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Questions on 2007 m8

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TRUEBLUEMAX

Well-known member
Aug 4, 2010
751
280
63
Hooper, Utah
I bought an all stock 2007 m8 153 last year. Sled is in good condition and ran really good 3500ish miles on it. No issues there. Biggest issue I found was with the stock Challenger track. Track is completely done. I got a 2.6 Powerclaw to run on it so that should be handled. I bought an SLP full pipe kit for it also. Took a look at the cylinders and the pistons while I had the Y-pipe off. They look great. I pulled the cover off of the primary and the rollers spin but seem to be a little loose. The inner and outer bushings on the sheave and the outer cover have a fair amount of play in them also. Fluid was changed last year in the diamond drive and still looks good.

Questions

1. It has Cutler adjustable weights in it Yellow/white primary spring and orange secondary. My plan was to add a little weight to the primary and see how it does cause I was really happy with the way the clutching felt last year. Anybody see any issues with that?

2. Is it worth maintaining the primary clutch? It looks good but do these clutches have issues coming apart also. I just don't want to put well over $100 into a clutch that might be on it's last leg.

3. Any other items that should be inspected while I am tearing into this thing?
 

sledhead685

Well-known member
Premium Member
Jan 12, 2012
252
216
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Laramie
With the SLP kit you want to add/subtract clutch weight to get peak RPM of 8100, that's where peak power is with that pipe (stock is 7800 I believe). I have the same setup as you actually, 2.6 PC with SLP kit and cutler weights. I can't remember where my weights are at, but I probably ride at a different elevation as you anyway. As far as clutch wear, I was also in that situation last year. It was feeling a bit sloppy so I decided to get a new one (wasn't much more money that a rebuild). That really helped with RPM fade and shifting. I also went with a speedwerx 120/310 primary spring and a glide washer on each side, pretty happy with this setup. On the secondary I replaced spring and rollers. While I had the clutches off I replaced the motor mounts and that little snubber bumper between the motor and the diamond drive. Then put a lot of effort into aligning and cleaning the clutches, seems to have really paid off. Pulls a lot harder and longer now, and belt is holding up great. All cheap and easy stuff that really pays off.
 

CATSLEDMAN1

Well-known member
Premium Member
Nov 27, 2007
2,630
1,207
113
75
Missoula, Montana
got one

I still have an 07 m8 that sits un road for a couple of years , but when I rode it last year into my cabin I was kinda shocked at how snotty that motor and clutching is.

Mine has:

lower gearing, super critical for mtn riding and the bigger track
05 addjustable spring pressure helix with more spring pressure than what you can achieve stock with their spacers...stock orange cat spring and stock 36 helix.

mds weights with gold cat spring and about a 3400 rpm engagement

shim kit under cylinders

tons of chassis mods , but the lower gearing and dialed secondary spring pressure is the key to yanking the skis off the ground...........same as the 010-011 sleds that everybody raved about, same chit from cat just finally correct mtn riding gearing.
 
T

TRUEBLUEMAX

Well-known member
Aug 4, 2010
751
280
63
Hooper, Utah
With the SLP kit you want to add/subtract clutch weight to get peak RPM of 8100, that's where peak power is with that pipe (stock is 7800 I believe). I have the same setup as you actually, 2.6 PC with SLP kit and cutler weights. I can't remember where my weights are at, but I probably ride at a different elevation as you anyway. As far as clutch wear, I was also in that situation last year. It was feeling a bit sloppy so I decided to get a new one (wasn't much more money that a rebuild). That really helped with RPM fade and shifting. I also went with a speedwerx 120/310 primary spring and a glide washer on each side, pretty happy with this setup. On the secondary I replaced spring and rollers. While I had the clutches off I replaced the motor mounts and that little snubber bumper between the motor and the diamond drive. Then put a lot of effort into aligning and cleaning the clutches, seems to have really paid off. Pulls a lot harder and longer now, and belt is holding up great. All cheap and easy stuff that really pays off.

Thanks for the advice.

So what spring were you running in the secondary? I am planning on replacing the primary spring but the secondary spring and rollers were just replaced so I am thinking about getting a new primary spring and adding a little weight and seeing how she runs.

That is a good heads up on the motor mounts. Keeping everything straight and true is really important for the clutches to work properly.

I do ride at around 10k feet a lot so i get that your clutching might be different than mine.
 

sledhead685

Well-known member
Premium Member
Jan 12, 2012
252
216
43
Laramie
Thanks for the advice.



So what spring were you running in the secondary? I am planning on replacing the primary spring but the secondary spring and rollers were just replaced so I am thinking about getting a new primary spring and adding a little weight and seeing how she runs.



That is a good heads up on the motor mounts. Keeping everything straight and true is really important for the clutches to work properly.



I do ride at around 10k feet a lot so i get that your clutching might be different than mine.



I am running the stock cat spring in the secondary. I already had a new one so I went with that, thought about trying a speedwerx spring though. 10k feet is where I ride at too. I'll take a look later to see where I ended up with primary weights.


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sledhead685

Well-known member
Premium Member
Jan 12, 2012
252
216
43
Laramie
Looks like I ended up at 68.84 g, weighted in the heel. My diamond drive gearing is 57/63 too, if you are interested. If you are going to buy a new primary spring I definitely recommend the speedwerx H5 alloy springs.
 
T

TRUEBLUEMAX

Well-known member
Aug 4, 2010
751
280
63
Hooper, Utah
Thanks for checking on that weight for me. I do have the 57/63 gearing which for now I think I'll leave alone. It looks like that spring is fairly close to the speedwerx spring but probably a little lower engagement and more pressure compressed so probably a good idea with the extra power from the pipe.

Thanks again for the info and knowledge. Having bought my first two cats last year it's kind of a learning curve.


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sledhead685

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Premium Member
Jan 12, 2012
252
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Laramie
I made this plot back when I was deciding, it was easier for me to visualize the steepness of the different rates.

Clutch spring rates.jpg
 
T

TRUEBLUEMAX

Well-known member
Aug 4, 2010
751
280
63
Hooper, Utah
That's an awesome chart. I imagine that using the spacers in there most likely brings the starting rate up a little unless they figure that into the installed height of their spring.


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sledhead685

Well-known member
Premium Member
Jan 12, 2012
252
216
43
Laramie
Yes, it will bring the starting and finish rate up a tad. Or in scientific terms the intercept will go up a tad but the slope will remain the same. In this plot the x-axis is the compression distance of the spring itself (as opposed to distance moved by the clutch), so adding the washers will just move you higher up the line slightly for starting and finishing rates.
 
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