2013 RMK - Things to look for

Jeff C · Jul 23, 2014

I am in the final stages of getting a 2013 RMK 800.

I am going to test compression and overall condition of the sled before pulling the trigger on it.

$7,000 and has 550 miles on it. I think I am doing pretty good here. What do you think on the price?

Also, I know certain updates were offered by Polaris for that year. What were they?

Anything else I should look at on this sled?

Snowmow · Jul 23, 2014

Good price

Cast glued on piece that steering post bolts too for cracks, footwell area of tunnel for crinkles in tunnel, rear tunnel for bends. oil pump turned up?

tdblakes · Jul 23, 2014

X2 what snowmow said...

also check that it has the collar on the drive shaft and ask about blown QD belts. Polaris updated the belt in 14, so if it has an original 13 QD belt, might be worth buying a 14 belt for the spare...

LoudHandle · Jul 23, 2014

In addition to items already mentioned;

Check the clutch side driveshaft bearing stub, a lot of them were not a press fit and the stub wears very quickly if it was under a press fit to start with. I've seen it 1/16th undersized in less than 500 miles. Also check the QD side Jackshaft bearing for play. If it does not have a clamp load on it, the Jackshaft spins inside the inner race of the bearing. This causes a groove to wear in the jack shaft and will lead to QD problems as well as brake noise and drive belt issues due to misalignment.

kanedog · Jul 23, 2014

Look for belt dust behind the secondary and belt dust on places the seller may not have cleaned. This will tell you of clutch and belt issues. There may a little bit but for 550 miles it should be minimum.
If you plan on blowing belts and having clutch heat then you won't be diassapointed. There are very few 13 pros I have seen that don't have the heat/belt/clutch issues.
It can be fixed but it takes some time and research and dedication.
Yes, tunnel krinkleage at footwells and behind the secondary clutch. Take the secondary off and have a look at the back of it in the fins for dust and also on the tunnel below the secondary for krinkleage.

boondocker97 · Jul 23, 2014

Check lower front a-arms where the tube goes into the cast piece for signs of play. Some of these came loose and separated (often at inopportune times). If it still has a '13 quickdrive belt replace it with a '14 belt regardless. One of my friends had his strip at the top of a hill and the only thing to stop it at the bottom was a tree.

6Mile · Jul 24, 2014

Assuming that it is as you state a 2013 RMK, you can ignore all the QD stuff. Just give it a compression test, and if you are really anal pull the pipe and look at the ring lands. you should be able to see how wore they are. Check the Chain case for lube and if it is clean. My SBA came low from the factory and the prepping dealer did not check that.

TRS · Jul 24, 2014

Take it to the dealer and pay the tuition to have the Digital Wrench hooked up to guarantee the hours and mileage. It will also give you recorded trouble code history if not cleared. Dealer can also run the serial number to see what warranty work has been done.

Snowmow · Jul 24, 2014

TRS said:
Take it to the dealer and pay the tuition to have the Digital Wrench hooked up to guarantee the hours and mileage. It will also give you recorded trouble code history if not cleared. Dealer can also run the serial number to see what warranty work has been done.

Best advice so far

Knew a guy that bought a pro "low millage" with warranty left...... Lost a piston,took it to dealer to be warrantied and they hooked it up to the computer. The ECM had logged over 2000 miles but the odo only read 800. No warranty for him.

diamonddave · Jul 24, 2014

6Mile said:
Assuming that it is as you state a 2013 RMK, you can ignore all the QD stuff. Just give it a compression test, and if you are really anal pull the pipe and look at the ring lands. you should be able to see how wore they are. Check the Chain case for lube and if it is clean. My SBA came low from the factory and the prepping dealer did not check that.

Good catch!! No QD on an RMK.

And the 2013 RMK doesn't have glued a-arms. Another thing to not worry about.

That's a damn good price....

05900 · Jul 24, 2014

Check it over as usual and ride it like you stole it cuz...ya did!

tuneman · Jul 25, 2014

Don't turn up the oiler just yet and get an oil breather line or modified cap from Paaso Racing. I picked up a 2013 SBA with 600 miles for $8k OTD about a month ago. Also in Minnesota. So, sounds like that's a good price to me, if you're buying from a private seller.

Jeff C · Jul 25, 2014

Thanks for all the replies guys.

I swore off Polaris since 1995 and vowed to never own another. Well, its been almost 20 years and things have changed.

It seems as this is a pretty good price. But it IS summer, and the guy needs cash to keep his powerstroke going (His words not mine).

I'll give it a good looking over, keeping in mind what you guys gave for advice.

Yep, it is NOT a pro, it has a chaincase.

THe nice thing about this situation, is he is meeting me 1/2 way on the driving, so if it is all tweaked out, I just walk or get him to lower the price.

If it is as advertised, I will pick it up.

Oh, what should the compression range look like?

I have always warmed the engine up before checking. I assume that is still the way to do it here...........??

Leftys · Jul 25, 2014

130 to 150 p.s.i. is a sign of good sealing rings and piston +/- 5%. A compression test should be done at ambient air temp. Not warmed up. If the engine is warmed up the metals will expand exaggerating the numbers. The main reason you do at ambient air temp is: An engine needs cranking compression to start when it is cold. That first cold start is where the cranking compression number matters most. If the engine is cold or at ambient air temp nothing will be expanded and you will get the number you are looking for. I hope I explained that in a understanding way.
FYI: When checking cranking compression always have the throttle wide open to get the maximum amount of air charge into the cylinder for a proper reading. Make sure the ignition is off or have both spark plug caps off or plugs removed.

kanedog · Jul 26, 2014

I don't think that 130-150-lbs compression on a newer 800 polaris is possible. Just my experience.
105-120 max.

tuneman · Jul 28, 2014

Jeff, compression should be 120psi +/- a couple psi. Always check compression with a cold engine (do compression first before you even pull it over for the first time). It's most important that the pressure is the same between both cylinders. Make certain key and/or kill switch are off and hold the throttle wide open.

6Mile · Jul 28, 2014

My 800 had 125psi on the average craftsman tester that I have when new. After about 1100 miles this season I tested again and the guage read the same 125psi. Note that this was taken in MN in my garage, which is somewhere near 990ft above sea level.

Leftys · Jul 28, 2014

The 130 -150 +/- 5% is a general rule easy to go by on most engines (2 cycle and 4 cycle). It also depends on what head is installed on the engine, that can play a factor with the numbers. 130 psi - 5% = 123.5

Snowmow · Jul 28, 2014

What's the cost for the passo cap?

Jeff C · Jul 29, 2014

Snowmow said:
What's the cost for the passo cap?

What is that?

2013 RMK - Things to look for

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