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Mr Wright
12-12-2007, 12:13 PM
Looking at getting the slp air box for a 06 900 RMK. I see that it requires the removal of the front radator. The weight savings and new air box sounds great but I'm wondering if any one has had problems keeping it cool with out that front radiator.

410Fortune
12-12-2007, 12:15 PM
no
in fact it appears to run cooler without it from what I have read

Both of our 900's have this removed, one of them has the SLP airbox.

Ditch the radiator, run the SLP airbox you will be quite pleased

866RMK
12-12-2007, 12:46 PM
Ditch the radiator, run the SLP airbox you will be quite pleased

Ditto! Lose the radiator.



.

diamonddave
12-12-2007, 12:48 PM
Ditch it, but I'd look into the Timbersled airbox much better

Boomshaw
12-12-2007, 01:09 PM
Dump the radiator. Just dead weight unless traveling on trail at least 10mph. You will cool better than the radiator did by adding belly pan vents before and after the shock tower.

Radiator is useless in powder. Delete the dead hose loop that went to the radiator also and reroute the hoses by eliminating the three-way coupling. All coolent will flow out of the engine, through the front track cooler, through your left rail, through the rear heat exchanger, through your right hand rail, and back into the recovery bottle.

Gut (remove inner baffle and foam) your stock air box. You save at best a couple of pounds of weight up front (I weighed every piece that came out and compared to what each manufacturer said their new intake weighed) using other after market air boxes but will now draw warm air for the engine much of the time while your stock air box still draws cold dry air from the instrument console.

The Fire-n-Ice intake is another alternative to the stock box gutted and allows for your spare belt to be relocated under the hood instead of in your pack after the radiator delete. Cost is $250 though and gutting your stock box is free. With either of these choices, definitely add more intake screens at the instrument console.

There is a detailed thread on all of this on the old forum.

Boomshaw
12-12-2007, 01:17 PM
This should answer all of your questions. At least for another couple of months!

http://www.snowest.com/fusetalk/messageview.cfm?catid=89&threadid=300297&highlight_key=y&keyword1=radiator%20removal

SnowPro
12-12-2007, 01:19 PM
Dealer had one with SLP intake and one stock and the SLP one w/o radiator ran cooler. SLP also claims around 4 hp increase with their intake. It was designed by tri city polaris I think. I have been real happy with mine, run it in tons of deep powder.

Boomshaw
12-12-2007, 01:26 PM
SLP makes that claim under the "best case scenario" rule. That is, on the trail. Air flows unobstructed directly into the engine.

Powder can change that, hence the second inlet with the ability to breath under hood air when the other inlet is obstructed with snow. If it works for you, run it! To each their own. I didn't want to have to ruin a factory part to make the SLP work, but that's just me! If I bought a sled with the SLP on it, I wouldn't go through the effort to change it out until and unless I needed to down line.

jfield
12-12-2007, 06:35 PM
lose it.

sleddude
12-12-2007, 07:19 PM
I went on my first ride Sunday since I put the Slp air box on and my sled ran way cooler. I did notice a small amount of powder snow on the air box that came in through the lower vent on the nose of the hood. What is everyone doing to prevent that?

410Fortune
12-13-2007, 10:48 AM
seal up the nose plastic with some pre filter material and black silicoln

Also SLP suggests sealing up around the headlight and a few other places on your stock hood.

I only had a problem when I got my sled stuck in a ditch and the nose was pushed into the snow pretty good

Last weekend I rode powder all day long with no issue, some snow in there wont hurt the intake, its when both screens get wet and freeze you have a problem

bigtoyz
12-13-2007, 11:39 AM
Remove te rad and put fire n ice one on. If you ever put the new bumper on te slp air box will not work. timber and fire n ice are the only one that will work besides the stock one.

Patrick

Iowaplowboy
12-13-2007, 04:05 PM
It's extra weight you don't need. Polaris doen't put a rad in their new sleds.

I was riding with a buddy that had a post ram into his radiator and put it out of service until we could get a piple to by-pass the rad.

happyfast79
12-13-2007, 06:56 PM
pull the radiator and also take off all the hoses dont just loop them or put a orfice in there, just adds wieght and lets the hot coolant bypass the heat exchangers, i just bought a straight 3/4" nipple to replace the tee and the a pieace of 1"hose and a piece of 1" aluminum bar stock about 1.5" long to plug the nipple off the coolant bottle. works great, also get the fire and ice box. way better than the slp box for the pow, as it gets the air from up by the winshield,and also get the windshield intake kit and if its a 05 get the plenum offset kit, i love mine

Dogmeat
01-23-2009, 05:37 PM
Is it a 3/4" or 1" union you buy to replace the tee?

benamen
01-23-2009, 06:16 PM
three quarters of an inch for the couplers. Just did two deletes a couple weeks ago.

