Gates G force 44G4553 Belt for Pro

The G is the standard belt which would work as a spare. If you find the C (same number as the G except has the C) that is the carbon fiber belt.
it would be around a hundred give or take 10 bucks depending where you get it from. I like the gates C belt better than the Polaris belt.

There actually are many threads on them. I still have a few new ones available also, as I've updated my sleeve angle and need to run the 45 instead. PM me if you want to work out a deal.

http://www.snowest.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-410321.html

http://www.snowest.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-404270.html

http://www.snowest.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-402821.html

LoudHandle said:

There actually are many threads on them. I still have a few new ones available also, as I've updated my sleeve angle and need to run the 45 instead. PM me if you want to work out a deal.

http://www.snowest.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-410321.html

http://www.snowest.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-404270.html

http://www.snowest.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-402821.html

Click to expand...

Any adjustment needed for fit?

Here are the high points for those too lazy to read the links

no_uh said:

Any adjustment needed for fit?

Click to expand...

That all depends on your sled, I have not seen it to verify clutch alignment / overall condition, at a minimum the deflection should be checked / adjusted whenever you change any belt;

1) check / verify condition of your engine mounts
2) check / verify belt alignment and offset
3) check / verify proper sheave to belt clearance
4) clutching is balanced and not fighting each other, and also not slipping anywhere in the shift either

That is why I said "this belt will tell you if your clutching is off" it will not tolerate shoddy clutching or the absence of proper care / maintenance.


Here are quotes from TRS in the threads I posted links to.

Polaris recommends a 50mi break in period for the 115 belt. They also publish specs for center to center, lead in, offset, belt deflection and float that must be adhered to for proper belt wear and longevity.

Belt break in is critical to the longevity of a carbon belt, a 10 minute heat soak of a new belt followed by a complete cool down should be adequate.

A reminder to carbon belt users, these are not the belts of old. You cannot turn them inside out, roll them up for storage, use them for ski brakes or abuse them. You will break the cords destroying the belt in return causing low mileage belt failures.

Offset is the critical denominator here. Next is lead in. Proper center to center is more of a performance gain. Center to center measurements, short or long can be adjusted for through your secondary in relation to belt deflection.

I use Dayco XTX5020 belts on my sleds. Has performed better for me than the 1115 Polaris belt. They can be had for about $83 on Amazon. You can also get them at Fleet Farm for about the same price.

I got a "C"-belt last winter an put it on and my sled over-revved like crazy with it on, seemed it was a lot harder compound in it making less traction to the clutches. Took it off after just a while and put it in the back of a shelf in the shop....
Anyone else getting this result?

LoudHandle said:

There actually are many threads on them. I still have a few new ones available also, as I've updated my sleeve angle and need to run the 45 instead. PM me if you want to work out a deal.

http://www.snowest.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-410321.html

http://www.snowest.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-404270.html

http://www.snowest.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-402821.html

Click to expand...

So with the updated angles (i think carls and indy both do this?) then you should run the 45 belt? Is the angle changed on the primary only? my sled was from carls so i assume it had the update but i have also gone to a different secondary clutch and had the primary in for work at patricks custom carbon so not really sure where the angle sits now.