09 m8 ****e the bed:((

Cedarberry · Jan 15, 2017

Picked up a 09 m8 sno pro the other day, blipped around the yard when I got it home, parked, pulled the cat stickers off nd went to restart, nothing, headlight don't light, nothing on the gauges, tried gas in cylinder and no pop, and no spark.

Just need a starting point, thanks

Sledbrain2 · Jan 15, 2017

Un-hook the wires coming from the stator, use a volt meter see if you have voltage there two yellow and one brown is lighting coil, The ground is right below throttle body on mag side, on my 09 m1000 that was broken, but the sled ran fine with out it being attached, go figure. I had a stator just fail like you describe, not saying that your issue.

Cedarberry · Jan 15, 2017

Sledbrain2 said:
Un-hook the wires coming from the stator, use a volt meter see if you have voltage there two yellow and one brown is lighting coil, The ground is right below throttle body on mag side, on my 09 m1000 that was broken, but the sled ran fine with out it being attached, go figure. I had a stator just fail like you describe, not saying that your issue.

Thanks for checking in, been hunting info online, and that's seems the best place to start.

Cedarberry · Jan 16, 2017

Picked up a multi meter this am, old one was no good.

Appears the wires comming out of the stator go into a larger harness that runs up to the nose by the ECU.

I see two yellow wires there.

Cedarberry · Jan 16, 2017

Are these the stator wires, or I'm totally off?

Sledbrain2 · Jan 16, 2017

yep, those are it, the large flat connecter with 2 yellow and one brown is from the lighting coil, the others are ignition, fuel pump, ect, You can get a repair manual on line for specs. I would just see if you have voltage coming out of the lighting coil when you pull the rope.

Sledbrain2 · Jan 16, 2017

you can also do a google search, should be able to get a archive threads on similar issue (on snowest forums) You need the ohm and voltage output from coil for each circuit, the wires are all color coded so once you have that info it's pretty straight forward, Pull plugs so its easier to turn over engine. I also make a couple leads with alligator clips especially if you are by yourself trying to pull and read voltmeter. The lighting coil should have very little resistance, I think is .11(ohm) +- 20%, when I tested mine it barley registered on my ohm meter, my stator on my 09 m1000 is good. You should have volts coming from lighting coil. You will need to get the spec on lighting coil output from pulling the starter rope, I do not have that number. I guessing you should see 10 or more.

Cedarberry · Jan 16, 2017

So on both the yellow wires I have zero voltage when turning over the machine. Used the ground under the throttle body.

Neither yellow wire shows anything for ohms to ground.

So looks like stator is bad.

While changing the stator I'm going to swap the pick up as well while in there.

Sledbrain2 · Jan 16, 2017

Cedarberry said:
Ton both the yellow wires I have zero voltage when turning over the machine. Used the ground under the throttle body.

Neither yellow wire shows anything for ohms to ground.

So looks like stator is bad.

While changing the stator I'm going to swap the pick up as well while in there.

That is not necessarily true, I did not make it clear in my above post, mine barley read any resistance with an ohm meter. You need to see if you have any volts coming from the coil as you pull the cord. From my experience getting voltage output is about the only way to know if the stator is your issue, most times they will check out fine with an ohm test.

Cedarberry · Jan 16, 2017

I checked voltage on both the yellow wires, while pulling the cord, and read zero on both.

That's not right?

Cedarberry · Jan 16, 2017

I'm down to the flywheel bolt and that mofo is on there.

