Has Polaris issued a recall for the oil cap?

mountainhorse · Apr 14, 2014

christopher said:
SORRY GUYS!
Sometimes I forget that not all of you live on SnoWest full time!

Most members that embed You-Tube videos do so by using the small YOU-TUBE icon in the edit window

Clicking that icon generates a set of vBullitin tags that sit on the left and right of the video ID number.

BUT...

There is a better way if you are willing to take a couple extra steps.

Click on REPLY.
The Reply To Thread window opens (The Edit Window)
Then, look in the TOP RIGHT CORNER of the edit window for this icon.

Click on that icon to move from WYSIWYG over to EDIT MODE.

Now, lets say you want to EMBED this video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MKn9kOtVgEg

Normally you would just insert the "MKn9kOtVgEg" between the you-tube tags, but now you can do a controlled EMBED of the video instead.

On the video page
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MKn9kOtVgEg

Click on SHARE
Then choose EMBED
Choose your desired display resolution
Then COPY the generated code

< iframe src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/MKn9kOtVgEg" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="480" width="640">< /iframe>

When you paste that code into the Edit Window while in the EDITOR MODE it will generate the video display when you exit the Editor mode and return back to the WYSIWYG mode.

If you paste the same code in WYSIWYG, then all you will see is the code, like above.

These are examples of the same video embeded at different resolutions.

This process is the same for VIMEO

...

mountainhorse · Apr 14, 2014

F_ast said:
THOUGHT I WOULD POST THIS HERE TOO...
Embedding youtube vids here is pretty easy, but a little weird.

In a youtube URL, there is a number sequence or code. Here is an example

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s1L4BH4ygW8 (I Bolded the code so you would see it... it is the code after the (=) you are looking for).

Push the white and red youtube button (second last button) on the top of the bar on the message page. you will get this [YOU-TUBE][/YOU-TUBE]... minus the - marks (added them so the message would show).

Put the code in between the

On some strings, the code is a little buried (like when the link is copied from a vid you have chosen off the featured vids page for instance. Lets say you are have a http string like this >

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OWKbNIY2uqM&feature=related[/url]

The Code is not everything after the (=) in this case. You have to pull just the code as I bolded in the sting above.

[YOU-TUBE]s1L4BH4ygW8[/YOU-TUBE]<

I use the preview button to make sure everything is working right before I submit the message too. To see how the actual code looks, push the Quote button and look at my message string

Hope this helps out.

...

PaasoRacing · Apr 14, 2014

bryceraisanen · Apr 14, 2014

I cant imagine they could ever "realistically" recall the oil cap. Even if it were proved bad beyond all reasonable doubt. The backlash would be insurmountable. Everybody would want a new motor whether theirs is running or not or under warranty or not because they could claim there motor wore prematurely or is GOING to grenade earlier than it should. A recall by nature, is admitting fault (imo) and something Poo isn't likely to tackle.

I do predict we'll see a different design or venting or something to deal with this in the not too distant future though.

Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk

Jaynelson · Apr 14, 2014

mountainhorse said:
J... Can you point me to an imploded tank?

.

Nope...I am assuming (perhaps incorrectly) that people have seen that to be worried about this?

rmscustom · Apr 15, 2014

PaasoRacing said:

Your melting some pretty big holes in that cap. Mine are much smaller with no problems but I have a limited amount of time on em. If I need new caps next year I'll know where to get some. lol

PaasoRacing · Apr 15, 2014

The hole for my vented cap is 1/4".

Lorduss · Apr 15, 2014

i think the oil tank sitting over the belt drive has a little to do with this, I would assume that belt grime (the only real dirt we have in these things) is finding its way into that little hole, blocking it from working as it did from the factory.

3 years ago I cranked up my oiler and saw a greatly increased use of oil, this season with no changes I found my self using half of what I use to, I then found out about the oil cap, yanked it and messed with it, plugged.
still have a good running machine, I am not screwing around with this.

as far as a recall gos, auto makers wait until quite a few people die from something, or several lawsuits, Polaris is not getting people killed or sued with this defect, we all have to suck it up our selfs and it well stay this way.

