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2005 M7....What Preventative Maintenance?

G
Nov 6, 2016
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So I ended up with a M1000 this past week for a song and traded it the next day for an all stock 2005 M7 153" with 1398 miles on it. Its a super clean little sled and gona let my wife run it. What all should I check on it and what should be changed? Im thinking I wana do the elec reverse. She has never even set on a snowmobile so want to make it user friendly and be VERY RELIABLE. TIA.
 
K
Nov 21, 2016
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Cody, WY
I have an 05 M7 myself with a 162 track I just purchased with less than 600 or so miles. From my research I have done is change the Diamond Drive fluid, they say you want to keep up on that. Also check the primary clutch rollers and make sure they don't have any flat spots on them along with a good visual inspection of the clutch. My track was changed out with a different one as they said the attack track was not very good, ( I can't comment for sure as I have no experience with that) other than that I would say take it for test ride when you can and see how it handles. I know the 700 motor was pretty good. :)
 
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D
Mar 19, 2015
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U.P. of MI
Grease all the suspension points. Check the idle wheels for play in the bearings. Check/replace the plugs if needed (or just to be safe). Check the coolant and maybe replace that - it is a 11ish year old sled with low miles. It could be the original coolant.
Speaking of, it might be a good time to flush the braking system too with some new fluid.
Check for leaks - The M7 is notorious for coolant leaks at the front of the tunnel (stock clamp tends to break and you get a day ruining coolant leak).
Sometimes the Y coolant line between the head and the injectors will rub on a bolt head and rub a hole in it.
Consider proactively replacing hoses, including fuel hoses.
 
A
Jun 23, 2004
1,954
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Black Diamond, WA
Had the front tunnel hose coolant leak. Was just a drip. Ran like that for a while. Was a biatch to fix.
Coolant bottle tends to warp on top and pop the cap loose. Check that for sure. Warped 2 of them even with the Heat guard. You can bend the tabs on the coolant cap to keep it on.
Front skid arm relocation bracket is needed for much better suspension.
Clutching sucks from factory. Get a clutch kit from someone who knows them. Racinstation supplied a great kit for mine.
Check power valve cable length. 45mm or whatever it is. I forget. Clean power valves.
2010-2011 seat is worth the $250.
Still run the M7 every year. Aside from that coolant hose in the tunnel the rest has been pretty easy and reliable.
My wife pulled a Sno coach for like 1500-2000 mi with it too.
 
G

geo

Well-known member
Dec 1, 2007
2,170
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Kamloops B.C.
To add some other stuff.

Seal the intake (remove airbox, make a foam rubber donut to fit between box and throttle bodies and reinstall airbox). Helps to seal the top intakes if you ride chest deep too.
Check your ski rubbers. Fix (weld) where they sit in the spindle too if needed.
Fix the snow flap (replace with something else) if it is still there.
While doing the DD oil check the helix bolts on the secondary. If you still have just 6, IMO it is worth replacing them and loctite (some were not "loctited" from the factory the first year). Change to orange spring while there too and add enough weight to keep it about 7500. Good idea to add a fill hole (casting boss is there) to the DD cover So you don't have to roll the sled for future oil changes. And,,, make sure the speedo wiring is routed and secured properly (if you care about the speedo) while in the area too.
Check the ground bolt (brake side, behind motor, brown wires). They tended to come loose.
Check the brake tail light wiring for a common short you can find with google.
If the sled was trail ridden mostly, the DD brake gets real hot and a fluid change would help alot. Also aggressive riding saw some failures in the front steering shaft (not often in the mountains). Cat had a safety recall and fix that still should be free if it is not done on yours.
Find the vent for the altitude sensor (comes out from the computor, small clear tube) and make sure it is routed and secured somewhere under the y pipe area. Make sure the ethanol plug (same area) is plugged together (they're plenty rich already).
There's a couple of nuts you can snug up (above the pipe) if the handlebars feel a little sloppy.
Look for grease nipples and spritz your thumb lever pivot-TORS area with a bit of silicon spray once in a while.
 
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S
Feb 21, 2009
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diamond drive fluid

the only thing I would do is change dd fluid which is not a must, but good to do, look over like others have said but with the low miles run it, i have one that just turned 10k.. !
 
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