KMod Setup Questions

ditch1000 · Feb 14, 2015

I have the Kmod conversion kit on my 2012 Pro 163" with the Raptor shock on the rear and stock shock on the front of the suspension. The suspension works well over all, but 1 problem I have is when I hit sharp bumps such as a creek crossing the suspension bottoms out hard. When I take jumps or ride pounded out trails it works great and soaks up the bumps.... I have the raptor shock set to 10" spring length with it set to 8 clicks. I have the sled running the X3 track and I weight 195 lbs without gear on.
Anyone have any recommendations for how to set the suspension to get rid of the bottom out on sharp bumps??

richracer1 · Feb 14, 2015

Best bet is to call Kevin and tell him your issues.

BILTIT · Feb 14, 2015

Is it bottoming or hitting the coupler block? What do you have the coupling block set at?

ditch1000 · Feb 14, 2015

BILTIT said:
Is it bottoming or hitting the coupler block? What do you have the coupling block set at?

The coupler is set on #2. It is definitely bottoming out; I tried tuning up a bunch of clicks on the raptor on my last ride, but did not seem to make much of a difference....

assault11 · Feb 14, 2015

I ran a Kmod for a year and that was the one problem I had. In my opinion the raptor shocks he sends with them are just valved way too soft. I'm running stock suspension and the skinz arc now and I love it.

ditch1000 · Feb 14, 2015

assault11 said:
I ran a Kmod for a year and that was the one problem I had. In my opinion the raptor shocks he sends with them are just valved way too soft. I'm running stock suspension and the skinz arc now and I love it.

That's what I'm thinking as well. If I have to get the shock re-valved, I'll wait til the summer. I adjusted the shock 6-8 clicks stiffer to try to get rid of the problem and seen little difference....

tdbaugha · Feb 14, 2015

Since its a coupling skid, a legit front shock will help with the bottoming.

But I have the same issue if I hit a hole hard enough. I found my sweet spot with the spring and clicker stiffer than the "base" settings.

ditch1000 · Feb 14, 2015

tdbaugha said:
Since its a coupling skid, a legit front shock will help with the bottoming.

But I have the same issue if I hit a hole hard enough. I found my sweet spot with the spring and clicker stiffer than the "base" settings.

I wonder if the Raptor up front would help with this problem......

sledhead9825 · Feb 14, 2015

The Kmod works fine on smaller whoops, but when you start to hammer them hard they don't work so well. The coupling block scissor design has its limitations. Sold my Kmod with Fox Zero Pros, bought a Racers Edge with Elkas.
The Racers Edge skid is so much better for big climbs and harder riding.

Norway · Feb 15, 2015

sledhead9825 said:
The Kmod works fine on smaller whoops, but when you start to hammer them hard they don't work so well. The coupling block scissor design has its limitations. Sold my Kmod with Fox Zero Pros, bought a Racers Edge with Elkas.
The Racers Edge skid is so much better for big climbs and harder riding.

How is the RE susp for trees/boondocking vs the newer skids?

assault11 · Feb 15, 2015

Norway said:
How is the RE susp for trees/boondocking vs the newer skids?

A coupled skid will never work as good for technical riding as an uncoupled. Coupled skid do not get up on the snow good at slow speeds and they make the sled feel a lot heavier. If you have a stock sled the best suspension you can have is stock skid with high end shocks. With a turbo stock skid and the skinz arc works very well. If you want to climb chutes I would do the racers edge. It is, IMO, the toughest skid out there

sledhead9825 · Feb 15, 2015

assault11 said:
A coupled skid will never work as good for technical riding as an uncoupled. Coupled skid do not get up on the snow good at slow speeds and they make the sled feel a lot heavier. If you have a stock sled the best suspension you can have is stock skid with high end shocks. With a turbo stock skid and the skinz arc works very well. If you want to climb chutes I would do the racers edge. It is, IMO, the toughest skid out there

I here what your saying. My RE skid, is in a Boost-it Pro with a 174x3 so getting on top of the snow at any speed is never a problem. In saying that my sled is definitely purpose built. The OP was asking about the bottoming or banging in the rear of his Kmod. Its the adjustable coupling block hitting the scissor when you start to push the suspension hard,is what I found on mine. Don't push it to hard it is very supple, start pushing it and the scissor is banging off the adjustable block.

