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Engine running temps - Ignition retarded

Dartos

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In my 2005 Deep Snow Service Manual it states on page 13.24 that the timing retard initiates if the temperature is over 176 degrees and a throttle is 80% - 100%. For more severe conditions the engine fail-safe is turned on at high TPS inputs and high temps.

Does this exist on the 2011-2012 800 RMK?

I understand the ECU for the 800 RMK was changed in 2013. For those with a service manual is there an explanation in that manual, similar to what I have in my old 900 manual, on the temperature - ignition retard?

I have read on SnoWest varying descriptions and temperatures at when ignition retard takes place but have not seen it in black and white, written out.
 

Dartos

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I took a look in the Owners Manual. All it has is if the Light comes on STEADY to slow down and cool engine. If it starts FLASHING stop engine immediately. No reference to actual temperature.
 

bryceraisanen

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Ive heard 127 degrees tossed around... but dont have evidence myself....

28 dollar upgrade thread... long read good info. Maybe u already read it not sure
 
G

geo

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Read the generic shop manual back and forth a couple of years back Not a lot of specifics on this question or others in regards to engine safe guards or even normal running parameters (ie. exh valve opening signal which is variable).
Because the ECU only gets a few signals in this simple system it should be easy to write it up these parameters in a short chart. I've just never found it.

What I do known is on my '13, with a after market head-pipe (2 different configurations over the years), some ECU triggered event causes a power loss around 130 degrees when at full load. It's relatively quick over a few degrees of ECT and the plugs show a lot of ignition timing has been removed.
If a plug chop is done just prior to this event (ie. 125 ish ECT) , there appears to be excessive ignition advance. Trouble is the plugs would look very similar if the engine was approaching a det threshold too.

Initially I thought this event was ECT triggered (and it may be) but after a few seasons of observing basically, I'm just not sure. What I do know is the 28 dollar fix helps keep this event under control because it runs cooler therefore more room to absorb quick temp rises in the head.
As I've upped the power I've learned to use the rate of rise in ECT as a tuning tool on these Poo 800's. If your at part throttle or full throttle and your ECT's rise quickly (normal snow on the tunnel riding) you need to help the combustion chamber temps with some fuel and my Poo has always liked a bit too much but it pays off for me with more consistent running and the 130 degree threshold has become a bit more vague.
One thing I'd like is more coolant flow through this engine. Many times my coolers are doing there part but what exits the engine is too hot.

If I had a VIPEC (hint, hint) I would have posted this info by now. It would take a lot of data logging overlayed and therefore some work. But I don't lol.
 

Dartos

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That sounds like you have air moving through the system or perhaps the thermostat is not quite working properly.
 

snosfun

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I have had a 11, 12, and 14 pro and my 14 runs hotter than my older ones. I don't know why.

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