Have you ever pulled a plug after a pull? Or looked at your wash on your pistons?
Top of hill bogging down...HELP!!!!
- Thread starter Rmk_RDR
- Start date
D
Spark plugs, piston wash or the can he's running won't cause his sled to hit the rev limiter. Focus on one thing at a time which IMO clutching.
DPG
DPG
Have you read the "$28 upgrade" thread?
Bingo, I would bet money this is the issue.
T
X 2 I put my money here as well ...
I
Have you tried a new belt and checked the motor mounts to make sure the clutches are keeping proper alignment?
DPG,
How can the can not have any effecting on it bogging? Hitting the rev limiter is because he took out weight from weights. The heart soaking caused by certain cans can cause bogging of a sled.
Checking the plugs after pulling a hill will tell you in your running lean or rich, if you are running lean you can change your helix to the lower final cut number, if you have a dual cut helix, and that will cause less load on the motor. In turn letting the motor run a little bit richer. And checking the wash is even more accurate than checking the plugs. To lean, and the sled will bog just like if it was running rich. I personally have seen clutch setups that run to much load on the bottom end and the sled has a slight bog at the bottom end and a majority of the time it's a lean bog. Where the stock map isnt sert up for the load Thats needed to engage the clutches.
I agree starting at ground zero and building from there. Meaning can the can off get the clutching set up where he wants it with a stock can and then add the back on the can and see if it runs or doesn't. And can won't give you that much performance that your would need to do major clutching again. The most I have ever seen is. +\- 200 rpms buy adding a can.
Rmk rdr are you running any kind a fuel box or trying to get all of this done off of but the stock mapping?
How can the can not have any effecting on it bogging? Hitting the rev limiter is because he took out weight from weights. The heart soaking caused by certain cans can cause bogging of a sled.
Checking the plugs after pulling a hill will tell you in your running lean or rich, if you are running lean you can change your helix to the lower final cut number, if you have a dual cut helix, and that will cause less load on the motor. In turn letting the motor run a little bit richer. And checking the wash is even more accurate than checking the plugs. To lean, and the sled will bog just like if it was running rich. I personally have seen clutch setups that run to much load on the bottom end and the sled has a slight bog at the bottom end and a majority of the time it's a lean bog. Where the stock map isnt sert up for the load Thats needed to engage the clutches.
I agree starting at ground zero and building from there. Meaning can the can off get the clutching set up where he wants it with a stock can and then add the back on the can and see if it runs or doesn't. And can won't give you that much performance that your would need to do major clutching again. The most I have ever seen is. +\- 200 rpms buy adding a can.
Rmk rdr are you running any kind a fuel box or trying to get all of this done off of but the stock mapping?
R
I hit DET 1 time last year on the second day of my first trip so I started adding race fuel I think I will try adding 1 gallon to every full tank this year and I'm gonna start with that then try my stock can. If that doesn't do it my plan is to get a different helix and secondary spring and either way I'm gonna put slp slippery buttons in for the heck of it. But yes I usually change plugs every 3 days for the heck of it running ngk.
R
No I have not something I will look at thanks!
D
It could also be something as simple as cleaning your clutches. Dirty clutches rob HP many folks get into the routine of cleaning the clutches every 2nd or 3rd ride.
DPG
R
I don't have a fuel controller I'm doing this all with stock mapping. I've heard something's about a fuel controller and 10% more on the top end can take away the bogging...
R
What's the best way to clean them? Just take them apart and spray em down with brake clean?? I have not cleaned them yet ha
I'm gonna say no way its the can. I have the same can on my 13 pro, rkt drop in and low comp heads w/boondocker box, i ride cooke city and this year we rode at Burandts in CO i pull three grams heavier, and pull 8400 all day long!
I also run rooster weights, cooke city i run 5.2 in the heel and 1.6 in the tip, for 62.8 so not 3 over but prolly could add a little to pull 8300 (little safer)
Start heavy on the race fuel and take away. Better to have to much then not enough? Not enough and you will det and that's never good on a motor. Where did you get the heads? Did they not give you a approximate ration for race fuel. I was going to run 13.5 heads on my wife's pro but it was suggested I would need to run a fuel box on it so I decided to keep it stock.
Have you checked your compression?
If someone said you need 10% fuel your are running lean. Best fix buy a box and add fuel. Easy fix take some load of the motor. But then the sled won't pull as hard. And kind of defeats having the head and can. Either way will help. We usually run a black purple spring in the secondary. But that with Polaris weights and stock helix. And stock head. With your adjustable weight (mine are tri city adjustable weights) we run stock secondary spring and stock helix up to 10,000' and can keep the clutches pretty close to the same temp. Some guys run the black purple spring with stock helix. Gives them a little more rpms on longer pulls.
Have you checked your compression?
If someone said you need 10% fuel your are running lean. Best fix buy a box and add fuel. Easy fix take some load of the motor. But then the sled won't pull as hard. And kind of defeats having the head and can. Either way will help. We usually run a black purple spring in the secondary. But that with Polaris weights and stock helix. And stock head. With your adjustable weight (mine are tri city adjustable weights) we run stock secondary spring and stock helix up to 10,000' and can keep the clutches pretty close to the same temp. Some guys run the black purple spring with stock helix. Gives them a little more rpms on longer pulls.
D
Brake cleaner works I also believe Polaris sells clutch cleaning fluid.
By the way on the primary clutch sheave faces do they have belt residue build up on them ? Are the clutch faces inner and outer completely smooth or has clutch primary spring as it squeezes left grooves marks on the clutch faces due to to much squeeze of the belt ?
Also if you look carefully at the primary clutch face you can see how the belt is shifting out at full throttle. If you take a measurement proper full shift out should be approx. 3/4 to 1 inch from the top of the clutch face +/-... I always do a visual to make sure my belt is shifting out properly under load.
DPG
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50:50 is pretty heavy on the gas mix, especially if it is Av gas.
And am I reading that right, you are mixing 10 to 1 oil in premix? If so, HOLY SHIZ, that is WAY too much oil, 10x too much oil if you still have the injection on it.
sled_guy
R
What are you running for weights? I don't have a fuel controller because mines an 11 but if I can't fix the bog after my New Years trip I will be getting a fuel controler! I also rode Cooke all last year snow was awesome
R
That's exactly what I run for weight in my 11 pro rk tek high comp 14.1 but I run 5.2 in heel and 1.6 in belly not tip
R
Ok thanks! I would like to try as much as I can before going to a fuel controller but Kelsey at rk tek told me with high comp 14.1 head I would be ok running 91 octane 8000+ But my first trip out to Cooke I hit DET so that's when I started using race fuel. He also told me to I wouldn't have to do anything to clutching just stock and that didn't work... When I put the kit in last December I had like 150 on both sides if I remember right I know it was good but I haven't checked since then usually I do before every season
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