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View Full Version : BYPASS THERMOSTAT UPGRADE (PREVIOUSLY $28 upgrade)


TRS
02-11-2013, 06:28 PM
EDIT: mountainhorse...
This thread outlines all the parts needed to do this upgrade, feedback and installation photos... Please read it from the first page to get all details.

From an e-tec, stops the heat soak. Holds 109-111F
Sorry, I can't get the picture to flip.


http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=2837&pictureid=27881

crf118r
02-11-2013, 06:57 PM
Seems like my 2013 already addressed the problem (comparing to my '11) if you're talking about it cooling off so quickly after a short shut down and start up. Mine stays above 100 degrees after restarting. I might be thinking about a totally different subject here tho if not :face-icon-small-blu

TRS
02-11-2013, 07:15 PM
Have not had the 160-170F heat soak when shut off and then the cold shot when restarted. Hits low 130's when shut down and after an hour it is in the 60's. Start up temp is very consistent. It runs at 109-111F out in the snow. This may be an upgrade needed for the turbo boys. I thought I would experiment with it. It will stay on this 2012 Pro sled. I am impressed with the stability of the water temps.

mountainhorse
02-11-2013, 09:20 PM
TRS...clean install... I like those Gates shrink-clamps too.

Diamond Dave and I looked into this in detail back in 2010/11....

Have you run this in marginal snow conditions?

I take it you removed the stock thermostat?

Also... the bypass end of the thermo... Does that remain open when the main circuit is open?

One of the nice things I like about this separate thermo is that it still bypasses some of the coolant through the cooler to help buffer "tip-in" temps.

Dave said to me in an email that he talked to the BRP engineers back in '07 when they were demoing the new XP's.. that the external thermo was giving them more consistent temps than the typical in-head thermostats. He used it to help with some cooling issues on the 1000 doos.


Some dwgs from 2011.


http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=2837&pictureid=27879\

http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=2837&pictureid=27880

mountainhorse
02-11-2013, 09:49 PM
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=2837&pictureid=27881

mountainhorse
02-11-2013, 09:54 PM
Running the Evans NPG+??


http://www.evanscooling.com/assets/products/_resampled/paddedimage214214-npgplus.jpg

.

mountainhorse
02-11-2013, 10:07 PM
TRS... how were you reading the engine temps when the engine was shut off??



.

Rick!
02-12-2013, 05:47 AM
TRS...clean install... I like those Gates shrink-clamps too.

Diamond Dave and I looked into this in detail back in 2010/11....

Have you run this in marginal snow conditions?

I take it you removed the stock thermostat?

Also... the bypass end of the thermo... Does that remain open when the main circuit is open?


Nope, it has a poppet like 600 rush or 900 poo and shuts off the bypass when the stat opens a few mm.


One of the nice things I like about this separate thermo is that it still bypasses some of the coolant through the cooler to help buffer "tip-in" temps.

Dave said to me in an email that he talked to the BRP engineers back in '07 when they were demoing the new XP's.. that the external thermo was giving them more consistent temps than the typical in-head thermostats. He used it to help with some cooling issues on the 1000 doos.

TRS
02-12-2013, 08:03 AM
MH,
Thanks, it's an easy install.
Eliminated the stock thermostat.
Good catch. I tried the Evans coolant in the stock configuration with/without a thermostat. It doesn't work in the Pro. In winter temps the Evans gets to thick in our tunnel coolers and will not pump. I had many discussions with John Light at Evans about this. Their engineers are looking for a fix. It may work with the e-tec housing.
As far as temps go, I tried to replicate real world situations. I rode the sled hard and did start ups after 15-20-30 min and 1 hour shut down times. With both stock and e-tec systems.
Marginal snow conditions, yes, Cooke City to Pilot Creek(8.6mi) many times. From -10F to 23F. Scratchers down on basic ice trail and a max of 136F. It is a consistent 114-117 on the trail.

TRS
02-12-2013, 08:13 AM
MH,
I was going to use the old heavy thermo housing from my 93 Storm for the test. But this unit is light weight, cheap at $28 retail and has a 99 degree thermostat.:D With this setup there are no issues with bleeding the system, basically fill and go.

geo
02-12-2013, 10:19 AM
Cold shot and remote thermostat aside, why does this run cooler? Is it the 99 thermostat or is it less restrictive?
10 degrees is a big difference for the same heat exchangers and pump.

TRS
02-12-2013, 12:06 PM
Geo,
It's the 99F vrs 120F that Polaris uses. With this type of bypass system it should eliminate the hot spots in the motor. The small bypass hole in the stock thermostat, IMO, causes a lot of problems. One is stagnant coolant. With the e-tec housing it is continualy moving coolant at the max pump output.

ak
02-12-2013, 12:13 PM
Xp owners were ditching the stock ones for this one a few years back maybe it's better?

http://www.engine-tech.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=48

mountainhorse
02-12-2013, 12:39 PM
ak... looks slick...but then you would have to change the title to the $168 upgrade... ha.




.

TRS
02-12-2013, 12:46 PM
Just a side note. I also believe the stock heat exchangers are on the edge of being marginal. With a 21F smaller thermostat, we are not seeing that reflected in operating temps.

gorilla
02-12-2013, 04:09 PM
Part numbers for what's all needed. Thanks. I really wanna do this.

Dootimes2
02-12-2013, 06:10 PM
Hope it works. I went with a aftermarket heat exchanger from HM Turbos. It plumbs in to the stock plug by thermostat and then you drill out the plug in the unused hose port on the coolant bottle. The exchanger is 19" long and 6" wide. It mounts on the flat part of tunnel under fuel tank towards the front of the tunnel. Part of the cooling issues with the stock heat exchangers it that they are lacking coolant volume. It would work better it the rear of the tunnel, but this requires no cutting and welding. Also I turned up oil and rerouted ves vent hose while everything was apart. Cannot ride again until Sunday so I will let you know how it works. It is however a $350 - $400 upgrade. Another $28 might make it a complete package. Sorry if I jacked the thread, but the combo might end all our heat problems.

TRS
02-12-2013, 08:09 PM
BRP
1- 509000499 Thermo housing with internal thermostat
1- 509000372 3/4 x 1 barbed tee
Napa
4- power grip 42934
2- power grip 42925
1- 5/8 bypass cap 660-1696 1-8205 hose
1-7378 hose
Polaris
1- CT clamp 7080533
Washer for thermostat replacement 34mm OD, 27mm ID, 1mm thick

geo
02-13-2013, 11:21 AM
Thanx TRS.
Marginal is good as long as it is enough. I find my sled balances out about 133 to 140 (I'm good with that) crawlin`in the trees in this spring type weather. Last year my PC HCR (short front cooler) never did. It would continue to climb in temp and then I had to dig in. Friends following were unhappy lol.
I believe the difference is the greater amount of heat sink (material that carries the heat away from the coolers) available for the Pro coolers. `Bin watching and feeling for that lately (cause I intend to improve on this next year, extra ccs will need extra cooling lol).
Did you know that the rear bumper brackets are part of the cooling system lol. Have a "feel" lol.

I was thinking of removing the thermostat for spring (and replacing with the "correct" washer). Did you try that TRS?
Also does this set-up eliminate the "coolant spike" at full load? My sled will climb to 131-133 (and stay there 'til I back out) quickly at full load in deep snow and it is not a lack of snow on the coolers issue. It's like there is a "short-circuit" during full coolant flow in the head?? The rest of the time she is quite happy at 125.

I definately will be do what you have done here for next early season riding. You just saved me some weight and money lol.

diamonddave
02-13-2013, 11:54 AM
Nice work TRS. I've been too lazy to do this, still have my t-stat to try. I've been testing some other stuff.

You are correct about the stock bypass hole in the t-stat. I have been adding 2 additional bypass holes to the stock t-stat and notice less temp swings on start-ups since.

