Introduction - New To me M7

drummerdave · Mar 19, 2015

Hey Everybody.
Just picked up my first sled ever. Always lived in the south and would come north and ride with my Brother in law during the winters. I just moved up here so I had to pick one up for myself:

2005 M7 153. Has some mods - MBRP can, bar risers, new 2.6" PC track, Fox floats in front, fox shock in back, Wrap, and some other stuff I dont recall. Im a complete sled noob. Been wrenching on cars and cycles for the past 20 years, but know nothing about 2-smokes. Guess I'll be learning.
But the previous owner was a very particular type who knew his stuff, so Im pretty confident it's in good shape.

I've got a couple mods I'd like to do, particularly the HRP Bracket, and 2 wheel kit. It doesnt look like anybody makes the bracket anymore, so if you have one sitting around you want to sell, let me know. Also would like to add a gauge relocater and figure out a way to put a goggle holder above the "chimney", in case you've seen that done.

Sorry for any noob questions I might ask. I'll make sure I search first.

If anybody knows where I can download a manual, let me know. I got nothing with it and need to do some reading on how to maintain this beast.

ultrasks700 · Mar 19, 2015

Good looking sled! Should be a good backwoods starter machine!

-HPR brackets are hard to find, AMP makes ones still, another option is find a set of 2007 rails(they built the bracket higher) might end up being the same price.
-gauge lifter: I got one from Hubs performance they are real cheap and get the job done.
-I would suggest maybe trying to find a stock muffler, I will tell you right now my M7 ran like crap with a MBRP, to each his own.
-Go to Country cat.com I'm pretty sure you can get shop manuals right from their page. Maintaince isn't to hard on those sleds, ACT drive oil change, power valves, clutch cleaning, and a good greasing is about all there is...

ultrasks700 · Mar 19, 2015

http://countrycat.com/ccstore/index.php/kbase/2005_Snowmobile_Service_Manual_2-Stroke_Models.html

kiliki · Mar 19, 2015

If the motor is all stock run 87 Oct fuel!!!

ultrasks700 · Mar 19, 2015

http://www.aftermarketproducts.com/catalog.php?mach_type=S

boondocker97 · Mar 19, 2015

There are some of the Holz suspension brackets that pass through the suspension swap meet once in a while on the site here. Usually about $40 used from what I've seen. Arctic Cat made a goggle bag for the M-series that goes under the hood above the pipe and below the gauge. It works pretty well if you can find one in stock. I think they finally discontinued them for 2016. Take the diamond drive apart and inspect the gears and bearings. Look for a crack behind the motor plate while you are at it. Check out the secondary clutch for worn rollers and the main large bushing. Other than that, put gas and oil in it and ride it!

drummerdave · Mar 19, 2015

ultrasks700 said:
Good looking sled! Should be a good backwoods starter machine!

-HPR brackets are hard to find, AMP makes ones still, another option is find a set of 2007 rails(they built the bracket higher) might end up being the same price.
-gauge lifter: I got one from Hubs performance they are real cheap and get the job done.
-I would suggest maybe trying to find a stock muffler, I will tell you right now my M7 ran like crap with a MBRP, to each his own.
-Go to Country cat.com I'm pretty sure you can get shop manuals right from their page. Maintaince isn't to hard on those sleds, ACT drive oil change, power valves, clutch cleaning, and a good greasing is about all there is...

The PO knew his stuff. He's got this thing dialed in... or at least, from the little bit of riding it we did it seems to be. Clutch dialed in just perfect. Instant power. Runs great. So I plan to leave it alone.
Clutch stuff is new I believe. A buddy who's been riding forever [rides a '13 M8 now] looked everything over before I bought it, and test rode it. He was impressed.
I'll look for the relo bracket from Hubs. Thx for the tip.

drummerdave · Mar 19, 2015

Oh, and I've also got to do something about those running boards.
Guess it's time to find a big 'ol drill bit.

ultrasks700 · Mar 20, 2015

drummerdave said:
Oh, and I've also got to do something about those running boards.
Guess it's time to find a big 'ol drill bit.

