Suspention help

The skid will not need to be adjusted for the new front end.

If you had the EXIT shocks made for a stock width A-arms to start with... and then went to the 36"-wide A-ams (or bought your exit shocks from someone and you don't know the exact length)

With the 36" front from Z-broz... the shocks must be 16.125" (410mm) - 16.250" (413mm) long

Stock shocks OR Aftermarket shocks made for the stock-width A-arms are 16.625" (16-5/8" or 422mm) ) length.


PLUS.

After you change ANY A-arms...including replacing a stock A-arm... you have to re-set your toe-in AND your Camber adjustment if you want to get the most out of the handling of the sled.

This will be even more apparent if you have more aggressive carbides and/or you travel at high speeds on the trail.

If your toe-in or Camber is off... or your ride-height is "jacked up" from using too long of shock...the sled will fee unpredictable.

All that being said... ANY narrow front end on a given sled will not be as stable as a wider front end on that same sled.... but the Z-Broz 36" front end is plenty stable and predictable.

Did you change the stock wear-bars (carbides) and/or are you running an aftermarket ski?


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On that note, however...

If you have played around with your shock setup on the rear skid... bring it back to stock settings for your weight (outlined in your manual) and work from there.

I see from your other posts that you have a Turbo... If you are trying to keep your front end down by jacking up the rear track shock preload... then your sled will be out of wack... coupling is a better solution.


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Darting etc you describe sounds more like a front end that is not right... not the rear suspension.

Exactly how are you setting the camber and the toe setting?

What specs are you using for this?

How much use do you have on your rear skid shocks since a full rebuild?

What wearbars or carbides are you running?
What skis?

Put your sled on its side... then set the front track shock shock preload by backing it out till loose... bring the nut back in contact with the spring...and give it 1-2 turns past.

Make sure that you lube the adjusters well and NEVER have the weight of the sled on them when you are adjusting.

Set your rear track shocks to the specs outlined in your owners manual or download this one. (pgs 50-54)
http://cdn.polarisindustries.com/polaris/common/parts-manuals/9923866r01_lo_res.pdf

Lastly... confirm that you ACTUALLY have ski shocks that measure 16.125"-16.250" when fully extended and weight off them....It wouldn't be the first time someone got the incorrect length shocks for their application.

1000 miles...

See this thread:
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=362420

Pull your skid Completely out of the sled... EASY job. .. disassemble it and clean all the old grease and "gunk"
Re-grease with correct grease (NOT Trailer grease or equipment grease)
See this thread:
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=312674&highlight=grease

Send in your shocks for service. For sure.
I recommend that you go with the TRS's setup on here...done by TRS himself or a top notch shop like GSR.
He uses a different RTS spring (key)
See this thread:
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?p=3836036

Easy time to replace the hyfax if worn more than half way (especially about 1/3 of the way back).
Then you can set the springs etc before install.

Are you running stock skis and wear-bars?

For the shocks.. I was refering to the ones in the skid.

Walker Evans and Raptor = big difference in quality... even/especially in the shock fluid used.

Would EXIT/RAPTOR/FOX have higher quality construction... for sure...but then again... you are paying for it.

If WE shocks... then have them serviced and I recommend updated.
Seems you have invested a good chunk of change in the front... but your rear can definitely use the attention.

Pull the skid, pull the shocks, disassemble the skid, re-lube, send in the shocks... assemble the skid to spec... and re-install... Have fun next season.

Read those links I've posted...lots of info there.

Your Exits on the front are probably OK. Get those done next summer.

I've been on quite a few 36" Z-broz setups... none of them "Dart" or track strangely.
Yes, on any given sled... a narrow front is a bit "tippy-er" than a wider front... but that's what you're going for with the narrow.

Good luck....I'm sure you'll get it sorted.