TRS
02-14-2013, 05:17 AM
Thanx TRS.
Marginal is good as long as it is enough. I find my sled balances out about 133 to 140 (I'm good with that) crawlin`in the trees in this spring type weather. Last year my PC HCR (short front cooler) never did. It would continue to climb in temp and then I had to dig in. Friends following were unhappy lol.
I believe the difference is the greater amount of heat sink (material that carries the heat away from the coolers) available for the Pro coolers. `Bin watching and feeling for that lately (cause I intend to improve on this next year, extra ccs will need extra cooling lol).
Did you know that the rear bumper brackets are part of the cooling system lol. Have a "feel" lol.

I was thinking of removing the thermostat for spring (and replacing with the "correct" washer). Did you try that TRS?
Also does this set-up eliminate the "coolant spike" at full load? My sled will climb to 131-133 (and stay there 'til I back out) quickly at full load in deep snow and it is not a lack of snow on the coolers issue. It's like there is a "short-circuit" during full coolant flow in the head?? The rest of the time she is quite happy at 125.

I definately will be do what you have done here for next early season riding. You just saved me some weight and money lol.

I have not witnessed the coolant spike at full load in deep snow.
The spring type snow conditions, that is a question I can not answer at this time. And to be honest, I hope that is a few months away.
We removed the thermostats in the 08-09 Dragons and replaced it with an aluminium washer with a .750" hole. I played with differant restriction sizes. With the 08-09 mapping they ran better and had a much longer life. An added benifit was less ice on the running boards.
The mapping in the Pro does not like coolant temps below 98F. The mapping also seems to have a negative effect when coolant temps get north of 129F. The e-tec configuration is keeping it within these parameters.

TRS
02-14-2013, 05:31 AM
Nice work TRS. I've been too lazy to do this, still have my t-stat to try. I've been testing some other stuff.

You are correct about the stock bypass hole in the t-stat. I have been adding 2 additional bypass holes to the stock t-stat and notice less temp swings on start-ups since.

I have added additional holes also. It was better, but I am trying to find a solution.
I would bet this motor would benifit from a head cover with an outlet for each cyl. and a rail?

TRS
02-14-2013, 07:49 AM
I also tried a 110F thermostat. It's a drop in out of a quicksilver outboard @$38.00.
I modified it with larger bypass holes. It was not the improvement I was looking for.

Fast_XC
02-18-2013, 12:22 PM
I also tried a 110F thermostat. It's a drop in out of a quicksilver outboard @$38.00.
I modified it with larger bypass holes. It was not the improvement I was looking for.
Do you have the part number for this? I would like to try it on my IQr
Thanks,
Neil

TRS
02-18-2013, 01:50 PM
Mercury F528068
Sierra Marine 18-3559

TRS
02-22-2013, 07:16 AM
Another option for the barbed Tee. BRP 509000372

roni87
02-22-2013, 03:39 PM
Thinking of removing my thermostat all together. Do you need to run a washer as a restrictor? or is wide open ok if you get close to the temps mentioned earlier?

I'm hitting temps of low 140's while in deep snow at speed, I'm thinking the tstat might be sticking closed a bit.

Little Eddy
02-23-2013, 08:07 AM
I bought the 13 Pro this fall as I am needing hip joint replacement and it was the only sled that I could comfortably ride (came off a Skidoo). Because of my hip I find that I cannot always ride at speed due to the rough terrain. My Pro will show a steady 127* at speed but when slowed down it will run 165 to 175 with scratchers down. Sometimes when moving to different areas on the mountain I have seen over 185*. I stop and pile snow on the tunnel to help cool it down. I am always worried about it being so hot, but its either ride it hot or leave it sit in the shop.
TRS , do you think this thermostat mod will help keep my sled cooler at the sustained slower speeds that I sometimes need to travel at ?

TRS
02-23-2013, 04:31 PM
I bought the 13 Pro this fall as I am needing hip joint replacement and it was the only sled that I could comfortably ride (came off a Skidoo). Because of my hip I find that I cannot always ride at speed due to the rough terrain. My Pro will show a steady 127* at speed but when slowed down it will run 165 to 175 with scratchers down. Sometimes when moving to different areas on the mountain I have seen over 185*. I stop and pile snow on the tunnel to help cool it down. I am always worried about it being so hot, but its either ride it hot or leave it sit in the shop.
TRS , do you think this thermostat mod will help keep my sled cooler at the sustained slower speeds that I sometimes need to travel at ?

I don't think it will. If you are not traveling fast enough to throw snow up into the tunnel it will not cool.
Have someone follow along side of you and see where the snow is going.
You may try a hillclimb flap that lays on the snow. It should let the track carry the snow to the coolers instead of thrown out the back.

TRS
02-23-2013, 04:38 PM
Thinking of removing my thermostat all together. Do you need to run a washer as a restrictor? or is wide open ok if you get close to the temps mentioned earlier?

I'm hitting temps of low 140's while in deep snow at speed, I'm thinking the tstat might be sticking closed a bit.

I would pull the thermostat and check what temp it opens. Put it in water on the stove with a thermometer. Turn it on high and watch the thermometer to see when the thermostat opens. Check the bypass hole in the thermostat, some were plugged.

TRS
02-23-2013, 04:53 PM
I have received PM's that Snowesters have not been finding the reducing tee at NAPA. I called my NAPA store today to get the part number. I found out that it was a miss-packaged part, that's why it was on the shelf. I must apologize for this misinformation.
The BRP tee is an option or a 1"tee using a 90 degree hose with 1" on one end and 3/4" on the other.

frontierfire
02-23-2013, 08:24 PM
Thanks I ordered the BRP tee today.

ditch1000
02-24-2013, 12:28 PM
So how does this kit compare to the stock pro on running temps??? What are guys seeing when riding??? Might start ordering parts tomorrow for this.

snobyrd
03-06-2013, 01:49 PM
does the t stat come with the housing or is there a separate number for this?

T G
03-06-2013, 03:35 PM
yeap comes with he'll be in tonight

frontierfire
03-06-2013, 04:20 PM
I installed this last weekend and my temps are still high, we had to ride about 3 miles across hard pack to get from sea level to where we go straight up to 2200 feet to play in the good stuff, even with scratchers down I was overheating also temps outside where warm though at about 36 degrees, had to stop several times to break up some crusty snow to throw on the tunnel as I was hitting up to 190.

wfieldin
03-06-2013, 08:29 PM
I am having the same experience, I really don't see much difference from the stock set up

TRS
03-06-2013, 08:49 PM
C'mon guys I said marginal snow not concrete. If you are hitting 190 the scratchers can't be throwing anything on the rear coolers. Your boat motor doesn't run cool in your driveway either.

The thermostat is in the housing.

tinkerjohnson
03-06-2013, 09:13 PM
I installed this last weekend and my temps are still high, we had to ride about 3 miles across hard pack to get from sea level to where we go straight up to 2200 feet to play in the good stuff, even with scratchers down I was overheating also temps outside where warm though at about 36 degrees, had to stop several times to break up some crusty snow to throw on the tunnel as I was hitting up to 190.

what about in good snow, how was your temp then thats more what everyone is looking at on hard pack its the cooleers not getting cooled down but in the pow thats not a prob how are the temps in the powder

tinkerjohnson
03-06-2013, 09:15 PM
I am having the same experience, I really don't see much difference from the stock set up

are you referring to all around no change or no change in the powder, no change on hardpack shed some light on what you are seeing

TRS
03-07-2013, 05:11 AM
Sorry for the rant. This will not fix a "no snow to the rear cooler riding issue". Lets help ourselves here. Fix it the old fashion way. Pack a mesh(18x24) onion, potato,or laundry bag with you. Pack two in case you lose one. Cheap,light weight, and only need it certain times of the year. When needed pack it full of snow and rubber snubber it to the (top) of your rear coolers. It may not look top of the line, but your riding.

wfieldin
03-07-2013, 06:19 AM
It holds a nice 110- 116 in powder, but as TRS states this is not a fix for hard pack trail riding.

