Aerocharger stumble

gsxr1k2 said:

Well I installed the new dolbec (3.5) and will be riding Sunday. I will try and pull some fuel out of the bottom end and will switch to AV gas mix with 110.

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Avgas mixed with 110 will give you about the same thing as straight 110 or avgas. 110 is like mon value of 105. Avgas I like 104. I would suggest 50 percent avgas to 91. At 10k you would be good with the boost you are running. You will notice a difference in how it idles and low end response by not running so much octane.

I was having exact same issue on my aero but on a doo but from roughly 5k-6k it would stumble real quick. Vanes were set at 2.75 turns in. It finally went away at 3.25 turns in 3 wasn't enough. Granted it's on a doo but it's completely gone now.

Aero

My suggestion would be to quit throwing money at a system that very few people have proper knowledge of. Save yourself a blown motor and lots of headaches and take the sled to a professional aerocharger dealer. I doubt
it's the controller, You may need the ecu mapped.

I have experience with those controllers. Yes, the controllers are garbage.

I ran an aerocharger turbo on my 12 pro last year. Had about the same stumbling issues you are talking about. I sold my aero kit this fall and am running a turbo performance kit now with the vipec. I will never go back to a piggyback controller. The vipec actually shows you where to add or take away fuel with the information from your data logs. Doesn't take long to figure out the vipec and you will be able to tune much faster and better with it.
Just my .02

If your making 7 seconds before going lean, maybe it's a fuel pressure or volume thing to your secondary fuel system..

If it's low pressure or lacking volume, it's not the dobec box issue..

Was with a boost it that had same issues, and was the garbage fuel pump...

That's frustrating as hell. Please give us a call in the office. If you've called before, call us again. 913-829-3400

The Aerocommander for RMKs is a different creature than the E-TEC. On the E-TEC, the first 3 modes emulate the jets on a carburetor: Mode 1: Green = Pilot Jet. Mode 2: Yellow = Needle. Mode 3: Red = Main Jet


The RMK is different:

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EDIT updated with a write-up provided by Dobeck Performance

RMK Aerocommander Programming Modes

Mode 1: Green - Adds or removes fuel from Idle to the Yellow range - it can remove up to 10% fuel, or add up to 20%. If the mode on the controller is set to Light Position 3, this will be stock fueling.

Mode 2: Yellow - Removes fuel from -30% to 0% to activate the sled's low rpm and high throttle position (all the way right, it is pulling no fuel. All the way left, it is pulling 30%.) This mode should rarely be active, but it can help clean up any stumbles in the bottom, or any lag before the turbo is spooled up. If the mode on the controller is set to Light Position 8, this will be stock fueling.

Mode 3: Red - Adds 0 to 15% fuel at 7000 rpm (high cruise to WOT trim on the stock injector). If this settings is too rich, there will be a bog when going from WOT to off then back to WOT. If the mode on the controller is set to Light Position 0.5, this will be stock fueling.

Mode 4: Green/Blue - Max boost fuel. This mode adjusts fuel for the auxiliary injector from 3ms to 8ms (37.5% to 100%.)

Mode 5: Yellow/Blue - This mode will adjust the sensitivity of the Yellow range turning on. Yellow should only be active when the throttle position is high and rpms are low at the same time (IE braapping around- short and fast throttle bursts). This mode is acting like an accelerator pump that will remove fuel. As soon as boost pressure is detected, this mode will be deactivated. The higher this is set towards Light Position 8, the more throttle movement needed to engage the yellow mode. The lower this is set, the less throttle movement it will take to activate the Yellow range.

Mode 6: Red/Blue - The red switch point. This adjusts when the controller detects boost. It is adjustable by 0.5 psi to the left, and 2 psi to the right. This mode will have a huge effect on the in and out of throttle at wide open as well. If pressure fuel comes in too early, then there will be a hesitation.

There is a balance between red & green/blue & red/blue to achieve a crisp clean in & out throttle.

Aerocharger's default RMK Aerocommander settings: (.5 = two lights flashing. If lights four and five are flashing together, it is 4.5):

Green: 4.5
Yellow: 4
Red: 3
Green/Blue: 4.5
Yellow/Blue: 6
Red/Blue: 5.5

Troubleshooting:
When the sled is running, the LEDs that are lit indicate the zones that are adding fuel. Light/Mid cruise are green LEDs. High cruise are Red LEDs. Anytime the controller sees boost, the eighth LED will display Blue. If the sled is having a running issue (any bog, hesitation, lean or rich condition), adjust the mode that is on when the condition happens.