Yes those stock running boards are garbage. There's several companies that make inserts if you don't mind spending 150$. But drill bits are cheap too...

drummerdave · Mar 20, 2015

ultrasks700 said:
Yes those stock running boards are garbage. There's several companies that make inserts if you don't mind spending 150$. But drill bits are cheap too...

My understanding is owning a sled is expensive enough as it is.. .
And Im . . . cheap.
So, I'll try the free mod first, and if that isnt good enough I'll look into aftermarket options.

diggerdown · Mar 20, 2015

A insert for the boards will work much better than putting holes in it. The holes take away the little traction there was and the snow still builds up about as bad as before. You can try the holes but I doubt you will see any improvements and don't be too cheap, use a hole saw not a drill bit. Nice sled.

sledtahoe · Mar 25, 2015

west is best

Unless your riden out west, put gas and oil in it and ride like you stloe it. Oh ya save the money for beer!

AZ800 · Mar 26, 2015

Congrats on the sled! Even with the plaid wrap... Lol. The M7 is a real workhorse of a sled. I've got one with about 3k miles now, never been opened up, diamond drive is still good, wouldn't hesitate to ride it into the backcountry by myself tomorrow. Been super reliable. And it towed a Sno Coach hauling the kids at high alt in powder for the first 2k.
Couple other useful mods.
Find a 2010-11 seat. Waaaay better unless you never sit down.
Reinforce the running boards. Bent them the first couple times my wife let me ride her sled. I built some brackets but may as well find some inserts that clear snow and make it stronger.
Ditch the Sno flap if you're riding in the deep. It won't overheat and easier to grab onto the back bumper to unstuck.
Bumpers look cheesy on M sleds but are about the strongest of any sled I've owned and I beat the tar out of my M1000 bumpers, towed sleds out with both M's. They are tough to break.
Get some pre filters to stick on the front corner hood vents. Keeps snow from packing in there and breaking the hood when you try to open it.
Look at a better track if you're in the powder. Prolly folded over and clapped out.
Watch for a small coolant leak right at the front of the tunnel. Probably the hardest $2 repair I've ever had to do. But you won't see it losing coolant unless it's parked somewhere long enough to mark it territory.
Keep fresh oil in the diamond drive. Every few hundred mi in the pow or 500 mi on trails.
Again nice sled. Have fun!

drummerdave · Mar 26, 2015

AZ800 said:
Congrats on the sled! Even with the plaid wrap... Lol. The M7 is a real workhorse of a sled. I've got one with about 3k miles now, never been opened up, diamond drive is still good, wouldn't hesitate to ride it into the backcountry by myself tomorrow. Been super reliable. And it towed a Sno Coach hauling the kids at high alt in powder for the first 2k.
Couple other useful mods.
Find a 2010-11 seat. Waaaay better unless you never sit down.
Reinforce the running boards. Bent them the first couple times my wife let me ride her sled. I built some brackets but may as well find some inserts that clear snow and make it stronger.
Ditch the Sno flap if you're riding in the deep. It won't overheat and easier to grab onto the back bumper to unstuck.
Bumpers look cheesy on M sleds but are about the strongest of any sled I've owned and I beat the tar out of my M1000 bumpers, towed sleds out with both M's. They are tough to break.
Get some pre filters to stick on the front corner hood vents. Keeps snow from packing in there and breaking the hood when you try to open it.
Look at a better track if you're in the powder. Prolly folded over and clapped out.
Watch for a small coolant leak right at the front of the tunnel. Probably the hardest $2 repair I've ever had to do. But you won't see it losing coolant unless it's parked somewhere long enough to mark it territory.
Keep fresh oil in the diamond drive. Every few hundred mi in the pow or 500 mi on trails.
Again nice sled. Have fun!

Thanks for the tips AZ
What do you mean about the track? It's brand new, and form what I hear, one of the best available.

CO Powder · Mar 26, 2015

Drill the boards... this is how I did mine with a drill an hole saw. This is MUCH, MUCH better than stock if not as good as full on boards. Didn't compromise the strength one bit, I am 225 nekkid and had to keep up with the 800s. GREAT sled, we just sold the 3 '05s from the fleet, at the beginning of this season. They had been in the family since new.