TRS
03-07-2013, 07:33 AM
Operating temps seem to be very crucial on the CFI2. Here is an example, a 2013 PRO 155 800. I was clutching this sled. Long up hill pulls, long side hill pulls, tree riding(74 mi. day). At 125 to 127 degrees it would hold 8100 RPM and very responsive. When it hit 129 it would fall to 7900 RPM. At 131 it fell to 7600 which is below peak torque. At 7600 it could not and cannot recover and would drop to 7400. Get it back down to 125 and all was well again, hit 131 and you better be looking for an escape route. What is the ECU doing??? When running the sled down the trail, no load, wide open, and it hit 131 degrees it would drop 100-150 RPM. With a heavy load on the motor it is more evident on running issues.

pus1100
03-07-2013, 08:04 AM
Operating temps seem to be very crucial on the CFI2. Here is an example, a 2013 PRO 155 800. I was clutching this sled. Long up hill pulls, long side hill pulls, tree riding(74 mi. day). At 125 to 127 degrees it would hold 8100 RPM and very responsive. When it hit 129 it would fall to 7900 RPM. At 131 it fell to 7600 which is below peak torque. At 7600 it could not and cannot recover and would drop to 7400. Get it back down to 125 and all was well again, hit 131 and you better be looking for an escape route. What is the ECU doing??? When running the sled down the trail, no load, wide open, and it hit 131 degrees it would drop 100-150 RPM. With a heavy load on the motor it is more evident on running issues.

bingo.had all those symptoms with my 2011 pro.my 2013 std rmk WITH frontcooler has steady 51-53 degree celsius operating temp,unless hardpack without scratchers down.it runs very consistent,clutching is spot on.ECU is doing exactly what the beancounters in the warranty department tells it to do,flood the engine with gas and maybe yank the timing a little.

geo
03-07-2013, 11:04 AM
I don't think extra tunnel cooler would change my 13's (don't know anything about 11 and 12) temp spike.

I've watched my temp gauge since day one and even a stocker with too light a weight (meaning the clutch is not asking the motor to work very hard) hit's this spike. As TRS said it just starts to lose power at 129 and on up and it doesn't take long for a modified one to get there. 100 to 150' of good strong braap then it starts to sign off
One other thing happens here too. It doesn't make a difference if there is 6' of fresh or 6"! As soon as you back off and turn out you can glance at the temp and will see it drop. By the time you are straightened out and gravity takes effect the temp has dropped to 125 or 123 in a matter of seconds and it's all good again.
Coolers are doing their job but the coolant can't flow through the engine fast enough because of the restriction caused by the tiny (Doo one looks bigger) open thermostat IMO. 1" in at the pump and maybe 5/8" out at the top of the head. At full load on this light engine that's a big deal. At 3/4 throttle not so much.

I believe the majority of " not backshifting" and "won't pull more weight even with the added power" threads have a lot to do with this temp spike. I even think it is designed in so that the beancounters safety protocols can take effect more quickly.
I've pulled my plugs in the field and have seen the amount the timing retards at this temp. I'd guess at 2 to 4 degrees easy.

Thanx for the confirmation TRS and the cure. I can`t wait to reinstall the clutching my a** likes instead of the one my computor requires me to run. Your pick of thermostat makes it better than the others I looked into.
For open country riders with the long pulls, I think this is a big bang for the buck. Install and ask more from your motor with clutch load. It won't fall off now but be ready to give it some fuel in case the pipe temp sensor can't keep up.

800 pro. 130 some ponies on a dyno lol. If you've ridden one you wonder about that no.. If you do short pokes with 160 plus sleds you wonder about that no..
I think that by the time you get up to temp to do a pull on the dyno the engine is already retarding itself to give that no.. This is a strong motor from what my a** tells me.

Rick!
03-07-2013, 11:44 AM
I like the doostat thing but I bet that the running issues are related to intake air temp and maybe even exhaust pipe temp. I don't dispute your findings but I ain't buyin' a 500rpm drop due to a 4* F change in coolant temp.

TRS
03-07-2013, 01:05 PM
A 200 RPM loss at 129* started the process. Peak torque with a hot pipe is 7900. Drop below that and you are in the land of no return. Add to that motors, with miles on them, with lower comp. and the stock HD ex. springs take over and the valves close. More Rpm loss. Now the TPS tells the ECU you are at full throttle but have not reached the RPM threshold to close the EV solenoid. Everything is headed south until you back out of the throttle and get back into it.

pus1100
03-08-2013, 01:14 AM
Geo and TRS,in Realbass's push turbo thread there is a screenshot of his Vipec log.you can clearly see temp spikes related to tps/load,rpm and so on.i guess you can 'see' thermostat opening cycles in that log.

Andreas83
03-08-2013, 05:31 AM
Great thread.
I am using this idea for my iqr 1200 build.

snobyrd
03-09-2013, 10:28 PM
All I can say is WOW, I did this mod to my 13 pro with a rk drop in kit, and I was having powerloss issues at high rpms, my temps now are 115-120, and my sled can now pull 64 weights and hold revs at 81-8200. The funny thing that happened today though, most of my head bolts started leaking coolant, not sure why.
Myself and other members have been chasing our tails with low rs or " backshift " issues and I think the high coolant temps was the culprit.

ditch1000
03-10-2013, 10:02 AM
All I can say is WOW, I did this mod to my 13 pro with a rk drop in kit, and I was having powerloss issues at high rpms, my temps now are 115-120, and my sled can now pull 64 weights and hold revs at 81-8200. The funny thing that happened today though, most of my head bolts started leaking coolant, not sure why.
Myself and other members have been chasing our tails with low rs or " backshift " issues and I think the high coolant temps was the culprit.

Guess I'm doing it this week. I'm seeing the same rpm drops as you were. I have all the parts togther and will get it ready for next weekend.

geo
03-10-2013, 10:40 AM
Believe and just do it. Be ready to add some weight.

My stock thermostat opened up 100 thou at 140 degrees and 150 thou at 180 degrees.

Defective or by design ????

ditch1000
03-10-2013, 11:35 AM
Believe and just do it. Be ready to add some weight.

My stock thermostat opened up 100 thou at 140 degrees and 150 thou at 180 degrees.

Defective or by design ????

Once the heat soak is gone the kit should make the power that it's promised. Is that what you guys are seeing?? When I had mine loaded last week, when the motor would heat up (even in 2 1/2' of fresh powder) the power would fall off.
Can't wait to try it again this weekend with the new coolant bypass in place.

ak
03-10-2013, 11:46 AM
Go to the bottom of this page.http://floatingqrs.com/

Some one needs to build a resistor like this for polaris. They work good on the ski doos.

TRS
03-10-2013, 11:53 AM
Once the heat soak is gone the kit should make the power that it's promised. Is that what you guys are seeing?? When I had mine loaded last week, when the motor would heat up (even in 2 1/2' of fresh powder) the power would fall off.
Can't wait to try it again this weekend with the new coolant bypass in place.

Lets not get this thread into something that it was not intended to be. I didn't claim or promise any HP gain. I was witnessing temp issues I thought could be addressed in a cheap, simple manner. I found a fix and passed it on to my Pro brothers. I could have put this kit together and sold it, but that was not my intent.

ditch1000
03-10-2013, 12:03 PM
Lets not get this thread into something that it was not intended to be. I didn't claim or promise any HP gain. I was witnessing temp issues I thought could be addressed in a cheap, simple manner. I found a fix and passed it on to my Pro brothers. I could have put this kit together and sold it, but that was not my intent.

