Fuel tank level for summer storage?

With your storage plans and assuming non-ethanol, leave at least a gal or two, so pickup lines are not exposed to air in the tank. Drain more in fall if you can or like, and immediately add fresh. Been doing that with pros since 11, zero fuel problems. Some peeps switch to storage fuel, especially if they can't get non-ethanol. Filling full and draining all in the fall is not bad, just not necessary if you can store in a low moisture environment.

What Reg said...

You can use AV gas for storage... siphon all of your gas out of the tank... Put in the AV gas and start the sled. Or use the storage fuels from VP.

Start it every month over the summer to keep the internal parts from getting dry (no oil) ...keeps rust at bay.

For me... I drain all the fuel.. purge the lines and install the new filter...I don't add fuel till the season....The days of Rubber drying out are gone, there is no rubber in the system.

If I have a full season on the injectors... I like to send them in to get them cleaned and flow checked... Only $20 each... good insurance.
http://www.witchhunter.com/index.php

Sucks to have fuel issues.


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Carbs with crankcase oil injection showed me more about storage with modern fuels,, more than injection did for me. So I carried forward my system and has worked so far.

I use 10 liters of summer (better chance of non-eth content) non-eth pump fuel (no premix, empty the seasonal pre-mix fuel) and a whole bottle of Techron (60 liters worth, believe this helps my injectors while soaking between runs but just theory). Wire my oil pump on full (simple hook and bend of some aluminum tig rod or something. It stays wired open for the summer.
Open up the shop and start the fan lol. Start and just leave the engine idle. Check with hand on tunnel until it is pretty warm lol. Then a few blips to lube the pistons and piston pin bearing real good, spin the track a bit, move the belt up and down the sheaves a bit cycle the clutches a few times and your drive (chain or belt).
Then, shut it down and drop it off the stand. Then when the smoke clears I do the bouncy bouncy, pull over and carve in both directions and vroom vroom thing lol to keep the suspention stuff free (and it's fun lol).
Drain and refill with fresh for next season. Use what is left for the lawnmower or gen set next summer if both are Honda lol.

About Aug., I use this time to prep physically and mentally lol for the season too, so sometimes it becomes every 2 weeks. I do a dozen or so dead lifts at the back bumper. Lift and drop, lift and drop lol and progress to lift and throw 45 degrees, lift and throw lol. Then squats at the front. Bend the knees and lift and drop, lift and drop lol.
Final thing is the best thing you can do for your sled. Isometric chair combined with a roll-a-weight-up-and-down on an old set of bars.

You do all that and your sled will be ready.

This method requires good neighbors lol. One neighborhood newbie phoned the fire department once lol. It took a barby and beer to explain the importance of this. He has since become a sledder and adds to the summer 'squito control in our neighborhood.

I add a double shot of Stabil Fuel Stabilizer, 8 oz of 2 stroke oil in the gas (told it stabilizes ethanol fuel), 1 bottle of seafoam into each tank and then start engine and run it for 10-15 minutes. Just before shutting down, I fog the intake and If I'm feeling industrious, will put 5ml (teaspoon) of 2 stroke oil into spark plug hole.

I don't drain and replace the fuel at the beginning of the riding season 6-7 months later either. Has worked for my fuel injected ATVs for a while and my carbed sleds without any issues.

In past was hard to find a use for 20 gallons of gasoline if I drained sled fuel tanks since I own 2 diesels. Now that I have a F150 ecoboost that may be less of an issue...that things a gas hog.

I do prime it.

It takes about 2 minutes with some simple jumper wires to the prime plug.

The pump will prime with the lines empty with zero issues.




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