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the brown truck showed up today

S

sledbilly

Member
Apr 9, 2007
155
9
18
some assembly questions on xf 700 BB 800 kit

appreciate the help

should the piston pin circlip opening face up or down?
assemble with the apv oil?
antiseize on the cylinder and head bolts?
torque #'s for cylinder, head, exhaust?
any particular tightening pattern or just vary diagonally?
i was just going to clean all the parts with brak clean

i've read to lightly grease the o rings and/or stick in the fridge for awhile before installing.

there seems to be two schools of thought on piston/cylinder assembly. one is to install the piston on the rod then the cylinder and the other is to install piston into cylinder and then install onto rod. any input or tricks on easiest way to do this? i may have some help from someone with zero mech skills (my wife) so just looking for best way to do this.

on disassembly there was not any kind of gasket sealer on the cylinder gasket so i'm assuming that's not needed.

the torque and tightening specs i could probably get from the local dealer but they're kinda a pia to deal with.

i've noticed on the forums that there are quite a few pinned posts on clutch removal, DD oil change, track change, etc. but nothing on disassembly/assembly. might be helpful to have something like that.

thanx in advance.
 
M

mtn_extreme

Well-known member
Nov 11, 2002
1,692
88
48
Nampa, Idaho
circlip opening should line up with the notch in the piston so when you have to take it out, you can get to the end of it.
assemble with good old non apv oil as well as for the first tank (my opinion, they will vary)
no anti-seize
torque (these are for my m-sled, should be the same) cylinders 40/50, head 22/25-diagonal.
Break cleaner is good, I put mine in the dishwasher (but I'm not married)
Light grease on the o-rings and have them colder.

Make sure you have the piston rings in the right way, there is an up and down. They should fit loose.

If you are doing it in the sled you will have to install the piston first and then slide the cylinder on. That is the easiest way anyway. Your rings can be compressed to the stops by hand and the cylinder goes right on.

Replace your base (cylinder) gasket every time you take the cylinders off. Put a new one on but spray it a couple times completely with coppercoat first.

Hope this helps,

MX
 
Last edited:
M
Nov 26, 2007
2,022
438
83
billings, MT
circlip opening should line up with the notch in the piston so when you have to take it out, you can get to the end of it.
assemble with good old non apv oil as well as for the first tank (my opinion, they will vary)
no anti-seize
torque (these are for my m-sled, should be the same) cylinders 40/50, head 22/25-diagonal.
Break cleaner is good, I put mine in the dishwasher (but I'm not married)
Light grease on the o-rings and have them colder.

PHP:
Make sure you have the piston rings in the right way, there is an up and down. They should fit loose.
If you are doing it in the sled you will have to install the piston first and then slide the cylinder on. That is the easiest way anyway. Your rings can be compressed to the stops by hand and the cylinder goes right on.

Replace your base (cylinder) gasket every time you take the cylinders off. Put a new one on but spray it a couple times completely with coppercoat first.

Hope this helps,

MX

now that sounds familiar for some reason.
 
P
Jan 15, 2005
690
29
28
ND
You should use non synthetic oil for assembly and for your first tank or so. If you got the pistons and rings in a kit they may have been gapped already, but you have to double check that for sure. Also, if you are having trouble getting the pistons into the cylinders because of the rings (you will have to connect the pistons to the rods first and then slide the cylinders on) DO NOT use a screwdriver to compress the rings that last little bit. I made that mistake many years ago. Find something plastic to squish the rings that last little bit. You don't want to start out with a big gouge in your rings.

I second the coppercoat for the base gasket.

PM with any other questions. I'm not a pro, but have rebuilt many 2 strokes over the years and I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night. :)
 
S

sledbilly

Member
Apr 9, 2007
155
9
18
circlip opening should line up with the notch in the piston so when you have to take it out, you can get to the end of it.
assemble with good old non apv oil as well as for the first tank (my opinion, they will vary)
no anti-seize
torque (these are for my m-sled, should be the same) cylinders 40/50, head 22/25-diagonal.
Break cleaner is good, I put mine in the dishwasher (but I'm not married)
Light grease on the o-rings and have them colder.

Make sure you have the piston rings in the right way, there is an up and down. They should fit loose.

If you are doing it in the sled you will have to install the piston first and then slide the cylinder on. That is the easiest way anyway. Your rings can be compressed to the stops by hand and the cylinder goes right on.

Replace your base (cylinder) gasket every time you take the cylinders off. Put a new one on but spray it a couple times completely with coppercoat first.

Hope this helps,

MX

thanx for response. not sure what you mean by the circlips being in line with the notch on the piston. do you mean the cutout notch on the piston pin opening where circlip installs? looks like the same cutout would allow you to turn the circlips with needle nose pliers to get the gap in the circlip oriented the way you wanted. The new pistons are oem 800's.

what do you mean by non apv oil? years ago used to use (on four cycle rebuilds) stp oil treatment cause it's sticky. been many years though and don't know if they even make that stuff anymore.
 

Mntryder

Active member
Premium Member
Dec 26, 2002
236
38
28
Western Colorado
Your circlips should face either up or down, just not to the sides. I put mine in with the open end down.

Put one clip in the piston while it is off of the rod. Much easier to do this on your bench and see that it is seated well. Put the piston on the rod, slide the pin in and install the other clip.

With you sqeezing the rings and your wife helping lower the cylinders on, you shouldn't have any problems.

Non synthetic oil helps the rings seat quicker.
 
M

mtn_extreme

Well-known member
Nov 11, 2002
1,692
88
48
Nampa, Idaho
" do you mean the cutout notch on the piston pin opening where circlip installs?"

Yes, I set my opening so the top edge of the clip opening is lined up with the bottom edge of that piston cutout. Works for me, haven't lost one yet.
 
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