I'm not stating anything like that. I'm just saying that I think the power deleivery is being held back because of the high coolant temps. Now that this is being brought back under control; the kit will run as promised..... I don't think it is the fault of the kit; it is like you said, when the coolant temps hit 130 then engine detunes itself. We never saw those temps on the stock configuration.
I'm just glad guys like you take it upon yourself to experiment with this upgrade and pass it on to the rest of us. Like you said, you probably could have sold them yourself and made some good money on them... Hopefully someone else does not do that as you were the one to do the leg work on it.

geo
03-10-2013, 12:51 PM
I'm sorry TRS lol but IMO if you don't do this your hurting your motor even if you fool the putor with a resistor. Everything from diesels to gaspots run hotter and leaner today to satisfy EPA. I don't need it in my 2 skt toy.
I have to say though, as stupid as it sounds, you probably voided your warranty doing this unless you in good with your dealer. Poo won't be okay with allowing the motor to run in top tune FOR EVER lol.

You right though, this will not add a single HP. It will just let you use what you got for longer than 10 15 secs. I would love to see a dyno pull now at 110 degrees on a stocker.

TRS you should put together a kit. It took the better part of a day sourceing the parts and then wait another to get them in. Only 2 hrs from drain-to-burb to install though lol. It ended up to be a 110 Cdn dollar upgrade for me lol and I didn't even do the 5 bucks-apiece-uphere heat shrink clamps!
It would also be real nice to have purpose bent hoses so as the eliminate the restriction-wieght from the couplings. Id like to see 1" all the way instead of 3/4" restrictions along the path. I even "ported" my thermostat housing to be .85" instead of .7' cause I will finish the 1"-all-the-way this summer lol.

snobyrd
03-10-2013, 01:31 PM
jfyi stogans in gp got a few of these doo stats but no tees, mountin view in Dawson creek will have one in for me this week. but I don't need it now cause I got one at stogans, I also used the stock 1"90* hose , I didn't join it, just rotated it, so I only needed a 1" x3/4" tee and I made that myself since welding is my trade. so really all a guy needs is a tee and a 3/4 90* hose. thanks to TRS :cheer2:for thinking outside the polaris box:).
jeff

geo
03-10-2013, 01:58 PM
Put up a pic snobyrd.

TRS
03-10-2013, 07:05 PM
Thanks guys.

geo,
Also the water pump cover can use a little clean up along with the water passages in the upper case half.:face-icon-small-win

XP Summit
03-10-2013, 08:35 PM
Go to the bottom of this page.http://floatingqrs.com/

Some one needs to build a resistor like this for polaris. They work good on the ski doos.

I had the plug and go on my XP. Between that and two ring pistons it took a long pull to make that sled loss RPM's after those mods. It didn't feel like the peak HP was as high but always reliable, and consistent. I have always felt marketing love single ring pistons. Anyways, I would hope a similar product, or concept on a Pro could produce similar results.

pj8556
03-10-2013, 10:57 PM
First of all thanks for all this, its very interesting and I think it could solve the problems I have been having with my '13, a couple questions:

Can someone give a rough description of the assembly process??

And, on the parts list I'm confused... this is how it reads:

1)1 "barbed coupler
mis. hose 1)3/4"90
1)1"90

can someone clarify and give a little more detail??

THANKS!

pj8556
03-10-2013, 11:00 PM
also, does the etec therm. housing come with (correct) thermostat??

snobyrd
03-10-2013, 11:07 PM
First of all thanks for all this, its very interesting and I think it could solve the problems I have been having with my '13, a couple questions:

Can someone give a rough description of the assembly process??

And, on the parts list I'm confused... this is how it reads:

1)1 "barbed coupler
mis. hose 1)3/4"90
1)1"90

can someone clarify and give a little more detail??

THANKS!

U need a tee with 1" on both ends and 3/4" on the tee part, and they got rings going around the fitting as barbs to keep the hose on.
U need a 3/4" rad hose with a tight 90* bend in it with about 2"" of hose on either end of the bend.
U need a 1" hose with. 90* bend in it with aprox 10" on either side of the bend to go from the head to the new t stat.
I used my existing hose and made it work.

snobyrd
03-10-2013, 11:26 PM
A 200 RPM loss at 129* started the process. Peak torque with a hot pipe is 7900. Drop below that and you are in the land of no return. Add to that motors, with miles on them, with lower comp. and the stock HD ex. springs take over and the valves close. More Rpm loss. Now the TPS tells the ECU you are at full throttle but have not reached the RPM threshold to close the EV solenoid. Everything is headed south until you back out of the throttle and get back into it.

TRS
Where did u get this info, are u a teck, or have good sources, cause its funny ,I talked to 2 shops and they say 145 is where u start on a downward sprial not 129, but from my experience your correct and not them. Until I did this t stat mod,my engine mods made my sled worse than stock, regretting and pissed of at my self for wasting 2000 grand on engine improvements that left me embarrassed to say that I was modded.

TRS
03-11-2013, 09:57 AM
TRS
Where did u get this info, are u a teck, or have good sources, cause its funny ,I talked to 2 shops and they say 145 is where u start on a downward sprial not 129, but from my experience your correct and not them. Until I did this t stat mod,my engine mods made my sled worse than stock, regretting and pissed of at my self for wasting 2000 grand on engine improvements that left me embarrassed to say that I was modded.

All I can say is I have seen my share of DSM's and tech's come and go.

geo
03-11-2013, 11:12 AM
Trust your butt snobyrd. Trust your butt.

TRS. Will be done this summer when air flow gets a little help. I'm also planning on building a front cooler to cross over the coolant instead of just a rubber hose.
I've always found the power limitations of a NA motor was getting rid of the heat.

200smk
03-11-2013, 02:24 PM
Don't suppose anybody would do a 'walkthrough' with pictures for this??

Would love to do it, but not brave enough to mess with cooling systems and possible air bubbles etc.....need a dumbed down version...hehehe.

pj8556
03-12-2013, 09:01 PM
are the washers with the tstat mandatory?

and what tstat do you use? does the housing come with tstat?

200smk
03-13-2013, 08:27 AM
Thanks for the pics TRS.....that's a big help.

Ken Climb
03-13-2013, 08:44 AM
Somebody just make a kit already!

GoHiSK1
03-13-2013, 11:59 PM
late at night here , I am thinking that if you can not figure this install out you probably don`t need it.

Beat me up as you see fit !!!
Most Pro and Doo owners would not or have not ever experienced this phenomenon if it wast not posted by some very savy sled owners.

geo
03-14-2013, 10:34 AM
Just a update note after a few rides at the new temp for non stock guys.

Engine likes this and fuel stays consistant (safely richer). Changes to high load with the Boony box are felt and seen on the plugs. Before at stock temps, the effects of the 'putor over 129 degrees took over and I could never get this engine to go too rich. Now i can and i like it cause it eliminates one more "why" for me.

The other observation I'd like to pass on is about the engine timing. I've pulled plugs on tune days to check things all season. Could never get a consensus for me on what the timing was doing. Now with the cooler temps the timing is staying consistant.
IMO there is more power to be had with my mods and even less temp building in the head coolant with a little less timing. And I run non projected tip plugs.

I think I understand now how Poo has addressed the EPA and tried to make the 2skt live at these lean settings and still have cold pipe snap. I added 1 gr to the tip on the first ride and a 1/2 to the mid on the second ride. It definately can pull more but I'll wait until i do some research on retarding the timing without effecting the injection. Just to be safe in my mind.

800poodragon
03-14-2013, 12:32 PM
All I can say is WOW, I did this mod to my 13 pro with a rk drop in kit, and I was having powerloss issues at high rpms, my temps now are 115-120, and my sled can now pull 64 weights and hold revs at 81-8200. The funny thing that happened today though, most of my head bolts started leaking coolant, not sure why.
Myself and other members have been chasing our tails with low rs or " backshift " issues and I think the high coolant temps was the culprit.


Did you figure out why your headbolts started leaking coolant?

snobyrd
03-14-2013, 04:38 PM
Geo figured it out, the tstat on the head was leaking cause I didn't install a washer with a gasket, the coolant came out and pooled by all the bolt making it appear to be leaking from the bolts.

TRS
03-14-2013, 07:01 PM
A paper gasket may work instead of the washer/rubber thermostat gasket. I may try this on the next install.