Merlin · Apr 15, 2014

PaasoRacing said:
Fourth: Drilling or burning holes in the OEM cap WILL result in leaks if the sled is used for anything other than flat trail cruising.

rmscustom said:
Your melting some pretty big holes in that cap. Mine are much smaller with no problems but I have a limited amount of time on em. If I need new caps next year I'll know where to get some. lol

Judging from the video, the holes that you burned in using the pick had to be somewhere between .060" & .080".

FWIW I drilled .020" holes & then tipped my sled on it's side with no leakage after 5 minutes or so.

Of course my garage testing won't replace real world testing. :face-icon-small-win

kanedog · Apr 15, 2014

Some of the leaking is caused by people parking their sled on it's side.
I never understood why people do this.

Laundryboy · Apr 15, 2014

I wonder what the diameter of a heated up sewing needle would be?

mtnsledder · Apr 16, 2014

Push pin works great, don't even have to heat it up.

Beavis · Apr 17, 2014

I just had major engine failure on my '11Pro. The typical issue of piston skirt broke off and took out cylinders, head, crank, and hole in the case. I'm wondering if this oil cap venting issue might be involved in the cause.

I noticed on a couple of rides before it grenaded that the engine oil light was coming on occasionally even though the tank was easily above the low level or close to full. I chalked it up to the sensor was going bad because I'd just turn off the sled and restart and the light would stay off. However, at the exact time it locked up, I looked down at the gauges and noticed the engine oil light was on again.

Is that purely coincidence about the oil light being on at the time it puked? (The reservoir was full) Or does that light read something other than oil level in the tank - like an air lock?

PaasoRacing · Apr 17, 2014

That was purely coincidence. The oil light is a very simple float sensor that simply reads low oil level. The piston skirt issue is a issue that won't be solved with additional oil bottle venting... It will certainly help to have proper oiling, but the issue won't be solved.

bryceraisanen · Apr 18, 2014

My oil light comes on every time I pop a wheelie... pretty standard

Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk

TRS · Apr 18, 2014

Oil light is a common problem. Pull the sender/float out of the tank and reinsert it, this usually rectifies the light problem.

geo · Apr 19, 2014

Out of curiosity, after viewing Passo's vid, I decided to check my "gortex theory" lol of 3 tiny holes spaced at 120 degrees. I did this in 2012 to my Cat after thinking about other venting methods and my Pro has been this way since day 1. Never had a drip in field use but never laid it over to actually check lol.

First I pulled the cap and set it level on the bench for 15min. to check if any oil had accumulated from the past year. I lifted it and poked up on the valve. It was moist but nothing came out.
Next, I filled the tank to within a couple of inches of full. I only fill my tank to a line I made when new, 2 liters from empty (it's a weight thing lol). I liked what I saw in oil tank design for running low on oil. I've used over a liter a many times on a single ride but have never seen the infamous bubble. I've run more "extra oil" on other simpler tank designs to be comfortable.
Then I laid the sled over for the night. In the morning there was no oil outside the tank. I removed the cap again and set it on the bench for 15 min. Lifted and poked at the vent. Dang, got a couple of drips. Left it on the bench for the morning and got another 1/2 drip.

Guess even "Gortex" leaks lol but I'll leave this set up for field use as it has been dry for 2.5 seasons so far.

On the bubble, I've only seen it in pictures and threads and my tank has been as low as .8 of a liter. Even had a gas hiccup once this year lol. But it's not a daily check thing for me either. Usually my ride back to the truck is the last "burn" physically and pretty much WFO when possible. I enjoy that part of the day too lol.

IMO if it comes from the top It should disappear from the top if oil is flowing. If it comes from the bottom,,,, maybe it won't disappear until oil is flowing again. If your tank is venting.

Laundryboy · Apr 19, 2014

The smaller the holes the better, what did you use to make the three holes?

Hawkster · Apr 20, 2014

I stumbled into this when we where cabin hopping this weekend , Poo must believe it is necessary on some of their models . This has been and is being used on the current 550s' .

Stewy · Apr 21, 2014

Got this off HCS from poster TC1. The gas cap off a 2004 500 Predator is vented and retails for $28.99, fits perfect. Part # 5434736

Has Polaris issued a recall for the oil cap?

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