FLASH1970
10-23-2009, 08:12 AM
Some really nice 900s out there.

I'm going to repost a few of my pictures. I have been working on it for the last three weeks on and off and added some stuff.

I now have the Skinz front bumper, Better Boards, Mountain Addictions gas rack, Craigerbuilt tunnel pack, SLP LED tail light, and SLP Rad Delete, and Gripper skis.



Have you noticed any temperature differences with the radiator deleted? I'm tossing around the idea of removing mine.

chunkysoup
10-23-2009, 08:45 AM
Have you noticed any temperature differences with the radiator deleted? I'm tossing around the idea of removing mine.

It all depends on how u ride. I installed the slp airbox on my sled which requires u to remove the radiator and they give u a little restrictor to put in the hose. When i ride trails i can get temps of 200 and higher which causes the engine to retard but if u run in deep snow it cools down but still runs around 170 or so. I removed the restrictor this year and i will see how that does.:beer;

GD2GO
10-23-2009, 09:12 AM
It all depends on how u ride. I installed the slp airbox on my sled which requires u to remove the radiator and they give u a little restrictor to put in the hose. When i ride trails i can get temps of 200 and higher which causes the engine to retard but if u run in deep snow it cools down but still runs around 170 or so. I removed the restrictor this year and i will see how that does.:beer;

I'm the second owner of my 900 and the rad was removed by the original owner. Not sure about the restrictor, but with slidekicks installed I run 120-130 in the powder, and 140-155 on the trails. Without the slidekicks I was reaching 180-200 on trails and would pull over and put snow on the tunnel etc. Ice scratchers of some kind help alot IMO.

FLASH1970
10-23-2009, 09:20 AM
I'm the second owner of my 900 and the rad was removed by the original owner. Not sure about the restrictor, but with slidekicks installed I run 120-130 in the powder, and 140-155 on the trails. Without the slidekicks I was reaching 180-200 on trails and would pull over and put snow on the tunnel etc. Ice scratchers of some kind help alot IMO.

It seems like A LOT of the people that have 900's have the RMK's and don't trail ride much. I trail ride 95% of the time so I don't always have fresh powder to cool my sled down so I've been hesitant to remove it.

nmmiles
10-23-2009, 10:01 AM
Remove it but make sure you delete the entire loop. Not dont just join the inlet out let of the radiator ends. Don't put the restrictor in, and get a set of scratchers. You will ALWAYS run cooler if you do this. I removed mine last year and I was running mostly trails then. I was hitting 160's like nothing and then I did the above and now im never over 140. I hold right at 126 most of the time. Vents help alot also. The thermostat on this sled opens at 126 so the closer you stay the that the better. If you delete your radiator you will run cooler on trails and off.

FLASH1970
10-23-2009, 10:16 AM
Remove it but make sure you delete the entire loop. Not dont just join the inlet out let of the radiator ends. Don't put the restrictor in, and get a set of scratchers. You will ALWAYS run cooler if you do this. I removed mine last year and I was running mostly trails then. I was hitting 160's like nothing and then I did the above and now im never over 140. I hold right at 126 most of the time. Vents help alot also. The thermostat on this sled opens at 126 so the closer you stay the that the better. If you delete your radiator you will run cooler on trails and off.

My sled has vents, and I've done some research on the proper way to do the radiator delete but I'm still a little unclear as to what ice scratchers are, what they do, and where to get them. I'm a little new to sleds. I have a little more research to do. Thanks for the tips.

06 RMK 900
10-23-2009, 10:28 AM
Have you noticed any temperature differences with the radiator deleted? I'm tossing around the idea of removing mine.
I have not rode with it out yet. I was really nervous about doing it but after reading TONS of threads about it on here sounds like it will run cooler.

Ex-Member
10-23-2009, 10:38 AM
Have you noticed any temperature differences with the radiator deleted? I'm tossing around the idea of removing mine.
mine ran cooler all around without it.

ghostwhite
10-23-2009, 11:44 AM
My sled has vents, and I've done some research on the proper way to do the radiator delete but I'm still a little unclear as to what ice scratchers are, what they do, and where to get them. I'm a little new to sleds. I have a little more research to do. Thanks for the tips.

Ice scratchers have a few forms but all accomplish the same thing. They dig into the snow or ice and throw up ice chips and snow. These airborne chips spray the hifax, thus lubricating it and rear coolers to help cool the sled.

They are designed for use when riding on harder snow and trails where the snow isn't flung around as much by the track.

Heres an image of slidekicks. The only reverse compatible scratcher I am aware of.