XP Summit
03-14-2013, 07:49 PM
Somebody just make a kit already!

This would be a great idea. Let someone make a profit too:face-icon-small-hap. If they don't want to pay, show them the DIY thread :)

800poodragon
03-14-2013, 10:29 PM
A paper gasket may work instead of the washer/rubber thermostat gasket. I may try this on the next install.


Waiting on parts to do this....are you just using the stock gasget with no stat in place? Thanks.

pus1100
03-15-2013, 03:20 AM
Geo,what operating temp are you now running?is it steady,not fluctating?

wfieldin
03-15-2013, 07:05 AM
I gutted the existing t-stat, did not feel comfortable using the rubber washer without something inside to hold shape and thickness.

geo
03-15-2013, 12:39 PM
It's cooler but with still a spike of about 10 or 12 degrees now then again a very quick cool off after shut down.
Before it was only 6 or 7 degrees but the putor did it's thing with timing retard and leaning out and also now I'm actually working the motor harder and longer.

I think a lot of it is the timing like I said before and I'm leaving it rich because of that so the added pipe heat will have some effect too.

I guess I'll have to find out the rest next year cause I just got called back to work (sob sob lol) so no more tune days only blue sky weekend days lol.
Over the summer I'll finish the 1" all the way and try to add an aluminum cross over tube at the back of the bulkhead. But I really think retarding the non-retarded-by-the-computor timing will make a huge difference in head temps and pipe temps and be my last piece to my CFI puzzle.

Bin a good learning year for me cause I never had to dink with the handling. Love my Pro.

ditch1000
03-15-2013, 07:39 PM
I gutted the existing t-stat, did not feel comfortable using the rubber washer without something inside to hold shape and thickness.

X2. I did the same thing. I just took my sled for the initial run and could not believe the difference in temps. I was running 136-146 before installing the bypass. Now I'm running between 104 and 109 in 6" of fresh powder. I think this is gonna work out pretty nice.
Thanks TRS!!

snobyrd
03-15-2013, 08:20 PM
i gutted my stock t stat and used the remaining ring and rubber gasket for my seal, instead of silicone and no more leaks.

TRS you should get the 2013 snowest inovation award, theres alot of members on here that would hav went bald from pullin thier hair out without this fix, i bought a tied , several springs, weights,and helixes tryin to fix a power problem and in the end it was a 45$ fix...
tks man

jeff

ditch1000
03-16-2013, 08:49 PM
I rode in 18" of fresh powder today... 2800' - 3500'. Was pulling 66 grams and at times hitting as high as 8600 rpms!! The sled definitely makes the power now!!:D

TRS
03-17-2013, 06:32 AM
Thanks guys, much appreciated.
FYI I would add insulated heat tape to the pipe side of the thermostat housing. I have over 400 miles on the set up without any issues. Yesterday the thermostat stuck closed twice. Thinking the ex.can heat is getting to the thermo housing. This happened after extended 1 mile wide open pulls in warm outside temps. Is it a thermostat housing or thermostat failure????? I don't know. Will add tape this morning and replace the housing if necessary.
Put the upgrade on a 2012 600 Friday. He was having heat issues with an after market head.
New snow this morning, epic day ahead.

geo
03-17-2013, 09:56 AM
Good point I forgot to mention TRS. I have a SLP pipe and can and did the install on mine with these in place because it is a little tighter than stock.
It was close enough to the pipe that I heat taped the housing and 3/4" pipe just because.

The other thing that stuck in my mind is most Doo dealers stock these things out here. There has to be a reason for that too.

TRS
03-17-2013, 07:44 PM
Tape worked. Please tape your install.

wfieldin
03-18-2013, 07:00 AM
I'm going to be taking this off my 11 Pro, getting a different machine, it will be ready to go as soon as I get the replacement t-stat, had to order, it was not in stock. If someone is interested PM me. It will be complete with the original gutted stat. You will need 4 - 1" clamps to install. As most of you know this is not a $28 install by the time you are done. My local Napa carries the powerclamps, I can get them if you would like. Thanks

tdbaugha
03-19-2013, 07:43 AM
I wish I could get them to flip. Must be that iphone thing.

On this install was that the stock hose rotated?

TRS
03-19-2013, 08:44 AM
No sir, used the NAPA 8205 hose.

96sherm
03-19-2013, 12:50 PM
is there an easy way to drain the coolant enough to do this mod without making a mess? I made an enormous mess of coolant when I rebuilt my motor, rather not go through that again...

GoHiSK1
03-19-2013, 01:22 PM
I use an inexpensive pump action vacuum vessel . $30 - $50 .
Drain the coolant bottle first the remove then remove the coolant hose going to the thermostat housing on the cylinder head and suck the coolant out of that hose.
Next take the lower 1" hose off of the coolant bottle. Maybe place a shop cloth under the coolant bottle as there is still fluid in the hose as it runs parallel to the the chassis that runs to the lower front of the engine and water pump.

There are probably other ways but this procedure works very well for me.

beamslayer
03-19-2013, 03:10 PM
Looking for other option for 1" x1" x 3/4 " tee BPR is a week out . Napa person does not have anything .The only one I found online is for a irrigation system but no one waters their yards here .

snobyrd
03-19-2013, 04:12 PM
is there an easy way to drain the coolant enough to do this mod without making a mess? I made an enormous mess of coolant when I rebuilt my motor, rather not go through that again...

Wat I do is, remove the hose at the t stat , you'll loose a bit of coolant, but than take that hose , flex it back into a funnel and use a shop vac reversed ,to blow air through the lines , this method will drain a majority of the coolant.

GoHiSK1
03-20-2013, 12:00 AM
Went back and reread all the recent posts and did see that DITCH1000 did post running temps before and after the BRP mod.
I have witnessed the exact same readings on my 2013 PRO after the BRP Mod.
The following information is from back to back running conditions within about 2 hrs. and the same air temps. and the same snow conditions.
With Stock Polaris set up engine temps running in 6-8 inches of fresh snow are between 125 and 137+ F.
With the BRP setup the temps are showing 105 to 109 and holding steady.
Very little fluctuation even after repeated short full throttle runs.
I can verify what TRS and GEO have said about cool engine coolant temps and improved engine performance.
My sled is a totally different animal. Can now hang skies even with the 174x3" track . Not like a short track Ski Doo but have never experienced this on my Polaris Pro before.

GoHiSK1
03-20-2013, 12:45 AM
A little history on my 2013 PRO 163 .
Ran sled 3 days totally stock . Was very happy with how it performed compared to my 2011 or my 2012
Next 5 day ride I installed a 174x3 track and Avid extrovert drivers. (was torn between Turbo or a RKTek 858 )
Sled worked very well compared to stock 2013 Pros and XM sleds.
Took delivery of Silber Turbo and ordered a 858 RK Tek big bore.
Road a 2012 174x3 Silber turbo last year and was about 90 % Happy :)
After last years turbo experience and mostly steep and deep tree riding I thought I would like the instant throttle response of a naturally aspirated engine.
Had the 858 on order but did not take delivery before my next 5 day mountain trip so I added a SLP pipe setup and PCV .
Engine performed VERY well and was happy.
As luck would have it the 858 was delivered when i was away on mountain trip.
Installed the 858 and a FTX motor plate kit . Only put 10 miles on sled here in SASK. with the 858 engine mod. Was not blown away with the performance but was reading about $28.00 coolant kit since this thread started. Was skeptical as it seemed like the PRO was running the best it could with the HP that Polaris had provided us with.
Like I stated in my previous post the BRP mod has me now been a believer .
Turbo is still in the box and for sale :)
Am headed out West to the mountains in 4.5 hrs. and will report on the performance of both the 858 and the BRP mod.
Good night all .

pus1100
03-20-2013, 03:54 AM
give us a good ride report on the 858 with TRS thermostat mod.are there anyone running their 2013 PROS against/with 2013 std rmk?I rearly see anyone post how their std runs.my std 2013 runs very consistent,rpms and temps are steady.my 2011 PRO was not.wonder if the VIPEC guys are seeing this in the stock ECU?

rmscustom
03-20-2013, 08:31 AM
Is it possible that this will have a negative effect on engine life running 20 degrees cooler than it was intended to?

beamslayer
03-20-2013, 09:17 AM
I believe by running cooler the ecu would be adding more fuel and probable adjusting timing to compensate . Also a colder engine will stay more consistent as in expansion of cylinder and pistons .
Thanks TRS
Waiting on my parts to arrive and trying to locate a tee ,hopeful that this will get rid of my bog issue also.

m1kflyingtiger
03-20-2013, 09:53 AM
Is there anyone who has one apart who could measure the t-stat rubber size? I'm at work for another two weeks so i can't, but ordering up the parts so its ready when i am. I'm thinking an o ring would work just the same there instead of an aluminum washer.

