GEO/ELVIS update#2 (New setup specs)

Qreiff · Apr 6, 2010

Love the Geo Mod set up! Thanks Elvis for getting me motivated. Worked wonderful, great transfer, still some ski lift (which I prefer) and the ride was definitely higher quality. (BTW 120 PSI / 220lbs dressed, fairly aggressive rider)

Re-valve this off-season and should be good to go.

dmkhnr · Apr 7, 2010

Are you guys riding deep powder with this mod?
I did it 2 years ago and was highly disapointed with the deep powder climbing as it trenched quite a bit more than the stock susp sleds I was riding with.

I did it again this last week, as I thought that maybe I had missed something 2 years ago, and sure enough it's a trencher. I'm 190 dressed and ran 100# in the float with 8 turns on the center shock.
My sled is very light in the front, so my normal setup is to run the lower hole in the drop bracket, 4 turns on the center shock and 140# in the float.

Qreiff · Apr 14, 2010

dmkhnr said:
Are you guys riding deep powder with this mod?
I did it 2 years ago and was highly disapointed with the deep powder climbing as it trenched quite a bit more than the stock susp sleds I was riding with.

I did it again this last week, as I thought that maybe I had missed something 2 years ago, and sure enough it's a trencher. I'm 190 dressed and ran 100# in the float with 8 turns on the center shock.
My sled is very light in the front, so my normal setup is to run the lower hole in the drop bracket, 4 turns on the center shock and 140# in the float.

To answer your question, I'd say yes to the deep powder. Rode two weeks ago in 18-24 of fresh with the geo mod and really liked it.

My former set up was the lower hole in the drop, 150psi in the Fox and 5 turns in the center. New set up with the geo is 120 psi, 5 turns.

I didn't find that it trenched more at all.......in fact a bit of the opposite. I felt I was getting on "plane" better than before. ?? Interesting.

I found that 100-105 psi in the Float was not near enough for me. Also maybe try a little looser on the center.

Ski-Laxn · Apr 26, 2010

Ok did mine have ridden twice. Feel that the front end seems heavy when on trail. What do I need to adjust to make front end seem lighter?
Fronts Shocks one full turn after spring is tight
Middle 4 threads
Rear 110 PSI

Qreiff · Oct 19, 2010

ttt

With MainJet asking questions about this mod and myself having freshly re-valved shocks and EVOL chamber added to rear Fox Float, I though getting this back into view might be good for some fresh dialog.

At the end of last season I did the GEO but with stock shock set ups which are terrible. This season starting with the rear suspension in the GEO location, with revalved shocks. Looking forward to reporting my findings.

Q

elvis1280 · Oct 19, 2010

Qreiff said:
ttt

With MainJet asking questions about this mod and myself having freshly re-valved shocks and EVOL chamber added to rear Fox Float, I though getting this back into view might be good for some fresh dialog.

At the end of last season I did the GEO but with stock shock set ups which are terrible. This season starting with the rear suspension in the GEO location, with revalved shocks. Looking forward to reporting my findings.

Q

Good idea Q on bringing this back up to the front. As you know from the denver show when we talked i am in the same boat as you. I just got the burandt revalve from fox back, i was painting the rails on my LE black so i had it all apart and i am putting it back together tomorrow. I am keeping it in the geo mod till season and i will go from there? this is going to be very interesting, i am excited. call me when you get my cases of LEGEND oil and the new 5w30 LEGEND for my truck. i cant wait for this oil, i am having anxiety attacks

Destroyer · Oct 19, 2010

I'm curious as well. I have a 2010 153 with the burandt kit. I Haven't had a chance to try it yet. I'm also tempted to drill out for the geo/elvis mod and just have the option available. Lot's of transfer is good for me. I read somewhere that fox recommends starting at 140psi for the burandt shock upgrade.

WyoBoy1000 · Oct 19, 2010

If someone would, when the snow flies and you get into the deep stuff. Actually change from one to the other to see which trenches less and performs better. I know it would be a pain doing it on the hill but it is the only real way to know. Might have to make pre load and psi adjustments as well.

elvis1280 · Oct 19, 2010

I agree wyo that the only real way to compare. i have messed with the skid so much though i hope i can figure it out without doing that, but i am sure i will. the best thing i have going for me is that my best friend has a 10' also that is stock and i can always see what mine is doing riding next to him.

elvis1280 · Oct 19, 2010

Destroyer said:
I'm curious as well. I have a 2010 153 with the burandt kit. I Haven't had a chance to try it yet. I'm also tempted to drill out for the geo/elvis mod and just have the option available. Lot's of transfer is good for me. I read somewhere that fox recommends starting at 140psi for the burandt shock upgrade.

