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Watercross Pro RMK

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DM116

Member
Jan 5, 2008
68
22
8
42
Here is my 2013 Pro RMK watercross build.


Custom 30" front end.
146" cobra
146" Ice age rails
Walker Evans air shocks (front)
Custom C&A Pro Minis
Raptor rear springs.
It will have a Dennis Durmas made tank, the same as on Keith Curtis turbo.
Soon to have a Arctic FX Custom wrap.

photo (4).jpg photo (5).jpg photo (6).jpg
 

FatDogX

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Dec 27, 2008
3,307
1,578
113
ND
So in other words.......................................the U.S.S. Pro !!
 
D

DM116

Member
Jan 5, 2008
68
22
8
42
all the pans get siliconed up, and my vents are covered up on the left side. I rode it today and it worked awesome!
 
D

DM116

Member
Jan 5, 2008
68
22
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42
I will get some for you, but it basically any area that will allow water to come through you try to seal up. I had Mike Taylor build me a set of footwell vents with no vents in them (solid Plastic) to seal the footweels. I made aluminum plates for my running board to block off them. All belly pan pieces are siliconed inside and outside to the bulkhead, I used a SLP nose cone block plate ad siliconed that up to seal the huge hole in the front, Sealed the two holes in the bulkhead. The hood has all left side vents sealed.
 
D

DM116

Member
Jan 5, 2008
68
22
8
42
Sled worked great! qualified 4th for the Pro Stock final. had a little bad luck in the final and the side panel got dislodged in super rough chop and forced me to pull in early so I finished 6th. A few more hood strap and the Pro will be on the podium in 2 weeks. Here are a few pics

Pro rmk Water.jpg pro rmk hole shot.jpg pro rmk hole shot 2.jpg Pro RMK moose lake final.jpg
 
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roni87

Well-known member
Feb 11, 2011
513
213
43
I Falls, MN
Does the fuel injection get a little cranky when you sink it? Carbs would be pretty easy to get the water out fast, but I could imagine efi is a bit tricky.
 
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theultrarider

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
3,311
891
113
Soldotna Alaska
We tend to run a lot of open water here all winter. River crossings, to get to the good stuff. Stock, they suck!!! The belly pan seam that is directly under the clutches does not seal up worth a damn. The second your left ski touches the water you start slipping the belt. Pull both clutches off and clean that seam up real well with brake cleaner so that the silicone will stick. Try to work the silicone into the seam to the point it comes out under the sled. Then lay a bead from underneath it as well. Many of our sled we even had to drill a couple more holes to add a couple more rivets to keep it tight. I also added a set of Mike Taylors vent. End of wet belt issues. I also use duct tape to seal off the open holes in the burandt boards or yet take a bath of water coming up through them. Thus caked with ice all up and down your body the rest of the day. Peel the tape off once we get past the end of the river crossings so they shed snow all day. Then usually don't bother to tape them up when I head back to the truck unless its chit cold out.
 
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DM116

Member
Jan 5, 2008
68
22
8
42
Does the fuel injection get a little cranky when you sink it? Carbs would be pretty easy to get the water out fast, but I could imagine efi is a bit tricky.

SO far teh EFu works better than carbs (although I have only sunk once) with carbs you have to drain the float bowl, on the EFI there is nothing to drain. Drain the motor, put fresh gas, and pull the rope. Started first pull.
 
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