Sledbrain2 · Jan 16, 2017

Yep, I would say so,

Pulling the stator, On my 1000 I had to take the throttle body out of the boots in order to clear the oil bottle, hopefully the m8 has more clearance than m 10, If not you will need to remove oil lever, should have enough play in coolant lines and throttle cable to just move it to the side, the intake boot is a pita, take a channel lock and pull on the bottom of boot, should come out with a couple tugs,

taking the flywheel off, you can get a steering wheel puller that will line up with the bolts on the flywheel, however I have never been able to remove a cat flywheel with this kind of puller. I made my own out of 3/8 plate steel. Use the recoil as a templet to drill your 3 holes, the steel has to be 7" x 4" approx. Do not remove the outer housing until the fly wheel is removed. You span the housing with the plate steel. You will need to go to ace or any hardware that has metric bolts by the piece, get a couple different lengths and washers, I think 1 1/2 to 2 inch will get it, also get several washers to shim if you have too long of bolts. Place the metric bolts into the flywheel 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch where they are tight, start going around the circle 1/4 turn a time until it pops which usually is not long. So you are bracing against the outer housing rather than pulling off the center bolt, I know this sounds *** backwards but it works and will not damage the flywheel.

Cedarberry · Jan 16, 2017

^^^thanks for the help, much appreciated. I got the flywheel off, little confused now, as the hole the wires come thru dont appear large enough to get the connectors thru to remove the stator.

Have to get a look at a breakdown of the case and see if it co es apart there, does not look like it, lol

Sledbrain2 · Jan 16, 2017

Cedarberry said:
^^^thanks for the help, much appreciated. I got the flywheel off, little confused now, as the hole the wires come thru dont appear large enough to get the connectors thru to remove the stator.

Have to get a look at a breakdown of the case and see if it co es apart there, does not look like it, lol

There is a allen bolt holding the wires, probably have to remove the 2 allen bolts holding the crank sensor as well, there is a rubber grommet (rectangle) where the wires come through, easy taking out pita putting back in place, I would take a pic so you put it back the same way.

Cedarberry · Jan 16, 2017

Ok, I see the squares, thought they were aluminum, lol.

Prolly gonna have to remove the oil tank to get those wires out and those rubber squares, just no room for my dick beaters in there.

Cedarberry · Jan 16, 2017

I'm done for the day, what a pita this job is, almost worth letting the shop do it.

To get the oil tank out, I have to remove the throttle bodies, and that looks like chore as well. To pull the throttle bodies off I have to remove the Y pipe, which absolutly nothing fits the bottom inside nuts.

One of the bolts on the oil tank was seized in the insert in the plastic, had to grind that one off.

Learning how everything comes apart, hope all goes back together the way it came out, lol.

TheOnlyBFC · Jan 16, 2017

Cedarberry said:
I'm done for the day, what a pita this job is, almost worth letting the shop do it.

To get the oil tank out, I have to remove the throttle bodies, and that looks like chore as well. To pull the throttle bodies off I have to remove the Y pipe, which absolutly nothing fits the bottom inside nuts.

One of the bolts on the oil tank was seized in the insert in the plastic, had to grind that one off.

Learning how everything comes apart, hope all goes back together the way it came out, lol.

Use a box end wrench from the top side to get the y pipe bottom inside nuts.

Cedarberry · Jan 17, 2017

Do the pick ups last, or somethin that gets swapped often. They look good, is there a test for those as well. Thought I'd replace um just cause I was in there. But funds for this pig are getting low, looks like I will need a new secondary or a rebuild, when the sleeves are pressed together to remove belt, it would nt pop back out, it's stuck in.

Sledbrain2 · Jan 17, 2017

Cedarberry said:
Do the pick ups last, or somethin that gets swapped often. They look good, is there a test for those as well. Thought I'd replace um just cause I was in there. But funds for this pig are getting low, looks like I will need a new secondary or a rebuild, when the sleeves are pressed together to remove belt, it would nt pop back out, it's stuck in.

Yes, you can ohm test them 185 +- 20%, RM has them for 30.00 I believe,

Cedarberry · Jan 18, 2017

Sledbrain2 said:
Yes, you can ohm test them 185 +- 20%, RM has them for 30.00 I believe,

Checked out RMSTATOR site and seems like all the pick ups fit the 09 m8.

Some are 29.00 others 34.00, are the pickups the same throughout all the years listed, I don't see one that is specifically for a m8.

Example: they list one for a MC800 and shows it fits 09 m8. Just wanna insure I get the right ones.

09 m8 ****e the bed:((

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