• Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

It Has Begun, CR500 Build, WIP part 1

LoudHandle

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Apr 21, 2011
3,900
2,775
113
Valdez, AK
Yeah, that looks fantastic. To be honest, some people just can't pay that close of attention to details. This here was probably his best weld.
View attachment 257696

Very True! The majority haven't a clue of what is involved to make something truly last, function well, and be user friendly, and most don't want to pay for quality craftsmanship even if they could find it. The work shown in the photo and some that wasn't is running the client / original boat builder upwards of a $20,000 bill to rework their cobbled together non-functioning crap. But if they can't fish it can cost them far more than that a day!

Sorry for the rant, back to topic!
 

B&M Fabrications

SnoWest Sponsor
Lifetime Membership
Aug 3, 2011
800
803
93
North Branch, MN
www.bmfabrications.com
Your welder definitely is not an artist with his beads, but it looks to be sound.

Off topic but here is what I would rather the beads look like, but that is the artisian in me coming thru. For reference the bulk of the aluminum is 1" thick on both pieces. the boom is 6" schedule 80 pipe.

Here is a Pic of a recent job I did at work. I redid the connection end of the Main boom for a 1 year old local seine style fishing boat the "Royal Fortune". The boat builder had under engineered his design and the heel pin connector bent. I re-did it with an aluminum double shear pivot mount that will get welded to the free standing mast it has stainless sleeves on the pin bores with grease grooves and zircs, a new stainless steel heel pin universal with grease zircs and flow paths, and the new double ear connector on the main boom with stainless steel hard eyes and grease zircs. They should never have to mess with this again as long as they grease it occasionally.

picture.php
Off topic again but, LH -

You do nice work.
 
S
Feb 15, 2015
381
91
28
CO, western slope
I can stick, mig, and tig steel.. aluminum is a different animal. LH you have some nice work going on there, I wish you were local
We all do, I surely would have paid a significant amount more to have those kinds of welds on my bike. Especially considering the whole machine will be worth quite a bit overall, having that confidence and good looking welds would be worth the minor cost to the overall product. Especially if you are slapping on a $7000 track kit.
 

B&M Fabrications

SnoWest Sponsor
Lifetime Membership
Aug 3, 2011
800
803
93
North Branch, MN
www.bmfabrications.com
We all do, I surely would have paid a significant amount more to have those kinds of welds on my bike. Especially considering the whole machine will be worth quite a bit overall, having that confidence and good looking welds would be worth the minor cost to the overall product. Especially if you are slapping on a $7000 track kit.
Minnesota is a lot closer than AK, not to take from LH'S offer or sound cocky but we can produce a fine aluminum welded product for you if you are really searching.....now that it's done and all.

Sent from my SM-G928V using Tapatalk
 

LoudHandle

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Apr 21, 2011
3,900
2,775
113
Valdez, AK
Minnesota is a lot closer than AK, not to take from LH'S offer or sound cocky but we can produce a fine aluminum welded product for you if you are really searching.....now that it's done and all.

Sent from my SM-G928V using Tapatalk

Yes you do! Keep up the good work! Back to the build. :face-icon-small-hap
 
S
Feb 15, 2015
381
91
28
CO, western slope
Coming together now...
upload_-1.jpg
Very nice, my cousin just powder coated his cases a really cool red color. Would love to do something to mine, but it's already back together. What intake is that?

As for my project I have a couple pictures I still need to upload. Sent the radiators back to the welder, got the angle way off on one, and it was hitting the pipe, the other rad had to modify the outlet to go up over the front of the cylinder, and not directly into the side of the cylinder, hope they get it right this time. Flow was restricted on the radiator they worked on, when I cut the outlet off there was enough weld on the inside to reduce flow by quite a bit. Should have my other hose for pump return today from Napa. Need to trim the hoses that go from cylinder to rads, such a weird fit, but if I cut it at cylinder side a half inch, it should clear better.

Working on extending wires for the ignition. Should have that done in a day or two once I get some new connectors.

Looking into .62 springs for the front end. Do I need to swap the oil or do a seal rebuild or anything in the process?

Also one last thing to do is figure out this clutch. If any 500 owners have any input it would help. I replaced the basket with a hinson, and put new friction plates in, as well as a new clutch throw out bearing. Also replaced the clutch actuator arm. But it doesn't engage till about a half inch or less away from the arm hitting the top inlet for the cable. Really not sure what to do there.

Ordered a ton of other misc parts, and some two stroke oil. Waiting on an engine mounting bolt as well. I'm using the 1988 straight kick starter, once I replace the dust seal and get the ball and spring back in it, it shouldn't hit anything that I can tell.