If that's a bad idea what size does the aluminum washer need to be?

LoudHandle
03-20-2013, 10:08 AM
Is there anyone who has one apart who could measure the t-stat rubber size? I'm at work for another two weeks so i can't, but ordering up the parts so its ready when i am. I'm thinking an o ring would work just the same there instead of an aluminum washer.

If that's a bad idea what size does the aluminum washer need to be?

My opinion is an Oring or the "U" cup seal ring without something restraining it from pushing into to ID is asking for trouble. I'm at work also right now so I can't measure it.

fullboredragon
03-20-2013, 10:44 AM
I found the 1"x1"x3/4" tee at the local co-op hardware store for $2.50. Hope this helps. Also after a short ride temps were @116-122F with my RK DI kit. Before was like 138-140. Going to install the proper weights today and put 60 miles on around home AB CA

snobyrd
03-20-2013, 11:11 AM
Is there anyone who has one apart who could measure the t-stat rubber size? I'm at work for another two weeks so i can't, but ordering up the parts so its ready when i am. I'm thinking an o ring would work just the same there instead of an aluminum washer.

If that's a bad idea what size does the aluminum washer need to be?

if all else fails, cut the top and bottom hoop ,removing the guts of the stat, thats wat i did

96sherm
03-20-2013, 12:45 PM
if all else fails, cut the top and bottom hoop ,removing the guts of the stat, thats wat i did


What I plan to do also...

gopher-it!
03-20-2013, 02:33 PM
Installed the kit in my 2011 std rmk with a fastrx cfi1000. Temps are 113-120 on a hard pull . Works perfect, thanks for all the info!!!

TRS
03-20-2013, 03:37 PM
Please don't use a plumbing tee, it will collapse under heat. Find one made of nylon.

Washer dimensions for thermostat replacement.
OD 34mm
ID 27mm
thickness 1mm

Eivel
03-20-2013, 03:48 PM
jfyi stogans in gp got a few of these doo stats but no tees, mountin view in Dawson creek will have one in for me this week. but I don't need it now cause I got one at stogans, I also used the stock 1"90* hose , I didn't join it, just rotated it, so I only needed a 1" x3/4" tee and I made that myself since welding is my trade. so really all a guy needs is a tee and a 3/4 90* hose. thanks to TRS :cheer2:for thinking outside the polaris box:).
jeff
Do you have any pics of your install?
Having a hard time sourcing the parts needed.....

beamslayer
03-21-2013, 09:38 AM
Thanks TRS I am purchasing a tee from BPR after much internet time I found no tees of that size that would stand heat . There are no tees in the west they all are back east in a warehouse they have 10 in Georgia go figure . I tried telling the local Doo dealer he should think about stocking some but feel on def ears.
It would be alot easier if you would just market them as a kit . Not all Napa stores carry the gates clamps or the hoses and some are just mystified when you ask for the clamps .

m1kflyingtiger
03-21-2013, 10:35 AM
I'm having a little trouble seeing it, with the 8205 hose is the 1" coupler and a set of clamps no longer needed?

LoudHandle
03-21-2013, 12:05 PM
Thanks TRS I am purchasing a tee from BPR after much internet time I found no tees of that size that would stand heat . There are no tees in the west they all are back east in a warehouse they have 10 in Georgia go figure . I tried telling the local Doo dealer he should think about stocking some but feel on def ears.
It would be alot easier if you would just market them as a kit . Not all Napa stores carry the gates clamps or the hoses and some are just mystified when you ask for the clamps .

From memory the EDGE chassis 600's used a "T" like you are looking for with the 3/4" branch, and they may still on the newer sleds. Worth a quick look at the online parts sites? My still be able to source one locally?

beamslayer
03-21-2013, 01:12 PM
Good memory LoudHandle . #7052087 fits 98 440 xcr up until 2003 600 .1"x1"x3/4" tee

96sherm
03-22-2013, 12:47 PM
Completed this modification last night. Those Gates hose shrink clamps are awesome!!! Hopefully get out for a rip this weekend to see what the difference is.

TRS
03-22-2013, 05:51 PM
Good memory LoudHandle . #7052087 fits 98 440 xcr up until 2003 600 .1"x1"x3/4" tee

If my memory serves me right, I think it is a 1" tee. 1"x1"x1". Hose from the bottle was 3/4" and had a 1" slip on the end for the tee.

429dhm
03-23-2013, 08:38 AM
Any thoughts on the Terra Alps setup?

It looks simple but I imagine the aluminum housing could get heat soaked.

http://www.terraalpsracing.com/product/thermostat-kits

m1kflyingtiger
03-23-2013, 11:12 AM
Looks like it will do the same thing for $200 more.

mountainhorse
03-23-2013, 12:37 PM
Looks like the Engine Tech Billet thermostat housing for the Ski Doo, but comes with a hose.

http://www.engine-tech.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=48

Good write up on DooTalk about the billet t-stats
http://www.dootalk.com/forums/topic/274906-xp-free-hp/

http://www.engine-tech.com/shop/images/Billet%20Thermostat%20update.gif

mountainhorse
03-23-2013, 12:49 PM
On second look... the TA Thermostat is bigger... He goes through a lot to show the features in his FB page

http://www.facebook.com/home.php?ref=tn_tnmn#!/photo.php?fbid=511569932221294&set=a.511569925554628.127094.175835182461439&type=1&theater

Click on the pic and it will run you through a series of pics.

http://www.terraalpsracing.com/sites/default/files/imagecache/product/thermostat_001.jpg

Race
03-23-2013, 02:17 PM
I like the idea of more flow with the Tara Alps, but only with only 7.35 Liters a minute difference between TA's and BRP's stat (33.4L TA vs 26.05L BRP per min.) and with the TA's FaceBook pics showing both the TA's and BRP's stats opening at 120* (at 110* BRP's starts to open and Terra Alps almost fully open) when do you start applying the cost benefit into the equation? With GoHiSK1 experience with the BRP setup (that it worked for him), I think that the BRP stat is the more economical way to go, I also like the clean install TRS did, especially the look of those gates hose shrink clamps.

Went back and reread all the recent posts and did see that DITCH1000 did post running temps before and after the BRP mod.
I have witnessed the exact same readings on my 2013 PRO after the BRP Mod.
The following information is from back to back running conditions within about 2 hrs. and the same air temps. and the same snow conditions.
With Stock Polaris set up engine temps running in 6-8 inches of fresh snow are between 125 and 137+ F.
With the BRP setup the temps are showing 105 to 109 and holding steady.
Very little fluctuation even after repeated short full throttle runs.
I can verify what TRS and GEO have said about cool engine coolant temps and improved engine performance.
My sled is a totally different animal. Can now hang skies even with the 174x3" track . Not like a short track Ski Doo but have never experienced this on my Polaris Pro before.

mountainhorse
03-23-2013, 02:24 PM
I agree... For this mod... The Stock Doo part is a lot of "bang for the buck" in comparison.


.

96sherm
03-23-2013, 03:45 PM
Has anyone checked to see what the flow rate difference is between the stock Polaris system and the BRP mod system?

