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WHy the RMK lower pulley bolt breaks

Teth-Air

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I copied my response from another thread as this problem really needs attention before someone gets killed. When you loose your lower pulley, you loose your brakes.

Keep in mind, this is only my opinion. I sell the TKI belt drives and see and hear lots on this subject.

All years can be out of spec. but generally the 14"s seem to be the best.

You can use the ARP bolts or order from Fastenal the 12.9 socket head bolts as I did. You will need to buy 25 pc. like I did and sell to your Poo friends.

The stronger bolts may just delay the inevitable though. If the pulley moves at all on the splines you will have failure to either the bolt or the driveshaft and here is why:

The bolt head presses on the pulley (with washer) and in turn the pulley presses on the bearing. This side loading is the only thing that locks the bearing from spinning on the driveshaft. With a loose fitting pulley, every time you go from forward to reverse or even hit the brake, the pulley moves on the splines AND rotates under the bolt head. Now just imagine back and forth all day, every day you ride. The splines wear a bit but think about the interface between the bolt (washer) and the pulley. The underside of the bolt will wear into the washer (or washer into the pulley). Now the pulley and bolt get looser. Now the pulley starts rocking under the bolt head and as the underside of the bolt head does not tighten completely to the shaft, the bolt bends back and forth until it is stressed enough to pop off. This rocking is partially due to the poor design of not having long enough shafts to center float the pulley's. If your bolt simply looses and does not break, the shaft can spin in the bearing and wear the shaft down. This was common in 2013 and will be returning for the 15's. The cupped washer in 13 did have some merit as it may have added some spring tension to the pulley to take up some slop and extend the time before disaster.

I do have some 12.9 bolts in stock for the Canadian guys for $3 each but that is not my motive here.

How I fixed mine:
Well I lost a 8.8 bolt in my 2014 and lost a 10.9 bolt in my 2015 and surprisingly survived as we were in the big mountains. Anyway the 14 is pretty tight so I just added a 12.9 hard bolt but for the 15 I had to go all the way. I drilled and tapped the hole for a 12 mm bolt, then I used a 12.9 hard bolt and cut off the head and made it into a stud. I bottomed the stud in the shaft with red Loctite. Now I used Loctite 660 on the splines. The 660 is for worn splines and shafts. It is removed with heat. Next I drilled out the washer to fit the bigger bolt. Finally I used 2 nuts, one to tighten down on the pulley to 45 ft/lb and the second as a locker. This idea was maybe overkill but I can easily check the torque without breaking any thread locker.

I also heard that Polaris went to a bigger bolt for 2016? We will see.

Several rides and it has not budged. Previously I could see the pulley rocking on the shaft even with the bolt at 45 ft/lbs. In addition I used the Loctite 660 on the top pulley as it was rocking on the splines too.

I also ordered the Loctite from Fastenal. http://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&...91071109,d.cGU

Chris
 

mountainhorse

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My reply from the other thread... good points Teth-Air.

I'm not sure that a "harder" bolt (12.9) is needed or even better though... A "tougher" bolt, IMO, is the ticket.

Excellent points above... and elaborated by Tethair... and also good point on the stretch.

A 10mm-15mm thick, parallel faced, washer would help with this and allow you to use a longer bolt.

Preload, stretch, bolt length, torque etc... all are factors in clamping force on the inner race to the shaft.. which also would help to keep the pulley square to the shaft... and help to prevent rocking.

If the bearing shoulder of the drive shaft is square to the length of the shaft... and the bearing inner-race journal registry faces are parallel to each other and square to the outer race... and the inner face and outer face of the pulley at the splines are parallel to each other...and the shaft is just a hair shorter than the overall installed height of the bearing and pulley... then you should be able to pull the assembly together with some good preload and resist rocking as much as possible given the design of the assembly.

Yes... as Rick! is eluding to... the longer bolt will have more elastic stretch (and longer preload extension) than a shorter bolt. Preload is good to keep the pulley snugged up tight to the inner-journal/bearing-shoulder. You can preload a longer bolt more than you can a shorter bolt.. so long as the increase in lenght is not all threaded.