Get the seat too. Huge, dry storage, much more comfortable, probably under $200 on the swapmeet and well worth it.

Enjoy

sprockethead · Mar 26, 2015

Relocation Bracket

www.mountainvalleymachine.com/front-arm-relocation/

drummerdave · Feb 15, 2016

Well, a few updates here . . . figured this thread is as good a place as any.

Shredded the belt on my last ride.
As we looked at it, we realized it was flipped and being run inside out. Dont know what's up with that.

Put on the new spare OEM 036 belt that came with the sled and it was extremely tight (squealing/turning even with no throttle).
After looking at the part numbers on my outer sheave, it looks like I've got a 10.4" secondary. So Im ordering a couple 046 belts. And it has an aftermarket adjuster that I still need to figure out how to adjust.

Not only that, but I now have the infamous M7 coolant leak. It appears to be the front tunnel leak. It's leaking bad enough to empty my coolant bottle in a couple hours now.

I bought a set of torque arm relo brackets for it, so I guess it's a good time to pull the track get those installed.

Turns out my grip/thumb heaters dont work either. So I get to track down that issue too.

On another note, Im finally learning how to ride this beast. I went from a complete lack of any idea what im doing, and having nearly zero control to being somewhat competent in 3 rides, although I still get in plenty of situations that I get stuck or run into things cause I dont have the finesse that comes from experience. Mostly I can make big changes (hard turns and really yanking the thing over, but have a lot more difficulty with fine control - things like slightly adjusting my line. Still, Im making huge strides with every ride, and that makes me happy.

boondocker97 · Feb 15, 2016

Sorry to hear about your coolant leak. You'll have to pull the gas tank off to get the rivets drilled out of the plates that cover that hose connection up front. I'm going to have to do it one day, but my sled barely has a drip up there so it's going to stay as-is until it gets worse.

Good to hear that you're getting your sled figured out though!

drummerdave · Feb 15, 2016

boondocker97 said:
Sorry to hear about your coolant leak. You'll have to pull the gas tank off to get the rivets drilled out of the plates that cover that hose connection up front. I'm going to have to do it one day, but my sled barely has a drip up there so it's going to stay as-is until it gets worse.

Good to hear that you're getting your sled figured out though!

Do you know of any writeups on how to do this?
I've been reading and some guys say they can do it by pulling the seat and tank. Other guys say they pull the skid, track and DD.
I've never done any of it, so a writeup would be invaluable.

CATSLEDMAN1 · Feb 15, 2016

m7

Lots of good m7 must do on here.

1. the relocation bracket is critical as is running a loose track as the cat skid has very poor track tension characteristics even with the brackets but they are way better.

2. make sure you have the later cat orange secondary spring, then adjust the white nut tension so its 10mm from face of nut to face of cap. Then ride and adjust, more tension less upshift more backshift, less tension lazy slow upshift ( can be great for trailriding ).

3. If you ride deep snow or in the west, gear that thing down and pickup top end. Took cat about 6 years to figure that out, Back in 05 and 06 CAT tuners had bought out the years supply of lower gearing by Nov. Other wise stock gearing always a lazy sled. Gearing on these will trump pipes,big bores, clutch kits, boonie boxes, lots of little nagging tuning issues will disappear when you modernize this sled with correct gear ratio.

4. Keep those clutch's pristine clean, and if the primary rattles a little, start shopping for a newer cat primary. Stock helix all you need to win drag races or top end if you have good clutch adjustments. I put this secondary setup on all M sleds until cat ditched the DD drive.
All the high $$ secondary clutch kits have been bad attempts to overcome the M tall gearing and lack of understanding of function and adjustment on your stock secondary. Just make sure you ditch the stock secondary spring and go to cat orange or aftermarket same spring tension.

5. if you fix the boards and they need it, go with new pipe type. back in the day we installed lots of the pressed and cut boards, they all fatigue out, just welded up two yesterday for customers on older m8s with cracks on each not so grippy cross cleats.

6. upside is no one is really making a better sled, different with other problems. Good maintanance and tuning is better than new out of the box.

Introduction - New To me M7

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Similar threads