TRS
03-23-2013, 04:39 PM
Nice piece from Terra Alps. I like it, may have to try one. I like what the BRP thermostat housing accomplished:face-icon-small-hap:face-icon-small-hap:face-icon-small-hap and it should drop right in.

TRS
03-23-2013, 04:45 PM
Has anyone checked to see what the flow rate difference is between the stock Polaris system and the BRP mod system?

Just looked at Terra Alps website. TA claims stock Polaris at 11.3L per minute and BRP at 26.05L per minute

tinkerjohnson
03-23-2013, 09:35 PM
Did this mod and tried it out today and my temps were 105 to 111 worked well on keeping the temps down and engine would get back up to temp really fast I liked the temp control this mod made but I saw no power or runability issues I have been chasing change doing this mod my rpm is still all over the place. Made no difference on that but still like what it did for my temp

Rick!
03-24-2013, 07:55 AM
Just looked at Terra Alps website. TA claims stock Polaris at 11.3L per minute and BRP at 26.05L per minute

A guy needs to be careful on flow numbers for sleds. A while ago, one sled company advertised a 100 liter/min water pump on their new 800. That is around 26+ gpm which from 10 feet away sounds about right for just a pump. I think another sled maker targets 20 some gpm for the whole system (coolers, fittings, tees, everything). 140+hp engines aren't very happy at WOT with less flow. So, numbers on the interweb, by definition, could be true but more info is needed. Stat closed, open, fully open, how many holes in the parts, cooling system connected, type of flowmeter, are all things that affect flow numbers, just sayin'...

mountainhorse
03-24-2013, 12:02 PM
Rick! makes some good points.

Especially the flow meter.... dumping/timing/measuring are not very accurate... not to the decimal point for sure.

The Polaris t stat is pretty small though



.

mountainhorse
03-24-2013, 12:06 PM
MH,

Good catch. I tried the Evans coolant in the stock configuration with/without a thermostat. It doesn't work in the Pro. In winter temps the Evans gets to thick in our tunnel coolers and will not pump. I had many discussions with John Light at Evans about this. Their engineers are looking for a fix. It may work with the e-tec housing.


TRS..

Which Evans coolant were you using and what kind of low temps are you considering?

When did you talk with John?

I've had good luck with it, and researched it well...

BUT, My respect for your posts has me concerned with this.

MH.




.

gunnerthesnowman
03-24-2013, 12:26 PM
TRS..

Which Evans coolant were you using and what kind of low temps are you considering?

When did you talk with John?

I've had good luck with it, and researched it well...

BUT, My respect for your posts has me concerned with this.

MH.




.


I have been using this in my turbo apex for 4 years now with no problems ,it cools much better , does not expand and overflow and cools off much faster.

TRS
03-24-2013, 12:27 PM
Just looked at Terra Alps website. TA claims stock Polaris at 11.3L per minute and BRP at 26.05L per minute

That is why I stated TA claims.
Sometimes to much flow doesn't cool well. Not enough dwell time.
The Polaris water pump output would be important in the Terra Alps comparison.

TRS
03-24-2013, 01:31 PM
TRS..

Which Evans coolant were you using and what kind of low temps are you considering?

When did you talk with John?

I've had good luck with it, and researched it well...

BUT, My respect for your posts has me concerned with this.

MH. .

MH,
Evans recommended the NPG+ C new formula(yellow). It has the lowest temp pour point. The outside temps at the time were 10F to -20F. John and I had many discussions in February about the issues I was having with the coolant. I don't know if it is the Polaris pump, pump speed, or the viscosity of the fluid that causes the problem. I dealt with it for four days. Honestly, I wanted the Evans to work. To test the system I drained the Evans, against John's wishes, and filled with standard anti-freeze. The problem was solved.
It would air entrain at RPM over 6000. I thought the stock thermostat may be causing the problem, with it not having a viable bypass system. I removed the thermostat, didn't help. I also tried it as a non-pressurized system. I won't post my conversations with John on the forum. If you would like to know PM me.
Tony

96sherm
03-24-2013, 08:53 PM
Well, I need to compliment this modification. It didn't solve all my problems, but it definitely took care of one major one. 40-ish miles this afternoon, -4C, heavy snow/trail riding and I let it work a lot. Temps never climbed past 120, where it would have hit 150 before...

TRS
03-28-2013, 12:08 PM
BRP
1- 509000499 Thermo housing with internal thermostat
1- 509000372 3/4 x 1 barbed tee
Napa
4- power grip 42934
2- power grip 42925
1- 5/8 bypass cap 660-1696 1-8205 hose
1-7378 hose
Polaris
1- CT clamp 7080533
Washer for thermostat replacement 34mm OD, 27mm ID, 1mm thick

You can switch out the Polaris clamp with a shrink from NAPA for the bypass cap, part # 42922.

96sherm
03-28-2013, 09:03 PM
I used a zip tie for the bypass cap :D Definitely uncouth, but it'll work.

wfieldin
03-31-2013, 09:06 PM
Anyone have experience with Tara Alp Stat, what I need is something that will help keep temps down when trail riding with the family. The BRP setup is great for lower temps in powder, but I do have to keep the wife company on the trails.....happy wife...you know the rest! Don't like to see the high 190 degree temps on the slow trail rides, using scrathers and rear flap is in good shape.

diamonddave
03-31-2013, 09:55 PM
TRS have you installed the set-up in a turbo application yet?

beamslayer
04-01-2013, 09:11 AM
I don't believe anything will bring down trail temps other than more cooler area .

Rick!
04-01-2013, 12:25 PM
I don't believe anything will bring down trail temps other than more cooler area .

A longer rear flap, scratchers, a throttle blip to spin the track every minute or so will all help. Sleds don't cool at 15mph,especially RMKs. Riding with newbies last year showed that under 21mph was steady rise in temp, 26mph was steady 125-130, faster was a non issue. Spring conditions for sure aggravate things - I used to hate waiting until 10:30am to go riding in the spring, my WA friends have converted me so I have way more time to do mods before riding...

Little Eddy
04-01-2013, 04:25 PM
I was having the same issues with slow speed traveling .... installed extra set of scratchers and long tail flap (a real pain in reverse) .... trail ride up to Boulder cabin in Revy this combo ran about 150 to 165 at wife and kid speed ... next morning I installed the Terra alps kit (kit comes complete and could be done trailside if you could catch the antifreeze) .... sled ran between 98 and 125 degrees on same trail at same speed and around 98 anytime there was good snow. It will not completely solve the overheating in poor conditions as the sled simply does not have enough cooler surface area but where the previous day I had temps as high as 195 without the kit installed the highest I saw with it was about 165 .... kit is a little pricey but a nice piece and no having to look for parts and has very good instructions

ditch1000
04-01-2013, 07:24 PM
I don't believe anything will bring down trail temps other than more cooler area .

I ran an ice trail with next to no fresh snow for 30 km on Friday. 1st 10 km sled ran @ 152 degrees with the scratchers down. Had a beer, bent the scratchers down and next 20 km, I did not go over 125!!! I guess the beer helped!!:face-icon-small-ton

wfieldin
04-01-2013, 07:45 PM
I'm going to start a thread on this by itself.thanks for all the responses, may have to change from brandy to beer.

800poodragon
04-02-2013, 10:37 PM
You can switch out the Polaris clamp with a shrink from NAPA for the bypass cap, part # 42922.

Do you think it is necessary to put the plug in under the bypass cap?

ditch1000
04-03-2013, 06:49 AM
Do you think it is necessary to put the plug in under the bypass cap?

No. I just put the cap on and put a gates powerclamp on it (was only a regular hose clamp first) and it does not leak.

200smk
04-03-2013, 08:43 AM
I put this bypass mod on my 12 800 last week......did a good 3 day ride in deep set-up snow (on the flatlands). Temp ran in the 105-109 range when in the good snow....still climbed up as normal on the trails until the scratchers went down.....then back to 107. Our outside temps were -5 to +3 celcius.

