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Tip on checking your power valves

TRS

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I just pulled an ex. valve on an '07 600HO that calls for the 2925. It has the same sealing issue. The ex. valve itself has enough relief to use the 3934 or 2350.
2925 is used from 2006-2011
2350 is used on all the old big blocks back to 2002 and the small blocks to 2006, then a crossover in 2011-2013. Now it supered to 3934.:der::noidea:
 

snosfun

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Oh man...i wonder if this is causing my bog and cutting out problem on my turbo. I have had my valves off and replaced with some gaskets i had left over from my 02 800 edge. I just pulled a valve off and it is the bigger cut out and it is burned through at one hole so it is not sealing....arrrrgh!!! Got new updated gaskets coming pronto.

Sent from my SCH-S738C using Tapatalk 4
 

mountainhorse

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Ok... I can usually follow things pretty well... but I guess I'm extra slow today (hey, I'm old!)

Can you tell me which ones would be the correct gasket PN for ALL the PRO RMK's (2011 - 2014)?

Thanks in advance.






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tinkerjohnson

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From what trs is saying it sounds like you should use the new gasket (5813934) on all 6-7-800s for the power valve to seal correctly, good to no. I'm glad to see this thread is doing what it was intended to do and help everybody out and maybe cure some issues guys are having
 
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TRS

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Ok... I can usually follow things pretty well... but I guess I'm extra slow today (hey, I'm old!)

Can you tell me which ones would be the correct gasket PN for ALL the PRO RMK's (2011 - 2014)?

Thanks in advance.






.


I would only use the 2350 or 3934.
IMO, if you have a gasket that you do not have to manipulate over the EV stem, it will not seal.
 

mtncat1

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I looked at my valves tonight this is what I found, hope this helps my problem . if you look closely at the gasket you can see it is blown out.great thread tinker

20140114_180753.jpg
 

jdw1

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I just had my valves out today, I looked at the gaskets that I put on 60 miles ago and it was the light colored one, don't know the # off hand, the one thing I did notice was it looked like the shoulder of the valve stop was slamming into the gasket and cutting it, that didn't really look right to me. The gaskets I put on are the darker color one but I did have to work it over the valve stop shoulder so hopefully they are the correct ones. We'll see!
 

TRS

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I just had my valves out today, I looked at the gaskets that I put on 60 miles ago and it was the light colored one, don't know the # off hand, the one thing I did notice was it looked like the shoulder of the valve stop was slamming into the gasket and cutting it, that didn't really look right to me. The gaskets I put on are the darker color one but I did have to work it over the valve stop shoulder so hopefully they are the correct ones. We'll see!

To keep things straight. The shoulder is not the valve stop, it is there to make sure your valve orientation in the cylinder is correct. If you push your valve in to the stops you will see there is enough relief behind the shoulder to accommodate the gasket.
 

jdw1

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To keep things straight. The shoulder is not the valve stop, it is there to make sure your valve orientation in the cylinder is correct. If you push your valve in to the stops you will see there is enough relief behind the shoulder to accommodate the gasket.

Ok, but why is the gasket smashed right behind the orientation thing-a-mabob like something is hittin it?
 
G

geo

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Hmmm. Ditto to above on mine??

I definitely don't have shoulder there to stop my valves. I have some cast blocks on the housing but they do not touch before the gasket is hit with the valve. Different in '13?? Production tolerances??

The way I see it on mine, there is nothing there to seal the extra gasket material except the valve when it touches anyway unless an "unsquished" gasket can be considered a seal.
So is this seal needed only when the valve is open??
Never thought about the valves too much in the Suzukis. Added weight but the cable stepper motor had it's advantages. Besides clean and trouble free the added ability to open only partially added some torque to the laydown engine. Maybe allowed taller exhaust ports too for top end power.
Don't the Etecs have ex valve progression control too. Maybe next gen of CFI lol.

Any how, paper and metal smashing it, lol, is not a long term thing. So,,,

I pulled my easy side out last night. I'm trying 30 thou aluminum here first (easier to work with and only have 40 thou stainless). I'll check it in a couple of rides.

IMO if this area had a metal gasket the pic above would not happen. I've seen it 4 times now but not as bad.
 
G

geo

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Decided to do both, dang lol

With a 30 thou aluminum gaskets one valve allows a 12 thou feeler gauge on one valve stop when fully open. The other side needs two 12 thou feeler gauges (one on each stop) to take up the clearance.

Looks to me like the side that gets smashed up should always be closed off or you could lose pressure. Tiny little holes in the body though. Weird set-up for something that was so simple before. I guess it's the EPA again.

Let's get into the 90's Poo! my 93 Cr had multi- positioning exhaust valves.
 
J

jeepin270

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Awhile back I believe there was a thread on here about drilling a small hole in the gasket to match the hole in the cylinder. Does anybody still do that?
 

tinkerjohnson

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Awhile back I believe there was a thread on here about drilling a small hole in the gasket to match the hole in the cylinder. Does anybody still do that?

The gasket already has the hole in it, drilling it larger maybe that's what they were talking about not real sure if that will make any difference. the hole in the valve assembly that feeds the bellows is much smaller.
 

rmkrazy87

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Hey does anyone know if these gaskets have been changed to omit all the 4 little holes that line up with the hole in the cylinder?

This is how the ones I got today came.

Thank you
 
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