it fired over on the second pull.

Dang cool to provide that jumper wire there.

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Old 12-21-2008, 10:00 PM
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How many acc. plugs are there on the dragons and locations.
Thanks.
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Old 12-29-2008, 11:08 AM
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Thumbs down Molex plug from Tower Hobbies incorrect part # !

I ordered two packages of the molex connectors that Mountanhorse listed above from Tower Hobbies.

That connector is way too small!

I guess I have extra connectors

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Old 12-30-2008, 02:22 AM
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rideh2o,

Quote:
That connector is way too small!
Too small for what??

If you were expecting it to plug into the factory harness... no it will NOT plug into it.

Probably my bad for not being clear on that

Quote:
Get a couple of the charging plugs too.. One to splice into your sled... the other to charge the pack with a 1 amp or less trickle charger..
The connectors were listed to plug into the battery pack listed in the post, not into the harness. This keeps you from needing to cut the connector off of the end of the pack.

You would have to splice the Tower Hobbies connector into the factory harness so that you can plug the battery pack into the harness.

Splicing so that the factory plug is still intact and functional for dealer service if needed.

If you are looking for the mating plug for the facory pump prime plug, I have no idea where to find that. I've seen other similar plugs, but none that match exactly.

=================
This connector fits into ....


This Pack...


Not into the sleds harness.
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  #23  
Old 11-05-2009, 11:06 PM
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"Many times a day I realize how much my own outer and inner life is built upon the labors of my fellow men, both living and dead and how earnestly I must exert myself in order to give in return as much as I have received" Albert Einstein

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Old 11-06-2009, 10:05 AM
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Mountainhorse... I've been thinking about this since a couple days ago when I re-read my way through one of your other threads explaining how to add a battery into the system for small draw stuff like GPS.
I used to race radio control cars a few years back, and most of my machines used a starter box to start the nitro engine. The batteries I used in these boxes would probably be great for this purpose? they aren't very heavy, and are inexpensive. I had some in both of these sizes before that had a higher Ah rating
http://www.hobbico.com/fieldequip/hcap0800.html
Prime your pump anytime you like, haha... Hook it up to the unused start position on the key switch!!!
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  #25  
Old 11-06-2009, 11:59 AM
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