winter brew · Feb 15, 2015

Maybe pull the coupler blocks for a ride to see if it is truly bottoming or hitting the coupler blocks?
Also, bottoming once is a while is (for me) a good thing. It shows you are using all your travel, as long as it's only once in a while under typical use.

tdbaugha · Feb 16, 2015

assault11 said:
A coupled skid will never work as good for technical riding as an uncoupled. Coupled skid do not get up on the snow good at slow speeds and they make the sled feel a lot heavier. If you have a stock sled the best suspension you can have is stock skid with high end shocks. With a turbo stock skid and the skinz arc works very well. If you want to climb chutes I would do the racers edge. It is, IMO, the toughest skid out there

I agree to disagree about getting up on the snow and heavy feeling of the KMOD vs stock skid. Assuming correct setup obviously.

I've had my KMOD installed with stick motor and track, stock motor 3", and Fastrax motor 3". With the stock track it was quicker on top and more fun vs the stock skid. Now that I have the 3" and hp its a different story. I have to sacrifice a little bit on the floatation department to keep the light front end. But once you get close, small tweaks to the skid make a big difference. Keep in mind I'm 220lbs and running a 156. I'm pretty confident that the stock skid could not do the same with my weight and track.

stormrider_69 · Feb 16, 2015

tdbaugha said:
I agree to disagree about getting up on the snow and heavy feeling of the KMOD vs stock skid. Assuming correct setup obviously.

I've had my KMOD installed with stick motor and track, stock motor 3", and Fastrax motor 3". With the stock track it was quicker on top and more fun vs the stock skid. Now that I have the 3" and hp its a different story. I have to sacrifice a little bit on the floatation department to keep the light front end. But once you get close, small tweaks to the skid make a big difference. Keep in mind I'm 220lbs and running a 156. I'm pretty confident that the stock skid could not do the same with my weight and track.

i agree with you, my stock 2015 163 sled with conversion kmod and raptor, float more and stay more on the snow with the kmod at low speed than the stock suspension. trench a lot less with the kmod

If i go WOT on take-off, the stock get the on the snow just a hair quicker than my kmod, but as soon the sled is moving, the Kmod wins.

For the OP, i had my shock revalved stiffer last year not for that reason (was a mistake by the guy who done the season maintenance of the shock) and i didnt liked that. Im back to stock valving this year

For the trail riding and almost all my riding, im on #3 with shock set at 10'' and front at 7.5 (am 220#) clicker at 5, it bottom once in a while in deep hole that i didnt saw with a 10l jerry can full), never bottomed on bump. I recommend #3 for trail riding, suspension is coupling a lot quicker.

the only thing , its easy to get lost in the setup, so many way to adjust the kmod. I wish there was a tuning guide for it.

ditch1000 · Feb 16, 2015

I talked to Kevin, today.... He's thinking the shock is probably sacked out a bit or has moisture in it and is going to fix it under warranty, also I'm going to get it revalved to the next stiffest setting at the same time.... Also, I'm going to purchase the raptor for the front as well while I'm doing it!! I've had the KMod for 3 seasons, it has worked well up until now, but I think it is time for a service.... Can't beat talking to him and his customer service is pretty stand up!!!

ditch1000 · Mar 22, 2015

Just an update... I got my shock back with it re-valved to his #2 valving and purchased the Raptor shock for the front; no more problems bottoming out on the sharp bumps!! And to boot, I purchased the 37" front end for my Pro; it side-hills and handles like a dream now!!
Today, it felt like a new sled, only better!!!

Thanks for the setup Kevin!!

Search

KMod Setup Questions

ditch1000

Well-known member

richracer1

Well-known member

BILTIT

Well-known member

ditch1000

Well-known member

assault11

Well-known member

ditch1000

Well-known member

tdbaugha

Well-known member

ditch1000

Well-known member

sledhead9825

Well-known member

Norway

Well-known member

assault11

Well-known member

sledhead9825

Well-known member

winter brew

Premium Member

tdbaugha

Well-known member

stormrider_69

Free Member

ditch1000

Well-known member

ditch1000

Well-known member

Similar threads