About ready to take a match to my M1000 Running out of ideas

shuttlevalve · Mar 1, 2015

I have 150 miles on my rebuilt M1000 and 2300 on the chassis. after the engine gets up to operating temp the idle will drop low and when you hit the gas the engine will bog. if you feather it enough it will finally build up rpm or some times you get lucky and pin it and it will bog for a second then recover. Once its about 4500ish Rpms it seems normal and runs strong.
The Mods:
SLP pipe and Intake
RK tek ported
PC5 (A lot of map changes tried)
MDS weights.(Runs 78-7900)
It had new pistons/porting, crank repair during the overhaul. The plugs are black and wet. Fuel pressure is reading 42-43 on the BDX gauge. The guy riding behind me on the trail said every time I hit the gas it looks like punching a diesel.
So far I have-
-Sent out the injectors flowed and cleaned - they were pretty bad (sled sat for 2 years before I bought it), but it didn't help.
-Tried all kinds of tweaks to the map and it doesn't seem to help even cleaned out the map from 4500 and lower.
-Pulled the Power commander out of the system and ran it on the base computer and it made no difference.
-I checked the TPS adjustment and viewed that it was tracking with the throttle with the lap top plugged in.

All the ideas I have left cost a lot for trouble shooting.
-Bad computer
-Reed valves (The stock ones looked fine but who knows)
-TPS sensor is breaking down once its hot maybe thinking the throttle is pinned at low RPM? maybe I could check, but I would have to go mess around on the mountain getting it hot plugging in a lap top after starts acting up.

shuttlevalve · Mar 1, 2015

Its so bad my wife gave me the Ok to go buy a Polaris (clearing them out cheap around here) she's tired of me coming home P*ssed Off.

shanderson62 · Mar 1, 2015

I have almost the same mods on my 08 m1k. I also have a rkt head on it. I have been chasing the same problem. runs on what seems like one cylinder until it reaches about 4500 rpm. I have a bd box with egt and also wideband. Very rich in the bottom. Can't clean it up with the bd box. I think the slp pipe does not like Kelseys porting, or visa versa. Even though Kelsey said his porting will work with the slp pipe I think I will be putting my stock cylinders back on.

shanderson62 · Mar 1, 2015

Maybe ask your wife if she will buy you a polaris and get me a 2016 cat?? :face-icon-small-hap

0neoldfart · Mar 1, 2015

My experience...

I vented the crap out of my airbox - added one on each side, two on the bottom (cut holes in the belly). helped a lot on clearing up the low end stumble. My reeds were screwed at 1100 miles, put rage cages in at that time, too. The 1000 tends to heat soak the intake air, so any cold air you can give it, the better off you are.

kiliki · Mar 1, 2015

pull your full psi down to 38-40 but you will need to make map adjustmens on the top. the m1k doesn't need a lot of fuel on the low side. you could have a pressure regulator with a sticky spot.
also clutching out of wack will do the same thing.

Sledbrain2 · Mar 2, 2015

Kind of shooting in the dark here, AC has numerous problems with stators over the years, (I had93,99,02,06) all had a stator replaced. If you had a buddies sled to pull and see it that takes care of it would be the easiest. The other options is to just get it re-wound and see if that fixes it. At 2300 miles I would say a re-wound stator is almost preventive maintenance on a Cat. Is your exhaust side vented? Excessive heat is what takes them out. Many of stators will check out fine but still give you running issues similar to what you are describing. Good luck,

MT Backcountry · Mar 2, 2015

Reed Valves

My guess is worn out reed valves as they can look good and be light on the tension and don't hold pressure. My 2 cents

shuttlevalve · Mar 14, 2015

kiliki said:
pull your full psi down to 38-40 but you will need to make map adjustmens on the top. the m1k doesn't need a lot of fuel on the low side. you could have a pressure regulator with a sticky spot.
also clutching out of wack will do the same thing.

Went back and looked at the fuel pressure again and it was sitting at 38 psi!! at idle. The problem is getting progressively worse i'm thinking I have a fuel pump messing up. It was warmed up on the trailer and if you tapped the gas= it was bogging and had to feather it to gain RPM. The Laptop was plugged in and the auto tune o2 was up to temp at idle it was idling at 1250 -1500 the o2 was reading 17 to 1 on the computer. The cells it was running in I put in 25 up from 4 and the thing idled up 250 rpms and seemed smoother and the O2 was showing 14 to 1 AFR. I seemed to be acting rich, with the wet plugs and no piston wash. maybe I'M just not getting consistent fuel pressure and its messing with the computer? Anyone have a known good pump I could pick up?

kiliki · Mar 14, 2015

fuel pump
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Walbro-Arct...Parts_Accessories&hash=item35af495702&vxp=mtr

shuttlevalve · Mar 14, 2015

kiliki said:
fuel pump
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Walbro-Arct...Parts_Accessories&hash=item35af495702&vxp=mtr

Ended up ordering a pump assembly new from cat country overstock for 159.00 just have to hook up the fuel pickups.

kiliki · Mar 14, 2015

shuttlevalve said:
Ended up ordering a pump assembly new from cat country overstock for 159.00 just have to hook up the fuel pickups.

NICE JOB! most of the time you can't get one for less than 300.

kiliki · Mar 14, 2015

shuttlevalve said:
Ended up ordering a pump assembly new from cat country overstock for 159.00 just have to hook up the fuel pickups.

NICE JOB! most of the time you can't get one for less than 300.

lots of the time the pressure regulator gets sticky

shuttlevalve · Mar 14, 2015

kiliki said:
NICE JOB! most of the time you can't get one for less than 300.

lots of the time the pressure regulator gets sticky

Well with the injectors we nasty so I suppose the pump wouldn't be and much better shape.

WyoBoy1000 · Mar 15, 2015

Well if that doesn't fix it?

Mine would do something like that, couldn't figure it out. Took off power commander and used bd box and never happened again. Found out there where about 10 others that did the same.

shuttlevalve · Mar 15, 2015

Thought about the pcv, but I disconnected it and hooked direct to the computer and it was still doing it.

shuttlevalve · Mar 15, 2015

shuttlevalve said:
Well with the injectors we nasty so I suppose the pump wouldn't be and much better shape.

Shoot, I just recalled about 10 years ago I put a pump in my 2002 zr800efi and it ended up being smart valve pickups!! I must have been getting bad gas and the pickup screens had rust plugging them up. Ended up getting towed 50 miles for that one.

backcountryislife · Mar 15, 2015

Can't say I've ever seen a 1000 with SLP & PCV run right around here. I've seen 5 or 6 of them and never seen one that went from bottom to mid without issues.

If you don't figure something else out, lose the stupid pipe... not worth the headache imo.

tatorsalad · Mar 15, 2015

Take the pcv off and see if it runs right my m-1000 would not run at idle or just off with the pcv

sleddude · Mar 15, 2015

If the fuel pump doesnt fix it I'd say it was the stator. I just had one fail in my 09 M8 and it would start running terrible when warmed up. It did however throw a code on the ECU so it's something to check. They're selling new startors on ebay for 170 bucks, ya made in china but if you have to start throwing parts at a sled why not start cheap. My sled runs the best it ever has with that new "cheap" stator. Lol

About ready to take a match to my M1000 Running out of ideas

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