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2007 M8 BAD lean condition (Help?)

mc2stroke

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Nov 27, 2007
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I have a 2007 M8 153" all stock except for a D&D -pipe and the ECU has the factory reprgramming. It has 3800 miles on it and has had zero changes since new except the top end was rebuilt at 3000 miles for maintanence (used OEM pistons).

engine seized on exhaust and intake side of (mag) piston. no wash on dome as compared to pto-suspect fuel delivery issue.

Here is the issue as noted by the mechanic-
engine is oiling fine
cooling system is fine as well.
No lights coming on, engine has a lean hiccup on accel occasionally and goes flat/lean at roughly 1/8 throttle on test stand.
installed egt to monitor exh temps while testing: 300 idle, up to 900-1000 at 1/8 throttle.
Coolant temp sender(.89K ohm-2.9K ohm)
TPS(.690-3.790)
Air temp sender-no fault,
Deto- no fault, baro sensor and tube,
Tried another known good ecm no difference
Dunk and pressure tested injectors
Pressure/smoke tested engine
Visually tore down and inspected entire intake/reeds/t-body/boots-all fine
Fuel pressure was 37psi, installed adjustable regulator kit and have upped pressure to 46psi-no noteable change.
Fuel Pump bypass volume tested well
Fuel pump running voltage is 16.4v steady
Runs the same with coolant temp sensor unplugged
Hi voltage tested stator pump coil-within spec

This is what I have done: I borrowed a friends 2009 M8 which shares a lot sensors as the 2007, so we decided swapoing some sensors to see if we were getting some false readings.
Swapped collant sensor- No change
Swapped pipe sensor- No change
Swapped air sensor- No change
Swapped throttle bodies- No change This was to eliminate the TPS sensor.
Note: the my 2007 and the 2009 shared the same "Square" symboled Throttle bodies. However the lean bog seemed to be enen worse but definitely not better.

The only think we can think of that is left to swap out is the main wire harness, BUT that will cost $600 and I would rather not spend the coin and be wrong.

Any suggestions? Something we missed CAT guys?

Need to figure this out ASAP....
Thank you,
Brent
 
Last edited:

kiliki

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check the wiring going to the injectors for rubs, if they short out the injector will run lean (not getting the correct voltage will = less fuel). also check the wire going into the injector and the back of the pin connection as the vibration will break them over time.
 

Griff

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Nov 26, 2007
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Two thoughts come to mind- fresh fuel and the pipe.
 

RACINSTATION

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You list open and closed voltage on tps, but what is idle voltage?

Based on what you are showing I would test stator, check for a sheared timing key, and check flywheel for magnetic de-lamination.

Good luck, you have nothing but time:face-icon-small-win
 
N
Oct 13, 2013
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Aberdeen SD
What elevation are you testing it at? I bought a sled from wyo with a D&D exhaust and the thing ran like crap at sea level around home, cutting out on long pulls and generally not running smoothly, i ended up buying a stock pipe and it ran much better with that on
 

WyoBoy1000

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What about reeds, reed can look good but be bad, as cheap as they are I would just change them with those miles.

plugs caps and wires still in good shape and cap screwed in.

wire harness.

FYI, if the brake wiring is messed up or you use it for a power source it can screw things up.

even hand warmers or other shorts. Unplug everything going to handle bars and see what happens.

What about proper throttle cable adjustment?

This is one you almost have to get your hands on to know, I didn't see a number on compression check.

servo motor (shouldn't matter at that spot but check cables for free movement and proper adjustment along with watching the servo work)

An option is to add a bd box or fuel controller to adjust low rpm. Cranking the fuel pressure at low rpm doesn't do much because the injectors only open for a short time. On the top end it makes a much bigger difference. I on some sleds 1-2 points on a bd box at 3000rpm low mid can make a big difference.

Check ground wires make sure they are all still connected and not broke.

Has anything else been done previously to this sled, anything at all. (handle bars, seat, newer steering post, anything list it.

Hook up voltage guage to the fuel pump and run it to see if voltage drops.
CCU?
Timing?

thats a start
 
F
Nov 26, 2007
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www.boondockers.com
I just so happen to have an 07 M8 with the D&D single pipe, but I have the higher compression 2010 head, don't think the ecu ever had the updated reflash (going to reflash this fall), and I'm running a boondocker box with an air/fuel gauge. I haven't ridden it much last few seasons (backup sled), but I remember under certain conditions the exhaust valves sometimes open early causing a bad bog/hesitation at low throttle (I can hear the engine sound change, indicating the valves are open when this happens). I remember removing a LOT of fuel in almost all the midrange and upper-midrange settings, and only added a couple of numbers in the highest settings just to be safe (original ecu mapping is quite rich). Also I put the stock silencer back on to quiet it down, no noticeable hp change. Sled seems to run better than most for that era, plan on keeping it for a while.
 
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