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m8 clutch alignment

S
Oct 26, 2011
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0
6
36
Kaslo, BC
ive been trying to find clutch alignment procedure and which bar is correct tool to use with no luck.
i have 2009 m8 hcr. just bought new secondary 10.4 inch
do i need a alignment tool or can i measure with a straight edge

i saw one post that to get belt alignment i could just loosen off retaining bolt and let the secondary float on the shaft and run sled on a stand then measure where the secondary is sitting and shim to that.

would really appreciate some advice. ate alot of belts last year
 

Polarisrocks

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Sep 22, 2002
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Eastern Wa
My best luck has been if the the belt is pulling strings on the outside, move the secondary in 0.030 at a time till it quits pulling strings, or vise versa if its pulling them on the inside move it out. Also set your belt deflection as tight as possible. How much belt o sheeve clearance do you have? New belt and one with a few rides. You might want to try the ABC clutch bolt that helps set that closer if you are over 0.020
Also change all your mounts to Green dot ones..
 

M-Head

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Jan 27, 2010
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Yakima, WA
Get a 1.507 offset clutch alignment tool. Don't know the AC Part number. Arctic Cat originally called for a different offset for the m8, but the 1.507 was found to work much better--better belt life. If I remember right, you may have to mill .120 off the inside of your secondary--the part that slides over the spliced shaft, otherwise your secondary will hit the diamond drive case. Seems like a hassle, but it works. Also, get a torque stop that they use on the m7's. That helps a bunch.
 

skidooboy

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Nov 26, 2007
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does anyone know, EXACTLY how much to relieve the back of the secondary spline contacts to get to the 1.507 offset? want to get this right, and don't want to take too much off, or not enough off. Ski
 

Thunder101

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Feb 7, 2008
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It's the hub you need to trim and it's not much 3/16 would be lots. Remove all shins and check if your hub runs on the DD. The 1.5 bar is close
 

skidooboy

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central lower michigan
ok so, in this very thread, we have two different suggestions on what to relieve material from....

do we need to remove material from the hub the secondary sheeves ride on, and how much?

or do we need to remove material from the inner shaft tube of the secondary, that rides on the splined portion of the upper DD output gear? and how much?

or should we remove material from both, and again. how much? Ski
 

Thunder101

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Feb 7, 2008
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For starters there is Variance it all M machines. I found when I removed all shims from behind the secondary the hub rubbed on the DD. I had 1/8 trimmed off.
Not all machines need this. It's like the engine plate and mounts some are just a bit out.
Start with getting the alignment bar and see if you end up with zero shims and if you do just make sure your secondary hub is not grinding into the DD. If some guys have to remove material where the splines are,,,, well that sucks but have read on here of guys doing it.
 
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