My son was riding the m-7 yesterday and it just died. We pulled on it a little it doesn't even sound like it wants to pop. So we just pulled it back. Any ideas on where to start looking?
2006 M-7 died
- Thread starter mightymoko
- Start date
B
If you pull your plugs and add a little starter fluid, you can determine if your problem is fuel, spark, or compression. If it fires up after putting stater fluid in and replacing the plugs, you know your problem is fuel related.
Could be many things, of coarse check the usual stuff but before throwin parts at it Check the wiring harness connector at the ecm. We spent most of a season tryin to get a buddies sled running including a new stator, coils etc. And it turned out that the connector was melted between two wires allowing them to short together. We fixed that and it's been good since
W
A quick test to look for electrical problems is to pull the plug on the ECU and smell it. If it smells burned you have an electrical short. The most common are the taillight wire, the handlebar warmers or the speedometer pickup. If it's not burned your problem is somewhere else.
Update
Ok I have no spark I disconnected everything on the handlebars still no spark. Disconnected the taillight connector up by the main wiring before it goes into the tunnel still no spark. I have the connector apart from the coil. I have no ohms reading on the wires coming from the ECU. The wires coming right of the coil read 1.1 ohms. The manual I have is confusing me. It says to hook to the black/orange and the orange/black and they have a picture showing hooking to the wires off of the coil. The coil wires are just orange and black not the black/orange and orange/black. The black/orange and orange/black come from the ECU. Now that I have everyone confused should the resistance of 0.25-.036 ohms be on the wires from the ECU or the wire from the coil itself. If I have no readings coming from the ECU on the black/orange and orange/black is that telling me stator? Any help is appreciated.
Ok I have no spark I disconnected everything on the handlebars still no spark. Disconnected the taillight connector up by the main wiring before it goes into the tunnel still no spark. I have the connector apart from the coil. I have no ohms reading on the wires coming from the ECU. The wires coming right of the coil read 1.1 ohms. The manual I have is confusing me. It says to hook to the black/orange and the orange/black and they have a picture showing hooking to the wires off of the coil. The coil wires are just orange and black not the black/orange and orange/black. The black/orange and orange/black come from the ECU. Now that I have everyone confused should the resistance of 0.25-.036 ohms be on the wires from the ECU or the wire from the coil itself. If I have no readings coming from the ECU on the black/orange and orange/black is that telling me stator? Any help is appreciated.
B
If you are testing resistance, then you should be checking the coil side of the connector. That is the primary side of the coil. But if you have no spark at either cylinder it most likely not a coil. Rare to have both fail at the same time. On the Ecm side of that connector you could put a test light between the 2 wires and it should flicker when pulling it over. I dont have my manual in front of me but one wire will be power and one a pulsing ground (to fire the coil). If the test light doesn't flash, find out what you are missing. The power or ground.
Then I need to break out the manual to go from there.
Then I need to break out the manual to go from there.
D
First thing it to check the stators resistance numbers. Just unplug the connector and ohm out the wire combos needed. You should be able to find the specs on here.
On my buddies sled everything appeared normal visibly, it wasn't until I started pulling individual wires out of the ecm connector one at a time that we noticed the problem. The plastic connector itself was melted between two of the pins allowing them to arc together but appeared fine on the outside. Not saying this for sure the problem, but somethin that is hard to catch if it is.
W
[FONT="]2 charge coils:[/FONT][FONT="]
black w/ red to green w/ red 13.6 - 20.4 ohms
brown w/ white to green w/ red 13.6 - 20.4 ohms
Unplug the main harness. Big Gray connector. These wires are going to the Stator. Not the side going to the ECU.[/FONT]
black w/ red to green w/ red 13.6 - 20.4 ohms
brown w/ white to green w/ red 13.6 - 20.4 ohms
Unplug the main harness. Big Gray connector. These wires are going to the Stator. Not the side going to the ECU.[/FONT]
Hey, Everybody this is what I have for readings.
Charge Coil (1) 13.6-20.4 ohms black/red green/red----------82.9
Charge Coil (2) 13.6-20.4 ohms brown/white green/red------15.9
Lighting Coil 0.08-0.12 ohm yellow yellow---------------------.3
Ignition Timing Sensor 152-228 ohms green/white brown----95.6
Injection Coil 15.2-22.8 ohms blue/white blue/white----------18.4
Fuel Pump Coil 1.52-2.28 ohms orange orange----------------2.1
Unless I'm missing something I think I need a new stator.
Thanks for all the replies. I'm always open to more advice.
S
Looks like, at least you have found an issue most times the stator will check out with in specs. My M7 just quit over the summer, re wound stator fired right up. I used a company out of CA, I think I paid 350.00 to get it re-wound probably can find a cheaper place.
I didn't see this mentioned yet, but make sure the ground that hooks to the chassis on the Mag side is connected. Its a ring terminal that slides over the one of the bolts for the steering hoop with a jam nut to tighten it down. Just a quick check that eliminates that. Not sure if that would have an effect on stator readings, but worth looking at before dropping some coin on a new stator.
Yea, that is a good point I'll check it out.
Thanks and if you're tired of that snowest sled yet you can pass it down to me. :face-icon-small-hap
I think I'm going to give rm stator a try. For two hundred bucks it's worth a shot. Thanks
One more thing
Had a guy tell me the stator might have also screwed up the voltage regulator when it went out. Anybody experience this? Should I replace the voltage regulator and the coil or do you think I am okay with just the stator? I just don't want to screw up the new stator. If either one of those are bad will it screw up the stator or will that just be another step to getting it running?
Thanks again
Had a guy tell me the stator might have also screwed up the voltage regulator when it went out. Anybody experience this? Should I replace the voltage regulator and the coil or do you think I am okay with just the stator? I just don't want to screw up the new stator. If either one of those are bad will it screw up the stator or will that just be another step to getting it running?
Thanks again
W
I would replace the voltage regulator. They make a big difference on these sleds.
Running again
Got the new stator in
Two pulls fired right up.
Thanks everyone for all the replies.
Got the new stator in
Two pulls fired right up.
Thanks everyone for all the replies.
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