Powervalve sploog- anyone route the hose outside?

voodoo · Jan 25, 2015

I know polaris used to route this hose to the outside, now it all dumps in the bottom. Thinking of drilling a hole in the cast aluminum to dump it out or add a longer hose and route it under the engine and out through the thin aluminum belly pan. Is everybody just putting up with all the black sploog all over inside?

Snowmow · Jan 25, 2015

Do a search in this forum.

SRXSRULE · Jan 25, 2015

Many people move them, just be advised that depending on the location and snow/weather conditions the hose can freeze over and the valves stop working. You will know it if this happens. Eric

jegster · Jan 26, 2015

I put a longer hose and routed it to exit near the bottom front bolts on the a-arms. Most of the sploog makes it to the garage floor. The hose sits high enough in the belly pan that I have not had an issue with it freezing.

SRXSRULE · Jan 26, 2015

jegster said:
I put a longer hose and routed it to exit near the bottom front bolts on the a-arms. Most of the sploog makes it to the garage floor. The hose sits high enough in the belly pan that I have not had an issue with it freezing.

Thats exactly where I "had" mine earlier this winter. I say "had" because it froze shut in that location. Eric

POLZIN · Jan 26, 2015

I used a longer hose routed just behind my exhaust and attached to a barbed fitting that I I drilled and threaded into the belly pan . No mess and I've never had it freeze up

hoov165x · Jan 26, 2015

SRXSRULE said:
Many people move them, just be advised that depending on the location and snow/weather conditions the hose can freeze over and the valves stop working. You will know it if this happens. Eric

I don't believe this is the case (valves stop working). I put an inline on/off valve on the outlet hose for some testing- to see if it makes a difference. It really didn't make a noticeable difference. There are several threads regarding blocking this off for different performance characteristics. See link below, or pasted text. There are more like this.

http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=177443

8) Plug the exhaust purge hoses coming off the exhaust valves, this makes it like the 2001-2004 set-ups and definitely improves acceleration by allowing the exhaust valves to open sooner. An added benefit is the hot exhaust that was "held back" in the engine is released sooner, thereby effectively reducing internal engine temps.

SRXSRULE · Jan 27, 2015

hoov165x said:
I don't believe this is the case (valves stop working). I put an inline on/off valve on the outlet hose for some testing- to see if it makes a difference. It really didn't make a noticeable difference. There are several threads regarding blocking this off for different performance characteristics. See link below, or pasted text. There are more like this.

http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=177443

8) Plug the exhaust purge hoses coming off the exhaust valves, this makes it like the 2001-2004 set-ups and definitely improves acceleration by allowing the exhaust valves to open sooner. An added benefit is the hot exhaust that was "held back" in the engine is released sooner, thereby effectively reducing internal engine temps.

All I can tell ya is that on a cold powder day where we had several creek crossings with the hose in that location I went from running perfect 82-8300 down to 7500 for about 3 hours. Stopped and pulled that hose out and stuffed it under the engine. 30 minutes later was back to 82-8300. Eric

gmustangt · Jan 27, 2015

Route it out the belly pan , just angle it with some zip ties through the gap there.
Don't put it to far down that the snow can effect it.

You get a little splooge on the a arm , which mostly gets washed off as you ride through snow

s1d3w1nd3r1480 · Jan 28, 2015

I just extended mine and ran it out through a small hole I drilled in the plastic in front of the exhaust hole just behind the metal deflector protecting the end of the can. Here it is protected from snow by the deflector and the exhaust keeps it warm enough to prevent any freezing up. Have had zero problems so far in 400 miles and any leakage that may occur is in the same place the can spits oil while idling when i was running my first tank of premix. After a couple tanks I can't find any evidence of oil from anything. i did have to clean up my belly pan a little after there first couple rides once the y pipe to pipe joint heat cycled and sealed up. Good to go now

BILTIT · Jan 28, 2015

I routed the stock hose out the PTO side top shock bolt hole grommet. It rests right against the rear of the shock. It does leave a little mess on the shock but most of it gets washed away. I have never had it freeze yet.

Teth-Air · Jan 28, 2015

Yes I have done it on the 4 last Pro's I have owned. Just take that rubber plug out from behind the top shock bolt. Now punch a hole in it with an old socket and a hammer. Pull the hose through it and replace the rubber plug. Now use a zip tie to hold the hose to the back side of the shock.

voodoo · Jan 28, 2015

s1d3w1nd3r1480 said:
I just extended mine and ran it out through a small hole I drilled in the plastic in front of the exhaust hole just behind the metal deflector protecting the end of the can. Here it is protected from snow by the deflector and the exhaust keeps it warm enough to prevent any freezing up. Have had zero problems so far in 400 miles and any leakage that may occur is in the same place the can spits oil while idling when i was running my first tank of premix. After a couple tanks I can't find any evidence of oil from anything. i did have to clean up my belly pan a little after there first couple rides once the y pipe to pipe joint heat cycled and sealed up. Good to go now

Thanks for all the help guys. I ended up doing this as I want to keep the cleanup to a minimum.

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Powervalve sploog- anyone route the hose outside?

voodoo

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Snowmow

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SRXSRULE

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jegster

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SRXSRULE

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POLZIN

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hoov165x

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SRXSRULE

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gmustangt

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s1d3w1nd3r1480

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BILTIT

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Teth-Air

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voodoo

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