I think my pro has demons inside!

If I were you I would look at the plugs for the hood, use a small flashlight to look into the plugs for corrosion, it'll be greenish white powder, you could be losing contact on some of the pins, if so, a small welding tip cleaner for a Oxy torch works awesome to clean it up, I also filled every single plug on the sled with Dielectic grease. Hope that helps, and on a second note, the fuel pump could be causing your issue, I ran an aeromotive pump and it just taxed power system to muh, even with another battery hooked up it wouldn't start or my gauges wouldn't functon.... I would bet on corosion in the plugs first.

Check to see how many volts you are getting on the AC plug on the clutch cover. Do this test with headlights plugged in and then with no headlights.
On my sled I would see 6v AC if there was no headlight load , turn on the headlights went right to 12v. I tested this at the clutch cover AC and the steering column AC.
So with no lighting load you may only be getting 6V AC which will only give you 6v DC through that rectifier and not power your stuff.
Which brings things full circle as MH has pointed out the voltage regulator is doing extra work with no lighting load.

I'm a bit confused as to your setup.

Can you tell me Exactly what electrical accessories you have and where you have plugged into?

Also...Have you checked the wad of ground connections at the bumper tab mount... sometimes that is broken or loose and you don't even know it. That will cause major issues.

Can you post pics of all of your work??



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Even though those grounds may look fine, often times the only way you will see a problem is if you loosen the 10mm nut. Then you will find light green corrosion in between each of the ground connectors.

I have gotten to the point where any Pro I work on, I automatically remove that wad of grounds and wire brush the "green' corrosion. It only takes a little to cause an issue from what I have seen.

BTW, what year sled?

Also....You may have a loose connector or wire issue and removing the hood might have disturbed it.

That plug by the headlight can't supply a lot of current. I had a boondocker EBC plugged into that plug and it created issues. To troubleshoot your problem, use a separate battery to supply power to the oil pump and see what happens.

My turbo kit manufacturer runs the oil pump off of the dc connector by the clutch and has for years.

Running anything off of that "DC PWR" connector from the ECU is a poor idea.... I know lots of turbo mfgs use this... doesn't make it a good idea... Plus there is NO fuse on that connector and it draws power from the ECU... Most of those oil pumps will induce "noise" into the system that should be separate from those kinds of loads.

Breeze is right though... lots of people run off that connector without issues... If you are running that connector.... put a properly sized fuse on it for sure... even if the turbo builder does not say anything about it.

So from What I'm gathering...from your posts, your setup is this

1) You have deleted both headlights
2) No load resistor for the headlights is run.
3) You are using the MTNTK 1/2 wave rectifier
4) You have an AFR gauge with heated O2 sensor
5) You are running a turbo with a 12vdc oil pump.
6) Dobeck control box
6) Any other accessories? (fans, gps etc?)

One thing to understand is that, on your 2011 there are two separate voltage regulators... one, on the clutch cover, that runs all of the EFI/engine-managment. The other, on the Overstruture on the right side (muffler side), that runs the headlights and grip heaters and charges the battery. (this is the one that the AC Plug shown in this photo courtesy of Boondockers turbo, 2011 PRO RMK)
NOTE: the 2013+ sleds are different.


This lighting/heating/charging VR is a completely separate system from the engine management system... Separate stator coil, separate VR, separate circuit.... If you are having running issues with your sled and are NOT hooked up to the "DC PWR" white connector NOR the "DC ACCY" connector...Then your running issues are NOT related to any loads plugged into the "AC PWR" connector.

You will keep going through the small VR on the overstructure if you delte your headlights and do not run a load resistor...This will take out your grip heaters and will not give you good power to anything plugged into that "AC PWR" circuit.

The lighting/heating/charging VR is a "shunt style" VR that depends on running as a balanced system.

From Roadstercycle.com... a good description of a "balanced system".

What is a balanced charging system?

A balanced charging system is when the manufacturer designs lets say 25 amp charging system and the bike uses 20 to 22 amps of it to run the bike and charge the battery. The VR only needs to get rid of 3 or so amps, so it is happy. Now if you take that same bike and run led taillights and marker lights and maybe some led headlights now your making the R/R get rid of lets say 10 amps, now its working hard and getting hot. Although it seems like your doing your bike a favor by thinking it's going to charge your battery better your actually slowly killing your R/R. Not to mention if you unplug your headlights for track days. Wow!!!!

Click to expand...

Now... if you are running your Dobeck box from the rectifier off the fused "DC ACC" connector... you are getting "clean power" to that as this is a well stabilized (has the factory capacitor on that circuit) , full wave rectified power source shared by the ECU... So it does not surprise me that your Dobeck box works as it should.

The MTNTK is a smaller 1/2 wave rectifier with no voltage stabilization... you are not getting "clean" power from that to run your accessories. MTNTK designed that rectifier to run their Blowhole product...which is a simple motor load that does not need clean power to function (same thing with the similar unit on the BD intercooler fan).

If you want to draw from the "AC PWR" supply and have everything work well... I highly suggest that you run a complete system with a fuse block, a good quality full-wave rectifier and a good capacitor (or battery) to stabilize the voltage. I put up a diagram of a simple inexpensive setup for this which will give you useable clean-ish power as long as your lighting circuit is loaded properly. With a clean 12-14vdc

Is your AFR tied into the Dobeck (gen 4)??

jerrydecoy said:

So I took my hood off to add some vents and a headlight delete and since my oil pump off my turbo was wired into the dc power port by the clutch I bought an ac/dc rectifier from mtn. Tek so I could move it up to the fused ac power port. I put everything back together and fired up. Display and afr gauge not working and the sled would idle like crap for a few seconds then die. Checked all my connections and finally the display came on along with the check engine light and low battery. The next pull I was back to nothing. I put my spare v.r. On the one by the clutch cover and everything worked perfect. The next pull nothing. So I swapped out the other v.r. Up by the nose and now it's all good again. Weird stuff! Heard that the fuel pump could cause similar symptoms? Had a buddy that went through this and the fuel pump fixed it. Any advice would be great. 11 pro 800 with silber turbo. On a side note the dobeck box has been the only thing that hasn't gone out or acted strange. Sled ran fine before I took the hood off!


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Click to expand...

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Running anything off of that "DC PWR" connector from the ECU is a poor idea.... I know lots of turbo mfgs use this... doesn't make it a good idea... Plus there is NO fuse on that connector and it draws power from the ECU... Most of those oil pumps will induce "noise" into the system that should be separate from those kinds of loads.

Breeze is right though... lots of people run off that connector without issues... If you are going to run off of that...Put a 2 amp max fuse on it for sure... even if the turbo builder does not say anything about it.

If your Lighing/charging/heating VR is functioning properly, and you tie into it with a good Rectifier and cap or battery... you will have a very good power supply for accessories.




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try unplugging your afr gauge.

We have had problems that ended up being a bad afr sensor.