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M1000 Suspension

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digger18

Member
Feb 22, 2009
214
11
18
45
Otsego MN
So getting back into sledding. Last sled I had was a 2010 M8 153. That sled was so easy to side hill and do powder turns and all that. I bought a 08 m1000 BD Turbo 163. Was out west last week with it. Well big difference. Had to work so hard to get it to go in its side. I know there's a weight difference and all but wow was there a difference. Anyone have any set ups that can get it to be more like the m8 I had? At least somewhat like it lol. Love the power. That's for sure. Just need it to get on its side a lot easier and stay there. I had a 08 m1000 153 that I didn't ride much as it was a back up but from what I remember that thing was even easy to side hill and such.
 

ultrasks700

Well-known member
Premium Member
Jul 7, 2009
462
172
43
39
MAINE
Give us a break down on what the current suspension set up is on your sled(ie floats, zeropros, ect) and I'm sure we can help. if the front shock tension is to high it might be one of your issues, what spacer position are the skis in?
 
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digger18

Member
Feb 22, 2009
214
11
18
45
Otsego MN
??

Give us a break down on what the current suspension set up is on your sled(ie floats, zeropros, ect) and I'm sure we can help. if the front shock tension is to high it might be one of your issues, what spacer position are the skis in?

Sorry. Thought I had added all that. Has Fox Floats. Front shocks I tried 45-80 psi. 75psi seemed to help. Rear is at 130. Spacers inside of ski. I could not get confrontable on this sled like I was on m m8. I wouldn't second guess going up any hillside. Some of it might be I haven't rode for 4 years but still. I know there added weight being a 1000 with the turbo on it. I am 6'2" 270 pounds.
 
B
Nov 26, 2007
407
57
28
Lake Tapps, Wa
Alot of it is the difference between the 162 and 153. I have both and the difference is very noticable. Try crankig up the preload on the center skid shock, skis around 50 to 60, and maybe around 120 on the rear float. The transfer on the longer track is a little less but you can still get it there. Limiter straps all the way out?
 
T

TRUEBLUEMAX

Well-known member
Aug 4, 2010
751
280
63
Hooper, Utah
75 in the ski shocks is pretty high. I'd try 65 and see how it goes. I would make sure and check the front skid shock also. I had the preload nuts come loose on mine once and back off all the way and the front end rode really heavy. I'd make sure the preload on that is 2/3-3/4 through the thread travel up the shock.


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boondocker97

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Oct 30, 2008
4,074
2,792
113
Billings MT
I rode a NA 2009 M1000 for a couple seasons and am the same weight and height as you are. Here's where I ended up:

Front skis: 75-80psi If you drop the pressure too low the sled sits too low and drops the center of gravity, which in turn makes the sled harder to pull over after the initial compression of the shock. Your turbo adds weight to the front as well (until you are on the boost anyway).

Rear suspension front arm: There is a hole in the backing plate inside the tunnel where the front arm mounts that is 3/4" below the stock mounting location. Drill this out and move the arm mount down. This will help decrease ski pressure and make the sled feel more nimble. Set the spring preload so there is 1-1 1/4" of threads showing on the shock body below the preload rings. Limiter straps all the way out.

Rear track shock: 140-150psi depending on snow conditions for the day.

I've ridden some people's M-sleds who where running lower air pressures and they just did not want to hold a consistent edge for me. This chassis seems to do better when it's being held up out of the snow IMO. Even on a 2011 M8 153 I end up with 75psi up front and 140-145 out back. I also ride pretty aggressively down the trail so the extra pressure ends up helping me in that department as well.
 
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digger18

Member
Feb 22, 2009
214
11
18
45
Otsego MN
Set up

I rode a NA 2009 M1000 for a couple seasons and am the same weight and height as you are. Here's where I ended up:

Front skis: 75-80psi If you drop the pressure too low the sled sits too low and drops the center of gravity, which in turn makes the sled harder to pull over after the initial compression of the shock. Your turbo adds weight to the front as well (until you are on the boost anyway).

Rear suspension front arm: There is a hole in the backing plate inside the tunnel where the front arm mounts that is 3/4" below the stock mounting location. Drill this out and move the arm mount down. This will help decrease ski pressure and make the sled feel more nimble. Set the spring preload so there is 1-1 1/4" of threads showing on the shock body below the preload rings. Limiter straps all the way out.

Rear track shock: 140-150psi depending on snow conditions for the day.

I've ridden some people's M-sleds who where running lower air pressures and they just did not want to hold a consistent edge for me. This chassis seems to do better when it's being held up out of the snow IMO. Even on a 2011 M8 153 I end up with 75psi up front and 140-145 out back. I also ride pretty aggressively down the trail so the extra pressure ends up helping me in that department as well.


I noticed the same thing with the front end if shocks have low pressure for me anyways. Will try with dropping the skid down. Seems there is mixed opinions about doing that but can always put it back.
 
1

1000cat

Member
Apr 27, 2002
78
11
8
kent wa
M1000

Drill the hole in the tunnel and drop the skid down the skid in the front great mod and it is free.i don't like the float shocks either top short or to firm.then it's all about cash for shocks.
 
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