Everyone seems to have stopped development on the 1000 motors after the 800 HO came out in 2010 since it was better for 90% of the riders.
My old 09 m1000 was running a d&d y-pipe, can, and a set of reeds and it needed fuel to keep from running lean. I was running EGT gauges on it as well and highly recommend them if you want the motor to last. I don't have the sled around to get any numbers off of it, but I can tell you my findings while tuning. There are a couple spots you really have to watch. The first is the 5000-6700 rpm range between 1/4 and 3/4 throttle where the ignition timing gets hot while cruising at a constant speed. Your lower octane fuel may compound this. If I added enough fuel there to make that range safe, I had sluggish performance while playing in quick on-off throttle terrain. I leaned it out enough to where it performed well and then always took care to vary the throttle a bit on the trail. The second area to watch is the very top end at WOT for an extended pull. I was fine 95% of the time and stayed at 1200F or below on the EGT, but if I did a climb where I loaded the motor hard and was at WOT for several hundred feet or racing a buddy down a LONG wide open stretch, it would go from fine to racing up to 1250+ very suddenly once that big motor got hot. I think this is where some people would really get in trouble with this motor. The third is going from WOT after a long pull to letting the throttle off completely. They don't like cutting the fuel off to them completely when they are hot so be sure to ease out after you top the the hill or add a little fuel at the higher RPM ranges at the low throttle opening.
It went to the dealer for some warranty work and they reflashed the computer to a newer map. It didn't run nearly as well after the fact with the numbers I had in the boondocker box so there is a difference in the maps on some years. I was able to get it sent to the arctic race shop and have the 09 map flashed back into it so I didn't have to re-tune the sled.