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x234/Dave1200RT/Winter%202007%20season/sledsidekicks.jpg

guidoxpress
10-23-2009, 11:59 AM
^^ what he said..but i prefer the scratchers from SUMMITSEEKER on the forum..i bought 2 sets from him last year and theya re AWESOME..$45/set..send him a PM or do a search for his product on here..

IMO the sidekicks do not have enough tension to really get in the ice and scrape enough to lube/cool the sled..but some have had good luck with them..

ghostwhite
10-23-2009, 12:38 PM
I used traditional scratchers from holz last season and they lasted until around the 5th or 6th time I reversed with them down. The tips broke off first, then the shafts broke. SummitSeekers scratchers are said to be a lot stronger and better made than others and I believe that.

I put two sets of slidekicks on this year and will see how that goes. I do have to say though, these things are BUILT. I have heard they got update from the first release. The pics dont do these things justice and I dont have any worries about lack of pressure.

I will definately let you guys know!

LPIdaho
10-23-2009, 01:15 PM
I have not rode with it out yet. I was really nervous about doing it but after reading TONS of threads about it on here sounds like it will run cooler.

it certainly won't run any warmer w/o out it and that's kind of the point of all the threads is that the rad. doesn't do anything

ghostwhite
10-23-2009, 01:35 PM
it certainly won't run any warmer w/o out it and that's kind of the point of all the threads is that the rad. doesn't do anything

LP is correct. It has been explained to death already in multiple posts but take it from those that have done it and had amazingly positive results.

It has a lot to do with improper airflow to the radiator and poor cooling system design allowing hot coolant to re-enter the coolant bottle.

Here is how to remove Link (http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=157449)

GD2GO
10-23-2009, 01:54 PM
It seems like A LOT of the people that have 900's have the RMK's and don't trail ride much. I trail ride 95% of the time so I don't always have fresh powder to cool my sled down so I've been hesitant to remove it.


I didn't notice that you're riding a fusion. And you have a good point. The only reason to remove the radiator is to loose weight and that's the only way to use the SLP air horn and may some other aftermarket air horn kits, which also loose weight. For RMK/deep snow riders loosing weight is the issue and trails are only used to get to the deep. If you're riding trails most of the time and aren't concerned about weight, I wouldn't even consider removing it. The question for you I guess is why are you considering it. If you do choose to remove it IMO ice scratchers help alot and I think there is a thread on here somewhere about removing the radiator and not using the "restrictor" so that it the system is more free flow.

ghostwhite
10-23-2009, 02:06 PM
I didn't notice that you're riding a fusion. And you have a good point. The only reason to remove the radiator is to loose weight and that's the only way to use the SLP air horn and may some other aftermarket air horn kits, which also loose weight. For RMK/deep snow riders loosing weight is the issue and trails are only used to get to the deep. If you're riding trails most of the time and aren't concerned about weight, I wouldn't even consider removing it. The question for you I guess is why are you considering it. If you do choose to remove it IMO ice scratchers help alot and I think there is a thread on here somewhere about removing the radiator and not using the "restrictor" so that it the system is more free flow.

Good catch!

Yes the removing the radiator is most beneficial to RMK owners.

On the trail, scratchers are highly recommended if not mandatory if you remove the radiator. If you are satisfied with your current engine temps and loosing weight isnt an issue I wouldn't worry about removing the rad on a trail ridden fusion.

nmmiles
10-23-2009, 02:07 PM
Even if you run %100 trails removing the radiator will keep your sled cooler. FACT proven by many. Delete the loop and don't use the restrictor.

It cleans things up, looses weight, makes your sled run better, and allows for front bumpers and many other accessories. I can't think of anything bad that comes out of removing your radiator... (other than the cost of all the scratchers I go through because I grab a fist full of throttle when I am in reverse...I refer to it as just doing a headlight check!! LOL)

HUNDO
10-23-2009, 02:45 PM
Mine doesn't run any cooler but it doesn't run warmer either. So I guess the question is, if you can do it for free, reduce weight, eliminate a possible failure point (stick through the rad or bad hoses), why wouldn't you do it? The scratchers are a necessity regardless for cooling of the motor and hifax.

I just used a piece of galvanized flashing to close off the area where the rad once was...think it cost me $1.50

94fordguy
11-02-2009, 11:40 PM
TTT

This is the ORIGINAL Radiator Delete thread... finally got it moved into the 900 forum... :eek::D

powder dragin
11-11-2009, 11:00 AM
Remove the radiator, for sure. The weight savings alone make it an easy choice.
Did this to an '06 900, and was pleased with the results. No temp problems. Also had the SLP intake. Very pleased with it as well.
:D