Good write-up on stretch.
http://arp-bolts.com/p/technical.php#p7TPMc1_3

Ideally... I'd like to see a good stud fastener and washer for the quickdrive... maybe a "kit" from ARP (they are always open to stuff that will sell) ... so that the driveshaft threads do not bear the torsional issues of the bolt being installed and torqued... save that factor for a high end, square ground and hardened nut!!

I am a fan of saving $$... I still feel the ARP bolts are superior to any other out there that is easily available to consumers. You get what you pay for... the ARP's are not much harder than the 10.9-grade fastener (stock bolt)... but the metallurgy and process makes them "tougher"



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mountainhorse

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Chris... Have you removed the lower pulley once you have used the Loctite-660?
Did you need a puller for that?
If you used heat.. what did you do to shield the bearing and seals from that heat?

It would be nice if TKI also made a precision "stock-replacement" gear with better spline fit... I guarantee Tom would make it better than the factory part and at a lower price.... Maybe Tom could also get ARP to make a Stud kit with thick conical washer and hardened/ground nut???




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Teth-Air

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Chris... Have you removed the lower pulley once you have used the Loctite-660?
Did you need a puller for that?
If you used heat.. what did you do to shield the bearing and seals from that heat?

It would be nice if TKI also made a precision "stock-replacement" gear with better spline fit... I guarantee Tom would make it better than the factory part and at a lower price.... Maybe Tom could also get ARP to make a Stud kit with thick conical washer and hardened/ground nut???


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I have not removed the pulley yet, only relied on the info from Loctite that it will melt when I need it to. 250 Celsius melts it and that's less than 3 times hotter than boiling water so I don't feel too hot.

Tom has measured them and found the spline sizes to be very inconsistent so he can't make a design that will ok for all sleds. Some are tight and some are loose. We need Polaris to get their Poo together.

http://www.loctite.sg/sea/content_data/93755_Loctite_660_Quick_Metal_Retaining_Compound.pdf
 

Teth-Air

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My reply from the other thread... good points Teth-Air.

I'm not sure that a "harder" bolt (12.9) is needed or even better though... A "tougher" bolt, IMO, is the ticket.

I actually saw the chart on their wall regarding the 12.9 socket head bolts and the tensile strength was about 50% stronger than the 10.9 hex head bolt.
 

mountainhorse

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Tom has measured them and found the spline sizes to be very inconsistent so he can't make a design that will ok for all sleds. Some are tight and some are loose. We need Polaris to get their Poo together.

Since Tom is also dealing with mfg. variances in the spline of the stock shaft in the application of his kits... It would be great if he could get ARP to make a stud from ARP2000®... say 50mm length with a hardened nut...(50mm -->> 20mm IN the shaft, 15mm of washer thickness, 15mm for nut with ground flange-face)

Then make a large OD, parallel face, 15mm thick, steel spacer-washer with a heavy top chamfer.

This would allow the use of a long stud, with a non threaded "waist" section and allow easy installation into the drive shaft without torsional loading, minimizing the risk of thread damage to the shaft with higher torques required to preload the fastener... and allow significantly higher preload (ie "clamping force") of the pulley against the bearing journal and shaft shoulder...This would minimize any rocking of the pulley on the splines/shaft.







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mountainhorse

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Tensile strength and Toughness...

Full threaded vs. partial threaded.



ARP:
Toughness vs. brittleness?
With steels, as the strength goes up, the toughness decreases. At too high a strength, the metal tends to be brittle. And threads accentuate the brittleness. A tool steel which can be heat-treated to 350,000 psi, would be a disaster as a bolt because of the threads.

What is the difference between 4130 and 8740 chrome moly?
Both are alloy steels with similar chemistry. The 4130 has only .3% carbon and can’t be hardened as high as 8740, which has .4% carbon. Also, 8740 has about .45% nickel and 4130 has none. Both have moly (most alloy steels have moly). The chromium content of 4130 is slightly higher, .95% instead of .55%. However, 8740 is generally considered to have slightly better toughness due to the nickel.