Modifying the tank tonight, wish me luck on that one.
 

summitboy

Well-known member
Premium Member
Nov 26, 2007
2,146
851
113
Your gonna need a heater on that son ! LOL. That is Ron Mccords Pulse setup. Works very good. Something is not right with the clutch setup. Is the Hinson basket for the 500 specifically ? Kinda strange you have that kinda play in there. Is the rod stock length ? Have all the right amount of frictions and steels ? What happens if u try the old actuactor ?
 
Last edited:

wwillf01

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Aug 12, 2012
2,790
616
113
44
Heber Ut
Looking good x2 on the carb heater it's a must.... I personally like to have a valve to turn it on and off also I have .52 or .58 can't remember in the front and for me that's pretty stiff


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
S
Feb 15, 2015
381
91
28
CO, western slope
Your gonna need a heater on that son ! LOL. That is Ron Mccords Pulse setup. Works very good. Something is not right with the clutch setup. Is the Hinson basket for the 500 specifically ? Kinda strange you have that kinda play in there. Is the rod stock length ? Have all the right amount of frictions and steels ? What happens if u try the old actuactor ?

Yeah, basket was ordered through LA sleeve, at least I thought, it seemed to fit just right. Rod I thought was stock, only thing I could think is the ball on the end of rod could be missing I dunno. The old actuator had the same problem, and had signs of wear so I thought the new one would fix it. I am going to crack it up open next week probably, I mean I didn't replace the steels, maybe I need to. I thought the clutch worked with the old basket, but the old basket was hammered with grooves, and it was having some issues when running last I had checked years ago. I'm kinda lost on this one, but I need to give it another look.

Looking good x2 on the carb heater it's a must.... I personally like to have a valve to turn it on and off also I have .52 or .58 can't remember in the front and for me that's pretty stiff


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I ordered .62 springs from Toby today. Will probably be a bit stiff, but I might be heavier next winter, depending on how things go.
I was thinking about an avid heater, get the thermostat as well and carb heat covered. Not much room between head and tank though, and would need to run one hose out of the head, which I'm not too keen on, but open to different ideas. I saw that with the manual switch, and there's reasons why I could see that being really nice.
 

wwillf01

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Aug 12, 2012
2,790
616
113
44
Heber Ut
Don't know for me never had an issue keeping the temps up I have tried both ways and deleted the stat... Now I am going tunnel cooler and putting the stat back so I can stay cooler and not worry..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

summitboy

Well-known member
Premium Member
Nov 26, 2007
2,146
851
113
Ball ? The rod is solid. What about the plate ? Stock ? Something isnt correct.
 
S
Feb 15, 2015
381
91
28
CO, western slope
Don't know for me never had an issue keeping the temps up I have tried both ways and deleted the stat... Now I am going tunnel cooler and putting the stat back so I can stay cooler and not worry..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I would think tunnel cooler would be ideal.

Ball ? The rod is solid. What about the plate ? Stock ? Something isnt correct.

Yeah, dunno what though. At the end of the rod is a steel ball, that goes inside the cap, right side of bike. I'll take it apart probably next week when I make some extra time. I'm looking at the schematic, which I did originally when assembling, will have to compare the two, but nothing is sticking out as different from memory.

I did the tank modification last night. Used a heat gun and used a bent bar to apply pressure and shape it. Have just the right amount of clearance barely. Will post pics, seems to be about as good as it gets.
 

summitboy

Well-known member
Premium Member
Nov 26, 2007
2,146
851
113
I dont see this ball u speak of ? Should be lever to rod to thrust bearing.
 

summitboy

Well-known member
Premium Member
Nov 26, 2007
2,146
851
113
What year is this motor ? Must be a older one if it has the ball. Basket is the same though. Not sure whats going on with yours. I run Millars 250 clutch setup with Barnett baskets and plate.
 
Last edited:
P
Oct 22, 2014
12
0
1
tunnel cooler?

I have a kx500 and never heard anything about running a tunnel cooler...the thing is buried in snow all the time why would it need additional cooling...im running a thermostat to keep it warm!
 

wwillf01

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Aug 12, 2012
2,790
616
113
44
Heber Ut
I have a kx500 and never heard anything about running a tunnel cooler...the thing is buried in snow all the time why would it need additional cooling...im running a thermostat to keep it warm!


Ya a few people do.... 75 percent of the season I have an issue going from the 90s to the 250s... The tunnel coolers just stabilize the temps with a thermostat .... But I live in Ut so the temps are more mild than a lot of places


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Premium Features