Zbroz Racing Product Release (Kiss coupler For Pro RMK)

AKFULLTHROTTLE · Jan 7, 2015

Never mind on the coupling question

Simply turn the blocks to a new position to go from no coupling (Stock) to the available positions.

Our moto for this item (Keep It Simple Stupid) give you the option of having some or no coupling with a simple adjustment.
All parts and hardware included for installation.

Iceman56 · Feb 4, 2015

Has anyone installed one of these yet?? The instruction say to measure 2.20" from center of pivot arm bolt to edge of coupling block and drill a hole in the rail where the front hole is on the coupling block and the back hole there is no need to drill cause there is slot in the rail.

On my sled and the other two Pro's I checked when I measure that far back there really is no hole to be drilled at all, the front hole on the coupling block is only about 1/4 covered up by the rail the rest is a open slot. I guess I am worried without a hole drilled and bolt through it what keeps the block from sliding back in the slot?

I called Zbroz got a hold of a salesmen that didn't seem to know much about it but he told me on the Cats there is no hole drilled and and that they don't move much???

Anyone else's the same way? Since the placement of the block is obviously crucial to how it operates I just have a hard time believing that the repeated banging the pivot arm does on the coupling block that its not gonna gradually start moving back? Guess its not a huge deal just have to measure it and reset it if it does.

Zbroz Racing · Feb 4, 2015

Kiss block system

The location is important but with the option of three positions you just need to be within 1/8" but not any closer than the instructions state from the pivot bolt. Also it doesn't move even with no holes drilled the clamping effect and when the block gets pushed on it actually forces it at an angle which in a way acts like a Chinese handcuff and locks it in place. We have lots of them on cats and vipers with no holes drilled and they don't move. Slap it on and go ride you'll be impressed with the simplicity of the adjustment and how effective it is.

Great questions guys have a good February. Let it snow!!

AKFULLTHROTTLE · Feb 4, 2015

Bomber rails????

Zbroz Racing · Feb 4, 2015

Kiss coupler

Yes they will fit bomber rails

Iceman56 · Feb 4, 2015

Zbroz Racing said:
The location is important but with the option of three positions you just need to be within 1/8" but not any closer than the instructions state from the pivot bolt. Also it doesn't move even with no holes drilled the clamping effect and when the block gets pushed on it actually forces it at an angle which in a way acts like a Chinese handcuff and locks it in place. We have lots of them on cats and vipers with no holes drilled and they don't move. Slap it on and go ride you'll be impressed with the simplicity of the adjustment and how effective it is.

Great questions guys have a good February. Let it snow!!

Great thanks for the response gives me a piece of mind... Its a very nice simple piece, fits great and looks great hope it performs the same, gonna try it out next week

IceAge Performance · Feb 4, 2015

Zbroz beat us too it.

This will work with any stock skid equipped with our standard or bomber rails kits.

Due to the swap to a cross shaft instead of the stopper bracket it is compatable with skids equiped with our pro-motion but will require slight relocation of where the cross shaft is placed.

Props to z-broz on another fine product. And as always, call and ask before trying to mix and match various mod parts!

Happy sledding

wellfed777 · Feb 4, 2015

hows about somw reveiws :face-icon-small-hap
tanks

bring the snow

Iceman56 · Feb 5, 2015

wellfed777 said:
hows about somw reveiws :face-icon-small-hap
tanks

bring the snow

It works awesome in my shop, turn the block and you can really tell the difference, haven't got it to wheelie yet:face-icon-small-win

Hopefully next week i'll get to try it

acutah · Feb 8, 2015

I have a couple rides on mine so far. Works great and is well worth the price of admission, but I do have a couple concerns:
1. The plastic blocks are extremely hard to rotate.
2. The blocks have a tendency to work themselves to the outside edge, and once they do it would appear that it might not couple as its supposed to. It seems to me that there needs to be a spacer added to the outside to keep the blocks centered so that the can contact the scissor.

Anybody else noticed this or have any suggestions?

Iceman56 · Feb 9, 2015

acutah said:
I have a couple rides on mine so far. Works great and is well worth the price of admission, but I do have a couple concerns:
1. The plastic blocks are extremely hard to rotate.
2. The blocks have a tendency to work themselves to the outside edge, and once they do it would appear that it might not couple as its supposed to. It seems to me that there needs to be a spacer added to the outside to keep the blocks centered so that the can contact the scissor.

Anybody else noticed this or have any suggestions?

That is definitely my thought when I looked at it but could be wrong. My blocks look like they are spaced to far apart and are barely gonna catch the scissor arm but maybe it doesn't matter.... And yes they are a bit hard to turn guessing with ice and snow build up gonna be even harder.

acutah · Feb 10, 2015

I rode Sunday with another Pro and it has the same issues I'm talking about. I haven't called Zbroz yet; was hoping they would chime in here.

