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Inner tunnel wrap kit?

Mr. Pump Gas

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Does anyone make one that is die-cut around the coolers, etc ? For the '12-'15 PRO chassis?

Looking for best options to keep the snow off the inner tunnel and easiest installation. Thanks!
 

SRXSRULE

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I'm going to do mine this fall too. Only one way to find out if its going to work :)

Just cutting my own material. Left over race car wrap material that ive had great results with on the sides on the tunnel. Eric
 

mountainhorse

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IMO...Wrapping inside the tunnel... besides a heavy cleaning with a strong degreaser like Super Clean... there will be a lot of surface oil and dirt embedded into the aluminum.

I would use 3M Wrap Primer (3M #94) and apply it to at least a 1" border around all the vinyl... if not the whole piece of aluminum.

That vinyl will take a lot of abuse... best to have it stick really well.

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Primer-Pint-Wrapping-Application/dp/B0088P1LNY

http://www.amazon.com/Primer-94-Dauber-Applicator-Bottle/dp/B0093MRGA8

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/120977415877


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gman086

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Kewl thread - I've been thinking of doing this for some time. I had my bump-and-jump Gade's rear extension powder coated on the inside with a ceramic/silicone coating from Finish Line that they've used to keep salt off of race cars at the salt flats. Worked amazingly well at preventing snow build up! There was a guy marketing a spray coating (a one component epoxy ester?) last year and was thinking of masking off the heat exchangers and spraying the rest of the underside with it. Would certainly be the easiest route! Anyone have any feedback on that product? I believe it was called something like "Snow Off"?

Have FUN!

G MAN
 

LoudHandle

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For that kind of coin you can have either RockWest Composites or Dragon Plate Carbon fiber sheet cut to your dimensions and install the same way, or glue it, or both glue and rivets. Stronger and lighter than the cheap / weak 5052 aluminum and no snow to stick to it ever, not to mention the cool factor.

That is the route I'm going on my builds, I have contacted both and RockWest is slightly cheaper and water jet cuts the sheet, while Dragon Plate uses a router.

Also if you are going to put CF skin in there you may as well go the full 1/16" stuff and get rid of the Aluminum altogether. IMO
 
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BILTIT

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LoudHandle-whats the cost from them for the proper sized sheet for between the coolers?

I have debated this option but i have never seen a whole lot of build up in this spot. Mostly i see the rails/suspension holds a lot and the rear foot board mounts seem to ice up aswell.
 

mountainhorse

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I'd still recommend the primer in a high abuse area like the inside of a tunnel (dirt/rocks/ice/track) ....I think only $13 delivered from the Amazon link.

Like paint... adhesion is all about the prep.

That being said... there is a lot of value in just gettiing it done!!:face-icon-small-win




wash it with brake cleaner apply it's cheep and works great
 

LoudHandle

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LoudHandle-whats the cost from them for the proper sized sheet for between the coolers?

I have debated this option but i have never seen a whole lot of build up in this spot. Mostly i see the rails/suspension holds a lot and the rear foot board mounts seem to ice up aswell.

I did not price the individual pieces. I was just going to buy the full sheet and have them cut all my parts out for the tunnel top, sides, and bulkhead floor. Depending on which place and what the sheet layup particulars are, price is about a grand. I did not hash out the cutting charge because whatever it is, it is far cheaper than shipping the full sheet to Alaska.
 
S

SU27

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May 4, 2013
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types of vinyl

Attention to people who want inner tunnel wrap done:
There are 2 main types of vinyl on market: cast and pro calendared.
Cast vinyl is stable when applied to a surface. It harbours no tension, whereas calendared vinyl harbours up to 25%. Calendared vinyl is made by processing a mass of vinyl through rollers and stretching it over hundreds of feet. Therefore when applied to a curved surface such as a car, calendared vinyl will shrink back causing curling and other issues.
In contrast, cast vinyl starts off as a liquid and is poured onto a sheet and baked. This means the cast was never stretched to begin with and will stay in place for the life of the vinyl. When cast vinyl is accidentally creased or stretched, you can heat it and it will return to its original form without creases or stretch marks.
What all this means - cast vinyl is preferrable for flat or near to flat surface applications. It`s thick. Hell yeah, its thick. It has very good structural strength, and ideal for hard working surfaces. You won't be able to go around rivets though, so you need to cut holes for them.

You do want cast vinyl for this application.
 
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