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View Full Version : belt life on 06 rmk 700 159


polarisman
07-30-2008, 11:03 AM
I was wondering if anybody has had a problem with belt fraying after only 200 to 300 miles on a 2006 700 RMK 159? I heard about a heavy duty belt that is supposed to help does anybody know or not? Does anyone know any other way to stop it or if it common.

CreteRider
07-30-2008, 05:21 PM
I owned a 06 900 RMK for a very short time, had some problems but not belt fray related. One of the first things I do with any sled is gear down though. Do a search on these forums, you'll find lots of helpful information.:)

NO IQ
07-30-2008, 09:40 PM
Have an '06 RMK 700 that made it about 1100 miles last season on the stock type 080 belt , did not let go until spring riding . I was going to replace it with the heavy duty belt ( 115 ? ) , but at twice the cost of the 080 belt I was not sure it would last twice as long. I do have 2 Cool side panel vents and Fire & Ice air intake that I believe help with airflow around clutches and belt . Ran the last spring rides with no side panels . Hope this helps.

krat
07-31-2008, 08:05 PM
I have a 05 900 rmk with the same clutch/belt and the #....115 belt does not have the same angle and the sled was creaping on idle once warm. stay with the 3213080

- If your belt wear on one side only (on top), look at you pulleys alignment. (less than 0.020")
- Inspect you engine mounts, torque stop, install slp torque/push arms... to limit engine movement
- clean the pulleys if the surface is rough or scratched (sanded paper & graphite cleaner)
- check the clutches for proper and smooth actuation. If the bushing in the driven clutch (secondary) jams the movable sheave, the belt wont go all the way in on top end speed and the drive clutch (primary) will continue to move the belt up and expand the belt and will eventually break as the rpm keeps going up.
- a higher engagement rpm is also bad for the belt
- a spotted belt (lock track, or wacking the throttle with parking brake on) will break later on top end speed.
-
That was my first post here. Nice to see an active snowmobile forum in summer.

I will put my sled on a dyno before the winter. Once I know the rpm for the peak HP and peak torque I will overhaul my clutches with new settings.

krat

sleddude
08-02-2008, 09:49 PM
I have an 06 900 166 and got 430 miles out of my 080 belt so I went to the 115 belt and put in some vents and got a couple hunderd more out of it. I geared it down this spring and from listening to guy's on here that should solve the problem. Your sled is the same setup as mine is all you need to do is take the chain case cover off and put a 19t on top and a 42t on bottom you can use the same chain. Refill your chain case with ATF transmission fluid when your done. It will pull and climb like a monster plus less belt heat and trench less. One other thing I did was have the shop install the torque arm and I put on the torque stop from SLP. When it was there they said my factory torque stop was off by over a 1/4in. so you might check that. pm me if you have any questions.

Ron
08-03-2008, 07:01 AM
The 115 belt will outlast the 080 by a bunch but requires changes to clutch setup (Bl/Purple spring) & shimming the drive clutch sheave for the 115 that is slightly wider.
Add checking motor mounts (known issue) to the above list. That's why Poo quit producing those engines-couldn't get MM's to last.

polarisman
08-04-2008, 08:30 AM
Thanks for all your guys input, i've been making some calls to dealer and reading the posting and it sound like putting the slp torque/push arms and the hot air elimination kit on will help, still not sure about putting the 115 belt on or not. How much longer should the belt last? Is the slp torque/push arms hard to put on or do i need to take it to a dealer. I was also thinking on putting an slp can on would that get rid of some heat under the hood.

mountainhorse
08-06-2008, 12:59 AM
The torque arms will help.

Go with some good vents on the side panels to get heat out.

What is your current clutch setup. (weights, spring, helix, secondary spring and gearing)

Also, MOST of the sleds that Ive looked at (900/700's) do not have the clutches shimmed correctly for the .020" side clearance, or the deflection set correctly.

The problem with the 900/700's is that you cannot align the clutches if they are off... there is no adjustment for this.

Good luck...

I'd go with the 3211115 belt if it were my sled.

The 2006 mounts were much improved over the 2005's... but can cause problems.

Also, the bolts that mount the front motor mount plate to the bulkhead are prone to breaking... replace those bolts with grade 8 or 9 bolts.... the same for the rear mounts.
The 2 bolts that hold the mounts to the engine are also prone to breakage... inspect them as well.

NewfieBullet1973
08-06-2008, 10:05 AM
We geared my sled down last year and added the torque arm/stop as well as some work on the clutch and a SLP can/pipe. I installed the new belt (115) at the start of the year (had the belt deflection adjusted) and got the whole year out of the belt (1300 miles) and still seems OK. I am adding some vents this year so it should be even better for belt life.

sleddude
08-06-2008, 08:09 PM
You have to pull the primary to install the torque arm.