Zbroz Racing · Feb 11, 2015

Kiss coupler

I just saw this thread and the kits should have come with a plastic spacer that goes on the outside of the black blocks? If any of you guys out there have kits without these plastic spacers please call us and we will ship you the spacers. FYI if you want to build your own it is just a piece of 3/4" PVC cut off to fill that space but have about 1/16" space so the block can still be twisted.

On the block being stiff we are going with about a 4 thousands crush on these and some are tighter than others but we find them easier to turn once the sled is in the snow and the cross shaft is frozen or cold from the snow so once on the snow they should turn pretty easily. If they are too stiff you can always loosen the nuts that hold the cross shaft to the side plates and twist the whole shaft.

Thanks for the posts and always let us know if you have any questions?

Iceman56 · Feb 13, 2015

Well got to try the coupler out one day... First I had it in the lowest setting, not sure if its even suppose to couple in this setting but when I looked at it I could tell the scissor arm was making contact with the blocks... Like I had stated before though it was very clear where the scissor arm was making contact with the block and it was only hitting about 10% of the inside of the block, like I said they are spaced too far apart.

I pulled a steep hill then got off and turn blocks on 4th setting to see the difference, I couldn't tell much difference. Got off and looked and both blocks pushed out of there slots all the way to outside of shaft they sit on:face-icon-small-con WTH! Just shook my head and left it the rest of the day, nothing I could do they were obviously just gonna push out again.

Zbroz I never got this spacer your talking about, do you have a picture with one on the shaft, I don't understand where it goes or how its gonna hold the blocks form moving. Also could it be my shaft is not right? I honestly don't think my blocks are close enough together to ever get good enough contact on the scissor arm.

Zbroz Racing · Feb 13, 2015

Pro coupler

PM'd you
Yes everyone who has these there should be a piece of tube. (Plastic PVC) over the ends between the black block and the end plates stopping the blocks from sliding inward. Of course they cannot go in because there is a machined step which locates them. They are a press fit to that point and then the plastic spacer tube which is larger on the ID than the shaft and is roughly 3/4" long keeps the blocks in place. If you do not have white plastic tubes on the outside of the black blocks please call and we will ship you these ASAP.
435 753 7774

Iceman56 said:
Well got to try the coupler out one day... First I had it in the lowest setting, not sure if its even suppose to couple in this setting but when I looked at it I could tell the scissor arm was making contact with the blocks... Like I had stated before though it was very clear where the scissor arm was making contact with the block and it was only hitting about 10% of the inside of the block, like I said they are spaced too far apart.

I pulled a steep hill then got off and turn blocks on 4th setting to see the difference, I couldn't tell much difference. Got off and looked and both blocks pushed out of there slots all the way to outside of shaft they sit on:face-icon-small-con WTH! Just shook my head and left it the rest of the day, nothing I could do they were obviously just gonna push out again.

Zbroz I never got this spacer your talking about, do you have a picture with one on the shaft, I don't understand where it goes or how its gonna hold the blocks form moving. Also could it be my shaft is not right? I honestly don't think my blocks are close enough together to ever get good enough contact on the scissor arm.

acutah · Feb 13, 2015

Just got mine in the mail today. Looks like a simple fix. Thx Zbroz!

For the money this will be about the best thing you can do to a boosted sled.

wellfed777 · Feb 14, 2015

actuah

so you saying it works good ? how did the range feel stock - coupled ?

thanks

acutah · Feb 14, 2015

Absolutely it works. The problem I had is that it would only work for a bit then the plastic coupling blocks would slide over. With these pvc rings it will keep them in place and it should be great.
The lightest setting will still couple the suspension. If I installed it over again I would recommend moving it back a bit so the lowest setting didn't couple at all, but that's just me. I guess if you want to slay the nastiest chutes you would want the max setting to work the max possible.

Iceman56 · Feb 22, 2015

Well cut some PVC pipe and made some spacers to keeps blocks in place like ZBroz said and got a chance to try it out yesterday, the blocks stayed in place now like they're suppose to.

Now for how it performed. I would say this little setup performed way beyond my expectations, this reall seems to be the ticket for me I only had it in setting 2 all day and it seemed like plenty. Was still just as playful it just kept the front down where it needed to be and most of all kept it from doing that super trench out where you really have to run the throttle to get it to come out of it and back up on the snow. Now I just keep it pinned and it just settles itselft back down and you don't loose any speed or momentum like before...

So far awesome product and by far best bang for buck to put on a turbo. This and a good rear shock and you have a awesome setup.

Vohk Boondocker IC Tial turbo at 10psi

Iceman56 · Feb 27, 2015

So is anyone else having a problem with bending the angle iron on the scissor arm that the blocks make contact with? They are not very strong pieces I can bend them back with a pliar. The problem that I see is that the blocks are only making contact with the outside edge of the irons making it easy to bend them, like I said before the blocks need to be in about an inch further each so they make contact with the whole scissor arm instead of just the outside edge of the angle iron piece.

I think iam gonna take my shaft to a machine shop and have it machined in further so the blocks can go in further and then re cut some PVC pieces to keep them in.

Zbroz Racing Product Release (Kiss coupler For Pro RMK)

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