Just replaced the resister with a sensor

Mike from langley · Apr 13, 2014

End of last season my sensor went. Put in the resister, code went away and sled ran. It just hasn't worked the way it used to. I've had some clutch issues, worked everything out. Sled is a piped m1000 so has good power anyway, my EGTs on top have been low and I've been reluctant to cut fuel because it ran spot on last year. Put in the GM sensor, boom back to super rocket. hahaha Sensor is WAY better than resister.

av8er · Apr 13, 2014

GM sensor is like only $25

No reason not to replace once it goes

Mike from langley · Apr 14, 2014

$88 here in Canada from the dealer.

av8er · Apr 14, 2014

buy them on EBAY

$25

Mike from langley · Apr 14, 2014

That could work.

Hardass · Apr 15, 2014

I heard the sensor is worth 20 HP over the resister

Mike from langley · Apr 15, 2014

The difference is huge.

backcountryislife · Apr 15, 2014

Hardass said:
I heard the sensor is worth 20 HP over the resister

If you look at the table for the sensor, it would depend on what resistor you choose. If you choose the resistor that matches 300 degrees, it won't run the same at 400...

If you've got the resistor for the appropriate operating temp, there should be no change.. AT WFO... but you'll never have the proper setup for every temp range.

clutch · Apr 15, 2014

After replacing several sensors in way too short of a time span, I have gone back to the resistor. Choose the right one for a pipe that is up too full temp, and the difference is barely noticeable. If you could buy the cheap sensor with the right plug, it would be worth it. I looked into changing the connector on the sled end to match the GM sensor, but GM wants a fortune for the pigtail, and I decided it wasn't worth it, after splicing several times you run out of wire and have more places too fail.
:face-icon-small-fro

fullshift · Apr 15, 2014

I run a 1000 with SLP exhaust and stock temp sensor with a power commander 5. I was thinking of removing egt sensor and putting in a 470 resistor. Then running PC auto tune with O2 sensor. I was hoping tuning the sled this way is the way to go. Or should I just weld another bung in pipe and run both sensors?

Mike from langley · Apr 15, 2014

I was running the 470 ohm, if you look on the scale for the sensor that equates to about 650 degrees. I like my egts to hit 1150ish but that's only 4 inches from the cylinder. The sensor is farther out but I think it still needed higher temps. It runs stronger everywhere except in the high mid range where it worked good. These things run so strong that unless you've got egts you think its pulling well.

Thunder101 · Apr 15, 2014

According to Dyno tech Jim the centre section of the pipe likes 1000/1050 *f to make peek power and he unplugs it on the dyno and the ecu defaults to what ever resistance makes max peek power,but the sensor also will retard timing to heat a cool pipe to increase throttle response /power. I don't think you want o remove it as it improves drivability as I understand it any ways.
BTW one of the GM sensors has the same plug as the Cat.

clutch · Apr 16, 2014

which gm sensor has the same plug. I would be very interested.

lbj · Apr 21, 2014

gm sensor plug matches up with 2011 m8.

clutch · Apr 22, 2014

Oh, I see the fish shows 2011 and up use a different sensor that uses the same plug. 2010 and older don't match. :face-icon-small-fro

Thunder101 · Apr 22, 2014

I dont know what the fish says but I put a 11 sensor in a 09 .

av8er · Apr 22, 2014

yeah

Thunder101 said:
I dont know what the fish says but I put a 11 sensor in a 09 .

but was it an exact fit, plug and pay, or did you have to splice it together.

Thunder101 · Apr 22, 2014

Same plug . plug and play

Inthe8s · Apr 28, 2014

Sensor

Whats the part # for the plug and play GM sensor ??

213-4759 is the cut and splice GM sensor ( AC Delco )

Inthe8s · May 10, 2014

????

??????????????? anyone ?????????????????????

Just replaced the resister with a sensor

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