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We can't 100% say there isn't an issue somewhere else in the system, but let's get the fuel controller set back to the baseline so we can help you get your sled working like it's supposed to.

Have you replace the AFR sender. I have this on a etec, chased my tail all day trying to tune it.
Change your fuel filter, and if you have done that I would plumb a fuel pressure guage into the fuel rail.

Aerocharger_jerry said:

That's frustrating as hell. Please give us a call in the office. If you've called before, call us again. 913-829-3400

The Aerocommander for RMKs is a different creature than the E-TEC. On the E-TEC, the first 3 modes emulate the jets on a carburetor: Mode 1: Green = Pilot Jet. Mode 2: Yellow = Needle. Mode 3: Red = Main Jet


The RMK is different:

Mode 1: Green - Adding Fuel above 4500 rpm
Mode 2: Yellow - Pulling fuel from -30 to 0% (all the way right, you're pulling no fuel. All the way left, you're pulling 30%.)
Mode 3: Red - Adding fuel to WOT

Mode 4: Green/Blue - Max boost fuel
Mode 5: Yellow/Blue - Bottom of the Yellow Switch Point (when it begins fueling for mid-range)
Mode 6: Red/Blue - The red switch point (when yellow switches off, and red kicks in)

The yellow/blue and Red/Blue define the yellow mode. (Mode 2)

If you're in and out of the throttle, you will want a wider yellow mode.
If you're blasting at WOT or trail cruising, you will want a narrow yellow mode (to avoid a lean condition.)

These are Aerocharger's default RMK Aerocommander settings (.5 = two lights flashing. If lights four and five are flashing together, it is 4.5):

Green: 4.5
Yellow: 4
Red: 3
Green/Blue: 3.5
Yellow/Blue: 6
Red/Blue: 2.5

We can't 100% say there isn't an issue somewhere else in the system, but let's get the fuel controller set back to the baseline so we can help you get your sled working like it's supposed to.

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OMG Its 2015 not 1915. Idle,needle,main. Does anyone other than Aero still use this thing? No wonder piggyback controllers get a bad name.

I have a 2011 with the aero charger kit. I had nothing but trouble with the dobeck "aerocommander" controller, with a similar stumble issue the first year. I went with the boost-it fuel controller and the sled ran flawless, very crisp bottom end for a turbo. Last year I fought a missing issue after ridding the sled for a couple of hours into the ride. Turned out to be in 2011 Polaris had some problems with the Walbro fuel pickup valves in the gas tank. Ordered The new listed part number for the fuel pick-up assembly and the sled was back to ripping.

I love the aero charger kit except for the IMHO dated dobeck fuel controller. It will keep me from ordering another aero kit until they adress the fuel controller.

It's to bad they are not selling turbos to guys like HM turbos anymore, that would be the route I would go now looking back on it all.

1800 miles on the set-up with the boost-it controller. Very VERY happy with Neil's XIC controller and excellent customer service.

I put HM Turbo kit on my 2010 800 RMK when the sled had 1 mile on it. I run 8-10psi @ 10,000 ft plus. From day one it did NOT like anything richer than 12.5 at WOT. Falls on its face. At cruising speeds it likes 15.0 - 16.0. I have never had an issue with my Dobeck controller. I will say that it runs way better on pump gas than race fuel. The race fuel burns way too slow and causes poor throttle response. Also i lost throttle response and found chipped reeds once after 1200 miles. The pistons looked like new on intake side when i had reeds removed and the exhaust side 7 top of pistons are like new still every time i remove power valves for inspection and cleaning. Compression and leak down is always spot on.
I will say... any controller or turbo kit is only as good as the installer/tuner. Soldier your connections and take your time. Shane @ HM Turbo sent me the clutch set up and i can honestly say, i didn't have to change a belt until 1000 miles of mountian riding & countless drag races. It was spot on.

You have probably done this but have you checked your fuel pressure?

I would check the fuel pump.

Are you running a rising rate fuel regulator with the Dobeck 3.5?

Who's program is in the 3.5