M1000 Engine Expertise Needed

sgsnyder1 · Jan 26, 2015

Hey all,
I have a 2009 M1000 Sno Pro. A couple weeks ago the engine went down while hill climbing. It is my first sled and has been decent to date. I have been enjoying learning the mechanics with this sled and would like to do as much of the repair work as possible myself. I also know there are tips or techniques that make things easier that more experienced people would have. I also am interested in what may have caused the failure and all things that I should check out or fix while things are torn apart.

Current Setup:
M1000
1,980 miles
Full SLP Exhaust
PCV Controller
Timbersled air intake. (Installed last year)
BDX Diamond Drive - M8 Gearing (Also installed last year)

I have pulled the exhaust and cracked the head enough to see that the clutch side piston is covered in shrapnel. I am assuming that I need to pull the engine out in order to really get into it much more? If I remove the engine what do I need to worry about to ensure that alignments are good when it goes back in?

Thanks in advance for all wisdom imparted!

MT Backcountry · Jan 26, 2015

Piston skirt probably

They had problems with piston skirt breakage, You won't see it till completely apart though. Usually on exhaust side or back side

Phizzer · Jan 26, 2015

Possibly a bad crank seal? At 2000 miles I would be replacing that as well with the top end.

kiliki · Jan 26, 2015

Location?
PTO lower rod bearing is most of the time the culprit.
Pull it out and tear it down on the bench
to get it out you first need to take the clutch off. no alignments will change for the most part. the only one i like to leave is in the center lower front mount just take the bolt out of the middle don't undo the clamp holding the mount to the cross rail.
lay it clutch up and use the water trick to get it off and at the same time put a bucket under the coolant bottle and pull the cap off and let it drain. with it still on the side pull 1 head bolt out this will let the rest of the coolant purge into the bucket.

TheOnlyBFC · Jan 26, 2015

As Kiliki said, I would be betting my money on Lower PTO Rod bearing. It sucks, but considering you have to replace crank, seals, bearings, pistons, cylinders you are going to be better off just buying a complete new motor. Contact Ken at rvpowersports he had one for around $2k a couple months ago brand new when I was looking for one.

WyoBoy1000 · Jan 27, 2015

TheOnlyBFC said:
As Kiliki said, I would be betting my money on Lower PTO Rod bearing. It sucks, but considering you have to replace crank, seals, bearings, pistons, cylinders you are going to be better off just buying a complete new motor. Contact Ken at rvpowersports he had one for around $2k a couple months ago brand new when I was looking for one.

Do this,

But take it apart and get some pics so we can see what the cause was so you don't do it again.

I've had many 1000's with full SLP and I can tell you running one without egts is asking for it.

I had to retune mine everyride, but I could tune it and then ride the whole day, usually pretty easy changes but it did change every time. sometimes it was still safe tuning but not optimal. Just to many variables to truly set and go. If you want more info it would be easier to talk on the phone and I can fill you in on all the do's and dont's or possibility.

Get koso dual fast probs way cheaper than 2k for a motor

There is also an optimal temp to get the full potential with combination of the factory tuning.

kiliki · Jan 27, 2015

^^^ you could go threw all this trouble and expense to get the last .00005% to keep up with WY or just set it a bit fat as this motor will take it and love it and not have to fwak with it.
In 4 year I have never had to touch my fuel box and it runs day in and out the same. As you have an 09 the map is much more forgiving unlike some of the early 07-08 and i run egts for the first year and it is a good starting point but this motor has lots of time out now so most guys can get you into a safe spot no problem.

Hardass · Jan 28, 2015

First off wyo has helped me in the past that said i have an 08 with lots of miles and i dont use a egt at all i do have ported cylinders a nd speedwerx y and pipe personally egts are a crutch and to many depend on them when they shouldnt.Learn your set up check your plugs. Im not fond of the older pcv though i know nothing about the new stuff I like adjustability on the fly. attitude box for me. Pull your motor apart and check it out Your not out anything except some time and youll learn a bunch about that engine. as wyo said call him if you need to or if you want to call me i can help out as well. pm if you want. good luck i love my 1000.

sgsnyder1 · Jan 28, 2015

Thanks for the input so far guys. I just got my hands on a clutch puller so I'll get more into it by the weekend.

Hardass · Jan 28, 2015

To pull the clutch easy you get a bolt same thread as in the clutch wrap it with teflon tip your sled on its side fill crank and clucth with and tighten that bolt it will pop right off.

BigAir · Jan 28, 2015

On a M1000 you can use the factory bolt, because it threads through the clutch before threading into the crank. The clutch has the same threads as the crank. Hardass meant fill the clutch with water and then thread the teflon taped bolt into the clutch to hydraulic the clutch off.

alaska_racer9974 · Jan 29, 2015

MT Backcountry said:
They had problems with piston skirt breakage, You won't see it till completely apart though. Usually on exhaust side or back side

This :face-icon-small-dis

I lost one motor due to pto lower rod bearing...rod punched a hole in the bottom of the cast and totaled the piston and cylinder.

Second motor was a lean burndown, piston skirt decided to explore outside of the motor.

I have a spare engine sitting in the shop to swap out for the next time. The motor is worth it, however I would rebuild every 2500 miles to avoid piston skirt failure if your running it hard as you should, sunday flatland riders probably see 5k miles no issue if they aren't pushing the motor.

sgsnyder1 · Feb 11, 2015

Pictures

Well I finally was able to get back to this. I haven't been able to open the lower end yet but I'll attach some pictures of the upper. Looks like the piston skirt came apart on the clutch side.

MT Backcountry · Feb 11, 2015

Skirt

Imagine that a piston skirt, Your going to be better off looking for a complete motor. I would contact Michele with Oregon Trail Motorsports she had one when I needed one and a little over $2000 to my door, BRAND NEW CRATE CAT MOTOR. Some places advertise complete but remove exh. valves and other items to same $. My 2 cents worth, Good Luck!!:face-icon-small-coo

Snwbiker · Feb 18, 2015

I have all the parts you need to fix it 100% right.
Pm me if you still need help.

MT Backcountry · Feb 18, 2015

New Motor Needed

The cost of rod bearings, pistons, cylinder(jug NEW), and Head. It would almost as much as a motor with a warranty from CAT. :face-icon-small-coo

550voyager · Feb 18, 2015

m1000?

will cat warranty a new m1000 crate motor?

kiliki · Feb 18, 2015

they use to for 30 days but now i don't think they do, call the dealer you picked it up from and ask?
did you blow up the new one?

MT Backcountry · Feb 18, 2015

I had 1 year WARRANTY with Michelle w' OTS. thought that's what all crate motors from cat had??

M1000 Engine Expertise Needed

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