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2012 Silber Billet TB boot won't fit.....

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CDK

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Sep 5, 2011
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I'm trying to install the billet throttle body boot with secondary injectors from a 2012 kit onto my 2012 SBA. I cannot get the boot to fit, because the secondary injector plugs are hitting the front cooler. Anyone else have this problem on a sled with a front cooler?

I might be able to force it to fit, but I feel like it will snap off the injectors if I try that hard.

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purepolaris600

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Aug 21, 2009
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Elkader iowa
ya I have the 12 kit will the billet throttle body boot on a pro rmk and it has no front cooler and it is tight have about a quarter inch before it hits tunnel, I don't really think with that design it is not ment for a sled with front cooler, I think your best option would be to upgrade to the bullydog and just replace your stock fuel injectors.
 
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CDK

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Craaaaap, not what I wanted to hear. Might have to get crafty and make it fit somehow.
 
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CDK

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If I were you , I would just get the Bully Dog upgrade for fitment and runability.

Nah, running a Vipec already. I got the 2012 kit for almost nothing, so I was just trying to make some parts works. I can actually just unplug the secondaries and throw a bigger set of primaries in, but I wanted to stick with 4 injectors for smoother tuning.
 

diamonddave

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What you could do would be to go with the 2013 fueling design/silicon boot update kit where you run the stock rubber intake boot and comes with the billet piece that houses the injectors that attaches to the rear of the throttle bodies. This would also get you the silicon intake to the turbo and silicon intake to the stock plenum. Much better than the '12 kit IMO.

Or...not sure if it's possible...remove the front cooler.
 

diamonddave

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On 2nd thought....What happens if you flip the billet intake piece upside down? If I remember right, the secondary injectors on the '12 kits faced up.
 
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CDK

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I like the idea of the 13 update, might have to go that route. Can't flip the billet boot unfortunately, it will point the throttle bodies down too much.
 

Kenny B

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Ok so, I have a 2012 assault, the silber boot and a silber airbox. First off, you can get the the billet boot to fit, I didn't remove the front cooler, I actually just marked the cooler where the injectors and plugs are fooling, removed the motor and used a hammer and "gently" massaged the cooler untill It cleared the cooler, I won't lie, it took a while and patient, also, find something to take up the space between the cooler and the track/driveshaft. I also used a rubber tape to wrap the injector plugs if it rubbed, I ahve a FTX 6 mount motor plate. You may want to give yourslf as much room as possible, but it will be tight. You'll need to basically have to flatten the core in the two locations, Water will still flow through it, if you actually run the numbers it is really about 8% of the total cooler area in the sled. Just make sure you support the backside so you don't warp the core, take your time. Keep a watchful eye on the centre support in the core extrusion, this is the mostly place it will crack, and you'll need to get pretty close to it. Alluminium is really malleable, so it'll physically do it. If you don't feel comfortable with it. I did notice that the vary tips of the injectors rubbed last year, not alot, but alittle. I guess I'll need to hit it again before this year starts. Or buy 1000cc injectors and put plugs in the secondary injector holes....

 
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CDK

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Sep 5, 2011
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You're a braver man than me! Nice work though. I think I'm going to play it safe and go with the silicone '13 setup, I really want to keep the secondaries. Corey at Next Level has been awesome to deal with, major props.
 

Kenny B

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Well... I could have welded the core if I cracked it.... I have a tig 12 feet from the sled.... So for me it didn't matter. I only knocked it in about a 1/4", maybe 3/8". hard to tell. But it wasn't to bad. I was told by vipec to keep the secondary's and it was really a waste of money to go with 1000cc Injectors. The big thing for me was durability, The rubber boots are a failure point, I wanted them gone. I'll take some picks of what I had to do to make them fit when I get in from the rig as my motor is out and at Indy Dans
 
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Boyko

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Nov 27, 2007
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On a couples sleds I did we machined the throttle body mount so the injectors could be clocked inward.

Also put a blob of silicon on the injector plugs just incase it does make contact.

Of course you have to have extra motor bracing and keep a eye on your motor mounts
 
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CDK

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Sep 5, 2011
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On a couples sleds I did we machined the throttle body mount so the injectors could be clocked inward.

Also put a blob of silicon on the injector plugs just incase it does make contact.

Of course you have to have extra motor bracing and keep a eye on your motor mounts

Did you machine the fuel rail as well? I don't have the mount in front of me to reference, but I'm curious if you got the injectors to clock 90 degrees?
 

LoudHandle

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CDK if you decide to go the non-cooler close off. I have one I can spare, in my parts collection. I may even entertain a straight swap if you decide that is best. FWIW

Depending on how complete your sled is at the moment, you should be able to remove the appropriate fastners appy some heat, where you need to break the glue bond, and sneak the cooler out and sneak the new non-cooler close off back in without a complete disassembly. Wedge it in the appropriate spots and re-appy the adheasive, and torque everything back up.

I'm strongly considering building my own front closeoff cooler as well as an under tank double pass cooler out of a 6000 series structural aluminum alloy extrusion, to get the water weight closer to the COG of the sled and eliminate the stock weak / non-structural 5000 series aluminum coolers sticking out the back and attracting / making wet heavy snow / ice. While the "T" slots are convienent, IMO they are not worth the weight penalty being a non-structural alloy. Had they extruded them out of 6061-T6, I'd stay with the stock design, or at least leave the top Half of the extrustion from the seat back for the utility. As it is they are going, bye bye. FWIW
 
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CDK

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Sep 5, 2011
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CDK if you decide to go the non-cooler close off. I have one I can spare, in my parts collection. FWIW

Depending on how complete your sled is at the moment, you should be able to remove the appropriate fastners appy some heat, where you need to break the glue bond, and sneak the cooler out and sneak the new non-cooler close off back in without a complete disassembly. Wedge it in the appropriate spots and re-appy the adheasive, and torque everything back up.

Appreciate it LH, but I need all the cooling I can get. Lots of low snow prairie riding with this beast. Thanks for the offer though!
 
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Boyko

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Did you machine the fuel rail as well? I don't have the mount in front of me to reference, but I'm curious if you got the injectors to clock 90 degrees?

It might have been the fuel rails, what ever needed clearance.

maybe moved them 20 degree. it was still tight
 
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