The Stretch Factor
It is important to note that in order for a fastener to function properly it must be "stretched" a specific amount. The material's ability to "rebound" like a spring is what provides the clamping force. If you were to simply "finger-tighten" a bolt there would be no preload. However, when you apply torque or rotate a fastener a specific amount and stretch it, you will be applying clamping force. The amount of force or preload you can achieve from any bolt or stud depends on the material being used and its ductility, the heat treat, and the diameter of the fastener. Of course, every fastener has a "yield" point! The yield point or yield strength of a fastener is the point at which the fastener has been overtightened and stretched too much, and will not return to its original manufactured length. As a rule of thumb, if you measure a fastener and it is .0005˝ (or more) longer than its original length it has been compromised and must be replaced.


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S
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If anyone is interested.

The yield strength of a 12.9 bolt is 90% of 1200MPa

The same with a 10.9 which has yield strength at 90% of 1000MPa

and naturally for the 8.8 the numbers are 80% of 800MPA yield strength.

The 1200,1000 resp 800MPa is the maximum or fracture/failure stress/strength for each material.

And 1200MPa, or even its yield strength of 1080MPa, is quite a lot, about twice of what most cromemoly materials I've seen have and probably more than anything else on your sled.
 

mountainhorse

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Simnil... good breakdown of the "code" of metric bolts.... and where they come up with 12.9, 10.9, 8.8 etc!!!

The ARP 8740 chromoly bolts...slightly higher tensile strength (approx 195,000 psi/1340MPa) than an off the shelf 12.9 class bolt (174,000psi/1200MPa)

Again... the addition of nickel into the alloy... as well as other materials will increase it's "toughness" or resistance to cyclic fatigue.... and allow for more preload for a given length

Most off the shelf bolts do not have nickel in them.... regardless of grade.

Grade, as Simnil pointed out very well, refers only to a bolts tensile properties... within that specification... so many other attributes are possible in different alloys and treatments.

ARP manufactures fasteners from a wide assortment of materials ranging from popular stainless steel and 8740 chrome moly to exotic alloys that have been developed to handle space travel.
...

8740 Chrome Moly is seen as a good tough steel, with adequate fatigue properties for most racing applications, but only if the threads are rolled after heat-treatment, as is the standard ARP production practice. Typically, chrome moly is classified as a quench and temper steel, that can be heat-treated to deliver tensile strengths between 180,000 and 210,000 psi.





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S
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We use a lot of 12.9 bolts for the things we build at work. Often when there is a problem with high grade bolts coming loose it is the material under the bolt head that is too soft. Any deformation in any of the tensioned components will result in a loss of tension in the bolt which increases the risk for it to come loose.
 

Teth-Air

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We use a lot of 12.9 bolts for the things we build at work. Often when there is a problem with high grade bolts coming loose it is the material under the bolt head that is too soft. Any deformation in any of the tensioned components will result in a loss of tension in the bolt which increases the risk for it to come loose.

Exactly and in addition to deformation we also have to consider wear that will increase clearances and then it becomes a run-away condition. A little movement causes a little wear which causes more movement and more wear and so on.

Plus I just heard from Tom at TKI that they are finding some jackshafts that are too long and the top bolt is bottoming before it tensions the top pulley properly. I hope Polaris has this fixed before my 2016 ships.
 

mountainhorse

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With deformation... preload becomes even more critical... more bolt stretch before reaching it's limit will handle higher amounts deformation.

A bolt that can give higher preload and stretch, within it's elastic limits is the best choice.



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mountainhorse

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Easy to check if the jackshaft or driveshaft splines are too long... and correct the situation....

The jackshaft and driveshaft ends should sit, at least .020" below the surface of the face of the pulley that mounts to it... IMO.

You would have to make a special washer to check this though as this would need to be checked with tension on the bolt.


Now... with all of this being said... Most people are not having issues... BUT, there ARE a significant number that are.



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