Anyone do a homemade oil tank delete?

RobertTrivanovic

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• Dec 15, 2015

• #1

Wondering how companies are doing oil tank deletes on turbo sleds? Is it simply a hose run into the turbo instead of the motor and then just routed back down to the motor after? Or is there more to it? Because $200 usd is a little steep IMO from Silber for what it sounds like it is

 

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hankohlson

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HOOD RIVER OR

• Dec 16, 2015

• #2

Here a link to the instructions from Silber listed on their web site.

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0775/7767/files/Polaris_Turbil_Injectionpdf.pdf?17101007159369661539

You will also need oil lines and the fittings for the turbo. You can only do this with the ball bearing turbo. The factory oiling system will not support a journal bearing turbo.

 

Last edited: Dec 16, 2015

Boston Racing

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• Dec 16, 2015

• #3

Just so everybody knows it is not a simple line to a 90 fitting. If you do that your going to have problems.

 

roughrider99

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• Dec 20, 2015

• #4

so is the oil dead heading into the turbo then pushing past the seals?

 

Boston Racing

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• Dec 20, 2015

• #5

roughrider99 said:

so is the oil dead heading into the turbo then pushing past the seals?

Click to expand...

Yes

 

roughrider99

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• Dec 20, 2015

• #6

thanks for clearing that up, so essentially this is the worst thing you could do for a turbo sled and is purely a cost saving measure for time consuming oil tank fabrication. intercoolers coated with oil rendering them inefficient and oil cavities on the turbos filled up with all ball bearing turbos need is a couple drops of oil. and that full cavity will possibly effect spooling since there is a positive oil pressure in the cavity

 

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ez-ryder

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• Dec 21, 2015

• #7

I don't disagree with everything you said.
but garrett actually recommends 20 psi on a ball bearing turbo.

 

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kgra

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• Dec 23, 2015

• #8

There is so little oil flow. You could run the sled with line off for a minute and it might flow a 1/2". you actually cant see it move at an idle. Only when revved up. So shouldnt hurt the turbo. And silber has no intercooler. So its just a little lube for the reeds.

 

Last edited: Dec 23, 2015

J

John 970

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• Jan 14, 2016

• #9

Wouldn't pushing oil past the seals be hard on the seals.
I don't know, but something doesn't seem right with that idea.
I have noticed that many of the manufactures are going with a oil tank delete kit, but I wonder how it would affect the life of the turbo.
Mine delete kit seems to be leaving an oil mess where ever I park it now.

 

Boston Racing

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• Jan 14, 2016

• #10

There are more than 400 kits out there just from Silber and when you add BD to the mix Im sure the number is much larger whose sleds don't act as was described to you. We didn't do it to cut cost....We did it because it simplifies installation, works better and we no longer worry about electrical system problems and oil pump failures.

 

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Esh

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• Jan 14, 2016

• #11

The seal is much like a piston ring; it is metal with an end gap. It wont be harmed by oil pushing through it.

My delete was leaving a greasy mess everywhere but I figured out the problem...If I rolled the sled and didnt completely clean the intakes of snow, it would cause a vacuum and draw the oil out of the center section through the gap. When the throttle closed, all this oil in the compressor and charge tube would get blown out the BOV as a mist and condense on the airbox underside, ultimately leaking on everything.

If your intakes get clogged or the foam is still in the factory intakes it will make a mess. No problems for me if it's cleared and I also added an slp intake for some more surface area.

 

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John 970

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• Jan 14, 2016

• #12

Thank you to Esh and Boston Racing for explaining it to us.
I didn't know how it works. I like to idea of getting rid of the weight and losing one more electrical component to go wrong. It seems simple in idea and like the theory behind it and needed some clarification as to how it works.
Thanks again.