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Need a little Silber Help

AKFULLTHROTTLE

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You cant look at pro plugs like other sleds you have owned in the past... It does not take much of a wet plug on a pro to make her not run.. I would change the plugs out every time... I have went through many plugs since 2011 with the pros.. Even if I thought they were good , as soon as I switched them it would start. Not saying this is your issue but I would change them
 
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XP Summit

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Nov 26, 2007
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You cant look at pro plugs like other sleds you have owned in the past... It does not take much of a wet plug on a pro to make her not run.. I would change the plugs out every time... I have went through many plugs since 2011 with the pros.. Even if I thought they were good , as soon as I switched them it would start. Not saying this is your issue but I would change them

I will take your word on that, that's good to know. I did take the torch to them to clean up earlier. They cleaned up decent. Just trying to fix and play tonight before I make it to the store for new plugs in the AM. High AFR's and Blue on a 13 controller is what is throwing me then add an idle for only a few second's unplugged. And the thing with idle controller unplugged is it sounds clean and just fine at first, unlike bad plugs which take some love, then dies. Sled ran awesome 6 days ago in the garage.
 
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Spaarky

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Sorry for the most part, I am in the dinosaur age of carbs yet. Is it possible if the secondary injectors were dumping fuel, the motor is just too wet yet?

If they were open that's a fair amount of fuel.
 

AKFULLTHROTTLE

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Yes. .. The secondaries could be stuck open

torching them won't help. .. LOL... been there. ..
 
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XP Summit

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Unplugged the Throttle Body MAP Sensor. Ran it with the controller on and off same results as the video's above. Plugged in the Controller cycles the same, unplugged idles fine then dies. Plugged that sensor back in and unplugged the oem TMAP sensor on the silicon air box, same results. Looked at the throttle linkage and doesn't move the throttle arm down until the play is out of the pivot in the throttle, so there is no pre load at idle.

I did notice that if the dobeck controller is connected the amber check engine does not turn on. If I unplug the controller the amber light glows.

The only time the amber check engine light turned on with the controller connected was when I ran it with the oem TMAP sensor disconnected at the silicon air box.

I figured those where good variables to help diagnose stuff.
 

wellfed777

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YOU NEVER GO FULL RETARD ! i'm a guy playin a guy disguised as another guy (tropic thunder:face-icon-small-ton)
couldn't help myself

:focus: really good help AK and outlaw you guys rock
 

AKFULLTHROTTLE

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Have we done the new plugs yet???

Throw in some new plugs then she how she runs..

If no change move on to clamping the fuel line to the secondary injectors.
 

Gracefull

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Plug your silber box back in, disconnect the boost signal tube between the electronics box and the solenoid, start sled. If the BLUE light is on with the boost reference line disconnected, you have a BAD controller. the blue light should only come on when the electronics box sees boost.
I had a starting issue with my silber electronics a couple years ago. sounds like the same thing, sometimes it just would not start back up. i would have to hold FULL throttle and pull it a bunch of times it would finally start (just like a flooded old carb sled) then it would run fine again. it seemed pretty random.
I have since gone with a different brand of control box and my problem has gone away.
Have you tried starting the sled the way i have mentioned above, I believe the computer sees WOT (wide open throttle) and shuts the injectors off for starting.

Good luck, these kits are great.
 

AKFULLTHROTTLE

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Boost signal??? Solenoid??? This is a 13' Kit...

The control box reads boost from the TMap sensor in the throttle body.

The box should only allow the secondary injectors to spray once it reads boost.

One thing I may have missed is that I believe the OEM TMap sensor is also now plugged through the control box which could be why when disconnect the box it idles then dies. Would need to confirm but if this is the case maybe connecting the OEM Tmap back into the stock harness and disconnecting the box could isolate the issue.

Still need to put some new plugs in...
 
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XP Summit

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Plug your silber box back in, disconnect the boost signal tube between the electronics box and the solenoid, start sled. If the BLUE light is on with the boost reference line disconnected, you have a BAD controller. the blue light should only come on when the electronics box sees boost.
I had a starting issue with my silber electronics a couple years ago. sounds like the same thing, sometimes it just would not start back up. i would have to hold FULL throttle and pull it a bunch of times it would finally start (just like a flooded old carb sled) then it would run fine again. it seemed pretty random.
I have since gone with a different brand of control box and my problem has gone away.
Have you tried starting the sled the way i have mentioned above, I believe the computer sees WOT (wide open throttle) and shuts the injectors off for starting.

Good luck, these kits are great.

From what I remember the old kits had a tube coming off the back of the controller? The new controllers do not.
 
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ulost

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Feb 15, 2008
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So since my memory is the second shortest thing I have, when you have the old silber kits running at idle, which lights on the controller should be lit up?
 
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ulost

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well wth! Just got done setting mine up for 10,000ft. Now when I start it, I'm showing 3 ambers? Not enough seat time on this thing yet.
 

AKFULLTHROTTLE

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Thinking the OEM Tmap is plugged into the controller so that may have to go back to stock in order for it to run with out the controller.

Maybe clamping the fuel line is next with the controller and all connected.

Chasing a gremlin.....
 
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