Series 6 2.6
- Thread starter hanson summit
- Start date
V
I thought it was the other way around? You are putting smaller drivers in the track which have to turn that much faster to cover the same ground making your odometer add more miles than was actually covered.
Help me out there then.
I looked at it the other way around.
When you gear down, your revs go up at slower speeds.
So when you are turning 8300 now, you aren't moving as fast as you used to be.
Think of your stick shift truck.
(and I'll make some nice easy to use numbers)
You are used to driving in 5th gear at 65mph at say 5000 RPM.
If you gear down and leave it 4th gear but try to drive 65mph, you are doing probably 5500 rpm now. You are over-revving.
So if you were to drive at 5500 4th gear, you certainly won't make it to 65mph. You'll be down in the 50s, somewhere probably.
Our RMKs are clutched to stop shifting out at say 8300, no matter the track speed.
Lower gear, you get that target RPM quickly, but you are NOT getting to your same MPH.
I looked at it the other way around.
When you gear down, your revs go up at slower speeds.
So when you are turning 8300 now, you aren't moving as fast as you used to be.
Think of your stick shift truck.
(and I'll make some nice easy to use numbers)
You are used to driving in 5th gear at 65mph at say 5000 RPM.
If you gear down and leave it 4th gear but try to drive 65mph, you are doing probably 5500 rpm now. You are over-revving.
So if you were to drive at 5500 4th gear, you certainly won't make it to 65mph. You'll be down in the 50s, somewhere probably.
Our RMKs are clutched to stop shifting out at say 8300, no matter the track speed.
Lower gear, you get that target RPM quickly, but you are NOT getting to your same MPH.
You sir, are right.
Exactly
V
Don't think of it as what gear you are in but what size tire you are running. This is the last time the drive train spins whether the tire is on the road or the driver is inside the track (assuming no track spin so the driver is effectively driving on the hard snow surface).
If you have a stock 30" tire on your truck and want to go for the big 33's, then you have effectively added 10% to the circumference of the "Driver" or tire. In the same gear at 55 mph (we all drive the speed limit right, although you are in MT, so throw that out the window in daylight hours) you will be turning the wheels fewer times to cover the same mile, in this case 10% fewer times. This is the same example but in reverse with the smaller driver. Your odometer is going to spin over 10% more revolutions than the stock driver.
Take driver pitch times the number of drive teeth on both sprockets, thus circumference of the driver. Divide the number of one into the other to give you the change in ground covered by one revolution. That is the same ratio your speedo/odometer will be off from the previous (stock?) setting if it was indeed correct to start with.
This is also why simply gearing a sled down in the chaincase/belt drive does not affect the speedometer but changing driver diameter does.
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N
Well technically changing gear ratio on the belt drive sleds does mess with the speedo, changing it on a chaincase sled does not. The Speedo Sensor is on the jackshaft on belt drive and on the clutch side of the driveshaft on chaincase sleds. At least this is true with a '12 chaincase and '13 belt drive, correct me if I'm wrong.
True back then, but all 16' models have the sensor on the brake disk now
A little confused.I hear the new 2.6 track will not work well in the 2014 & 2015 chassis. Not enough clearance. Will 2/10" really make that much of a clearance problem? What other differences are there between the 2.4 and 2.6?
My track and fun parts are sitting in the garage impatiently waiting for me to finish wheat harvest
I've heard the same thing...BUT... don't necessarily believe what you hear. :face-icon-small-con
That is with the stock 2011 - 2015 8-tooth Drivers. The stock 2.4" track is fairly tight... adding more lug, will compound things.
IMO...Switch out to 7 tooth, 2.86" pitch drivers if you are going to run the 2.6" track.
I see ZERO issues with the 2.6" track in the PRO-Ride chassis if you go with 8 tooth drivers.... You will actually pick up about 1/4" clearance with the 7 tooth & 2.6" track compared to the stock 2.4" track & 8 tooth.
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how much are those 2.6 polaris tracks? i wonder how they compare to the 2.6 powerclaw in the pro chassis?
I paid 820$ for my series 6 2.6
Anybody have any advice for clutching this thing. I'll be running an 858 big bore along with this track. I'll be geared down so I'm thinking a helix change will be in order.
Anybody have any advice for clutching this thing. I'll be running an 858 big bore along with this track. I'll be geared down so I'm thinking a helix change will be in order.
I believe there are 9 holes in the brake disk that the speed sensor works off of. Has anyone successfully closed off one of these holes to reduce the speedometer output to 8/9ths of its original reading in order to get the speedo a little closer after gearing?
id imagine its the spacing more than the amount of holes. if you closed one off it would probably just create a glitch much like a damaged reluctor wheel
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