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CAUTION: Read this if powering ANY electrical accessories on your PRO.

mountainhorse

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NOTE:
NOVEMBER 14, 2014
This setup may not provide correct voltage as pointed out by 429dhm.

Until more info can be found... I do NOT recommend that this full wave/capacitor setup be used.

I stick to my comments in the first post.



I've received a few PM's that said that the image is not showing up.

Lets try this one.

picture.php




Mating connector for "ACC PWR" at clutch guard bundle... TYCO #1-480305-0
Mouser #

Pins for connector (order a couple of extras)
TYCO # 60620-1
Mouser

Bridge Rectifier
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-Semiconductors/GBPC3506-E4-51/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtQ8nqTKtFS%2fMRt2%2f0z7BctjwDV6a42HMg%3d

Capacitor
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Cornell-Dubilier/CGS572U050R3C/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMukHu%252bjC5l7YUNjjiC3kA6Gg6i%2fOk%2fNHnE%3d

Nice fuse blocks (look around the site... they have lots of good wiring stuff... vinyl tube to protect wires, connectors etc)
http://www.cycleterminal.com/fuse-boxes.html

These are also a nice clean fuse block on Ebay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/291076954623

NOTE:
NOVEMBER 14, 2014
This setup may not provide correct voltage as pointed out by 429dhm.

Until more info can be found... I do NOT recommend that this full wave/capacitor setup be used.

I stick to my comments in the first post.
 
Last edited:

live2beel

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I am installing a MTNK Blow Hole on a 14 Pro. The directions say to pluginto Dc power by the left shock tower. Is this a bad idea?
 

live2beel

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Thanks. I will call them . You would think they would include this if this will harm the system:face-icon-small-fro If you buy a factory accessory from Polaris, where do they tell you to plug it in?
 
Last edited:

mountainhorse

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They plug it in in the same place I plug mine into.
https://www.mtntkperformance.com/accessories/acdc-rectifier

IF you are running more accessories than ONLY the blowhole... I highly recommend that you run this system outlined above. With a full wave rectifier, capacitor and fuses.. ESPECIALLY if you are putting a motor load in the same place you are tapping into for the AFR and control box.

I made it pretty easy in the post above to "click and order" for the members... All you need are some basic wiring skills to pull it off.

If you are just running the blow hole... put a fuse on the (+) side.

Regardless of what is said by mfgs of aftermarket products... I belive VERY strongly that you should never use the "DC PWR" connector, which is ONLY for ECU testing, to power up ANY electrical devices.


Good luck.
 
J

jerrydecoy

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I've looked over this thread but I apologize if this question has already been answered. My dobeck box is wired into the fused dc acc supply where it should be but my oil pump is wired into the unfused dc power supply. Since they both pull from the same source could I just add a 2 amp inline fuse to the oil pump side of that connector and leave it wired the way it is?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

diamonddave

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I've looked over this thread but I apologize if this question has already been answered. My dobeck box is wired into the fused dc acc supply where it should be but my oil pump is wired into the unfused dc power supply. Since they both pull from the same source could I just add a 2 amp inline fuse to the oil pump side of that connector and leave it wired the way it is?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




You really shouldn't do this on a Pro. Yes it can be done but it isn't a good way. You are robbing power from the ECM to power these items and there just isn't enough power to properly run these items off the DC side.

The best way to do this would be to do it the Eric has outlined and run your DC items off of the AC side with a rectifier.

If you don't want to purchase the items Eric has shown, then a simple way would be to purchase the AC/DC rectifier from MTNTK for $19.95. This will allow you to plug into the AC side of the sleds and then use the DC output of this rectifier for your oil pump and other items.
 

mountainhorse

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NOTE:
NOVEMBER 14, 2014
This setup may not provide correct voltage as pointed out by 429dhm.

Until more info can be found... I do NOT recommend that this full wave/capacitor setup be used.

I stick to my comments in the first post.
 

mountainhorse

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Here is what I put up on the other thread in the "PRO RIDE" section.


NOTE:
NOVEMBER 14, 2014
The setup, above, may not provide correct voltage as pointed out by 429dhm.

Until more info can be found... I do NOT recommend that my setup, above, be used.

I stick to my comments in the first post.

429... you bring up a good point. (bottom most drawings/info)
Wondering about "Peak" VS "AVG" DC output voltage??

Finding something like a LM7912 Linear VR BUT with higher amp capacity OR a zener may be needed to bring it down in voltage... and be simple.

Or maybe a simple 10-20amp "buck converter"
Like this one
http://www.ebay.com/itm/301391726562
With an input range of 9-35vdc and output current capacity of 20amp
Small size, 3"x3"x1.25"
This in conjunction with the Full-wave rectifier and capacitor would give you a very stable, near-pure 12V DC supply.
mfnNKmSeAdLjpxyhmKSVb6A.jpg



PONDERING THIS::face-icon-small-dis

Too tired to ponder/study tonight.
http://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/diode/diode_6.html
???








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Last edited:

mountainhorse

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MD... Dave should be able to give some good readings on the MTNTK unit... that will read differently than a FWR with Capacitor most likely.

I don't have a running machine at my disposal right now to take readings unfortunately.:face-icon-small-dis (and wont for at least a week)

The system that you have MAY or not give you the right voltage level... even though it will be "Clean DC".

Here is the dwg for the system with a DC/DC converter that will regulate the output voltage to a very steady, clean 12V DC that will run all of your accessories very well.


attachment.php



"buck converter"
Like this one
http://www.ebay.com/itm/301391726562
With an input range of 9-35vdc and output current capacity of 20amp
Small size, 3"x3"x1.25"
This in conjunction with the Full-wave rectifier and capacitor would give you a very stable, near-pure 12V DC supply.
mfnNKmSeAdLjpxyhmKSVb6A.jpg



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