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PC3 Question for Dynojet

S
Dec 7, 2007
1,010
160
63
Elkhorn NE
I have a pc3 usb on a 09 m1000 with a slp map for their full exhaust set up, I have a nagging bog that I cannot seem to cure. From idle to half or wot I will get a sutter basically engine is not on the pipe pulling, there is a sound the engine makes that kind of like it has a fouled plug. When it making this sound it does not matter how much throttle it will stutter until I work the throttle where the note changes and she pulls like a freight train. I have set tps with dyno jet tech support and I have verified that the tps is in good working order. I am wondering if the temp sensor in the air box is the cause or if a firmware up date would do any good? This issue just appeared when I started the sled up from the off season, it always had a similar stutter at times from idle to wot but nothing like this. Thanks for the reply
 
I have a pc3 usb on a 09 m1000 with a slp map for their full exhaust set up, I have a nagging bog that I cannot seem to cure. From idle to half or wot I will get a sutter basically engine is not on the pipe pulling, there is a sound the engine makes that kind of like it has a fouled plug. When it making this sound it does not matter how much throttle it will stutter until I work the throttle where the note changes and she pulls like a freight train. I have set tps with dyno jet tech support and I have verified that the tps is in good working order. I am wondering if the temp sensor in the air box is the cause or if a firmware up date would do any good? This issue just appeared when I started the sled up from the off season, it always had a similar stutter at times from idle to wot but nothing like this. Thanks for the reply
Sledbrain2,
Since this issue just popped up on you from the off season, I might not dig towards the PCIIIUSB as the cause just yet.
Instead, lets verify all other hard components on the sled starting with the fuel pickups. These may have become clogged while sitting and the smart valves now aren't allowing enough fuel to pass through - which starves the engine for fuel. Be sure to siphon all of the old gas out and start with fresh non-ethanol 91 octane.
If your lines/pickups/injectors have sat with a fuel containing ethanol inside them, each component may be slightly clogged or gummy and should be cleaned with a fuel system treatment of your choice. STP and StarTron are a few companies that make "ethanol specialized treatments".
Also, check the fuel pressure with an inline gauge to ensure that the in-tank fuel pressure regulator hasn't malfunctioned/clogged resulting in too much pressure being sent down to the rail.
Once the injection system is verified to be in good working order, now we can jump to the electrical side. Ensure that no chassis ground lug has corroded an no connections have become compromised by moisture inclusion. Even a shorted taillight wire under the seat has caused more headaches for fellow riders than I can count.
Lastly, lets check your PCIIIUSB Button Values and fueling tables. While powering up the sled, hold down the three buttons on the enclosure to enter the fuel trim adjustment mode. (This can be done with either the 9V battery + adapter or by pulling the rope/starting at the same time you/friend hold down the buttons). Ensure that each of these Low Mid and High trims are set where they were when the sled ran good last - or adjust the Low or Mid LEDs to a higher value and test ride one at a time (always go richer first). If that made it worse, try going leaner one LED bar at a time. Perhaps all of these should even be set at zero....Since the top end is good and pulls hard, you can leave that one alone. Once you've tinkered enough with the coarse adjustments via the three buttons, we can dive into the main map table inside the device.

Thank you for your interest in Dynojet Products!
~T.J.
 
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