I think you should drill em out so they are there for you if you want. running at 140 psi is so stiff w/ the stock valve so i am excited to see what 140 with the burandt revalve is like? but i am assuming that 90 psi with the revalve in the geo setup is gonna be better

Bearcat · Oct 20, 2010

I did this mod last year and really liked it too. Even my sled is 141" it floats really good. Front end is really light and you can do those "Burandt" -turns just by leaning back and turning. Funny thing is there's no difference doing it right or left. In stock form it seems always easier to turn left.

My setup is little different as I have longer shock in front skid (pic of it in previous post). Front arm is in the stock hole with zero spring tension. Rear float is revalved to -10 specs exept there's about three times bigger orifice hole inside the shock. Bigger hole in the rear shock helps you lift your front end up. Next year I'll try -11 valving because -10 valving is too loose from rebound side. -11 valving looks good enough to me

Also I'm trying putting rear arm back to stock mounting hole or drilling out the upper hole for front arm. This is because sled flips over really easily

If someone has Firecat front skid shock with reservoir laying around, I'd try it out in stock mounting hole. It performs like stock shock in lower position exept you have more stroke. And better valving

Frostbite · Oct 20, 2010

I'm also glad to see this pop back up to the top. I modded my skid last spring and the Avy danger got so bad that I never made it back out. I'm waiting to read any updates I should be trying based upon what you guys learn. Once I get to ride, I will share my impressions as well.

Elvis, what are your recommended air pressures for the skid shocks after a revalve with this mod? How about front ski shock pressures?

Not to confuse the issue but, on an 05 the Geo mod is moving the front skid shock lower shaft mount hole 1" forward (or was it back) on the rail? Is this the best that can be done on the older skids or are there other "tweaks" that can be done to make them work better? Maybe this should be a different post?

likkerpig · Oct 20, 2010

I thought the 05/06 Geo was moving the rear spring slider block mounting hole to the rear 1". Could be wrong though. It certainly would be beneficial to have another thread on the 05/06 IMO. There are still a lot of older M's out there and we "lost" all the good threads on the older M's when the upgrade happened.

Qreiff · Oct 27, 2010

Crusty82 · Oct 28, 2010

I did the geo/elvis mode on my 2010 m8 today. And i guess i gonna drop to the lower hole in the front as well.

2 things i noticed.
I had 100psi in the shock and switched back an forward between orginal and moded. The sag is the same every time. Is this how it is for others as well?

I haven`t bought the shaft collars but I see that if i use the ones with 1 1/8" outer diameter. They will stop the skid much earlier than the original set up.

If i lift the sled up and mount it stock. I can mount them directly.

To mount the stops when its moded there have to by a little bit sag.

Is there any pro/cons for them to touch the skid exactly when the skid hangs freely?
What would happen if they wasn`t there at all?

stocksucks!! · Oct 28, 2010

geo/elvis

sent out all my suspension to my motorcross supension dude.hes gonna re valve and install a hevier spring in front skid shock.
my question is i a m a big dude at 250 to 260 with no gear on so when avy bag is on lunch and water on board i am closer to 300 pounds.. i rode last year front ski shock at 70-75 psi and rear skid will be 10-12 turns on front skid spring and 150+ in rear float.. so is this a mod i should do or should i try my revalved suspension first??

elvis1280 · Nov 2, 2010

since you sled your sled is ready to ride in the stock postion you should try it first. but its not hard to drill 4 new holes either so its there for you to try. you weigh quite a bit so i bet your shock are harsh at a high psi. the revalve will help a lot, but i bet the revalve and the mod running at 110psi will feel even better.

stocksucks!! · Nov 2, 2010

thanks

thank you for getting back to me.. and i will just drill the holes and try it the way it is now and if i want i can move it to the new holes thanks alot...

av8er · Nov 2, 2010

i weigh 250 without geat

run floats at 105psi after geo mod

av8er · Nov 2, 2010

typo without gear

gear

GEO/ELVIS update#2 (New setup specs)

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