Great Mod, easy to do, would do it again in a heartbeat. Big Thanks TRS!

TARI
04-06-2013, 10:56 AM
TSR
The skidoo thermostat will open sooner then the polaris stat but does not shut off the bypass circuit til 155'f.
So you have not completely fixed the problem, the skidoo stat will flow more coolant then the poalris.
This kit fixes the issues for high hp turbos and hard snow conditions keeping temps downs and HP up!
http://www.terraalpsracing.com/product/polaris-cfi-800-2008-2013-performance-kits

LoudHandle
04-06-2013, 11:11 AM
TSR
The skidoo thermostat will open sooner then the polaris stat but does not shut off the bypass circuit til 155'f.
So you have not completely fixed the problem, the skidoo stat will flow more coolant then the poalris.
This kit fixes the issues for high hp turbos and hard snow conditions keeping temps downs and HP up!
http://www.terraalpsracing.com/product/polaris-cfi-800-2008-2013-performance-kits

Anybody know what temp the older Polaris 600 bypass thermostat opens at? And if it is the same dimensions as the Skidoo one?

Guessing the TA housing uses the large Storm bypass thermostat but I do not know that for fact. I do still have a couple of those floating around though.

Anybody have the dirt? Not sure why skidoo would want the thermostat to start opening at 115-120 and leave the bypass open until 155? That makes zero sense to me. It is early though here, one coffee into the day. May be smarter by noon? : )

mountainhorse
04-06-2013, 12:41 PM
LH... These are the TA thermostats if that helps. He doesn't show the stock PRO RMK thermo though.

http://sphotos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/394923_511569932221294_1760096757_n.jpg

http://sphotos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/205626_511570488887905_655130741_n.jpg





.

mountainhorse
04-06-2013, 12:48 PM
The bypass disk is connected directly to the thermostat plunger.

Usually the bypass closes soon after the Thermo "cracks open"...having served its purpose....and the separate spring on the bypass disk allows the thermo plunger to move even after the bypass disk is resting against the housing.

The Ski Doo Bypass plunger does not seem to have this secondary spring in the photos above... maybe uses some diff mechanism to move the bypass disk??

I'm confused here as well.




.

LoudHandle
04-06-2013, 12:55 PM
The bypass disk is connected directly to the thermostat plunger.

Usually the bypass closes soon after the Thermo "cracks open" and the separate spring on the bypass allows the thermo plunger to move even after the bypass disk is resting against the housing.

I'm confused here as well.




.


At least on every bypass thermostat I've had my hands on in the last 30 years but all of them have been from Polaris sleds. Skidoo may well have a different design, but it makes no sense to me to allow it to short circuit the cooler for 35-40 degrees. Not saying he's wrong, just want to learn and discover their rational if it is indeed as he states. Thanks!

TARI
04-06-2013, 12:59 PM
There is pics on the Terra Alps facebook page showing the stock polaris stat,
The bypass valve or disk as you called it doesn't close til 155'f on the skidoo thermostat
The bypass is fully closed at 120'f on the Terra Alps stat kit flowing 300% more coolant then the stock polaris stat.

This so called $28 fix will cost more then 28 dollars for the avg joe and still does not fix the problem. but to each there own.

Rick!
04-06-2013, 01:10 PM
Why would a stat that opens at 99F not be done opening by 125-130F? A little pan of water and a thermometer would test the shut- off dealy. I'm thinking the cheap polypropylene housing has something to do with it. TRS has already found external heat affecting it, internal heat may have something to do with advertised numbers, and, of course, early model housings as Doo was finishing validation (during second year production?)

LoudHandle
04-06-2013, 01:26 PM
There is pics on the Terra Alps facebook page showing the stock polaris stat,
The bypass valve or disk as you called it doesn't close til 155'f on the skidoo thermostat
The bypass is fully closed at 120'f on the Terra Alps stat kit flowing 300% more coolant then the stock polaris stat.

This so called $28 fix will cost more then 28 dollars for the avg joe and still does not fix the problem. but to each there own.

Okay, I'm assuming your user name is an acronym for Terra Alps Racing, and I have the proprietor of the billet housing and other useful information. With that assumption; will your thermostat fit in the skidoo plastic housing? Or is it larger like the mid nintey's Polaris thermostats? I have no issue with your thermostat or billet housing. I was hoping to cut some weight and gain effecentcy at the same time. Like I posted earlier I still have the large bulky cast aluminum storm style bypass thermostat housings kicking around and don't see spending ~$300 to get essentially the same thing.

Also IMO; looking to social media for technical information is counter intuitive and some of us old farts refuse to endorse FB because we see zero benefit from it, but that is just my spin and don't want this to take a wrong turn on my account. I can have the wife find me your FB if that is where I need to look. I just don't see most guys doing that.

mountainhorse
04-06-2013, 01:45 PM
LH..the Doo plastic housing is molded over the T-stat... not removable.

http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=203235&d=1363121673

mountainhorse
04-06-2013, 02:03 PM
http://sphotos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/733967_540084462703174_1309756340_n.jpg....

LoudHandle
04-06-2013, 02:13 PM
LH..the Doo plastic housing is molded over the T-stat... not removable.

http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=203235&d=1363121673

Bad assumption on my part.

I'll head another direction, thanks to all for their input.

mountainhorse
04-06-2013, 02:20 PM
The storm t stat lower housing is no longer avail.

It looks cool... I wonder what the thermostat itself looks like inside.

http://i.ebayimg.com/t/NOS-1993-98-600-700-XCR-STORM-EURO-STORM-SPX-SE-THERMOSTAT-HOUSING-5130943-/00/s/NjgyWDEwMjQ=/$(KGrHqV,!lEE5z7L7GPMBOpZ0EQy-w~~60_12.JPG



http://i1121.photobucket.com/albums/l503/myjunkisyourjewels/ebay/51309432.jpg

http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=205567&stc=1&d=1365280044

LoudHandle
04-06-2013, 02:31 PM
The storm t stat lower housing is no longer avail.

It looks cool... I wonder what the thermostat itself looks like inside.



http://i1121.photobucket.com/albums/l503/myjunkisyourjewels/ebay/51309432.jpg

http://i.ebayimg.com/t/1994-Polaris-Indy-Storm-800-SKS-thermostat-assembly-housing-hoses-/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/$(KGrHqZ,!ioFCj1nzu(wBQp+!5kbVg~~60_57.JPG

I'll dig one out and email you a pic to post. Exactly the same as the current bypass thermostats just much larger ( like the physical size of the ones in the muscle car V8's). I've machined and welded custom aluminum housings for them over the years for my mods. Actually put it upside down inset into the "U" cooler. To clean up the engine compartment in my triple cylinder EDGE chassis.

TRS
04-06-2013, 10:18 PM
93 storm housing. When I disassembled I found the thermo had separated.
The 2003 XCR housing should work. The thermo from 96-03 was a 120* stat. part#7051017. The top housing fits from 93-03 part#5130942. The bottom housing changed for MY1999. 99-03 bottom housing part#5132025.

800poodragon
04-06-2013, 10:37 PM
BRP did have some problems with their early thermo housing and bypass. New moldings have fixed the problem. As relayed to me from a rep.
I understand it cost more than $28. Retail for the housing is $28, that is why I posted a $28 upgrade.
Here is my cost for the parts. I just went through my invoices.
BRP T-stat $18.63
BRP Tee 4.12
7378 Hose 4.56
8205 Hose 9.19
42925 Clamp 1.97 ea.
42934 Clamp 3.11 ea.
660-1696 Cap 3.21 for 2
I don't have a price on the smaller powergrip clamp.
Is this not a cheap fix?

Just finished mine last night...have to wait till next weekend to try it....I would consider it a cheap fix:cool:....thanks TRS

mountainhorse
04-07-2013, 12:31 AM
93 storm housing. When I disassembled I found the thermo had separated.
The 2003 XCR housing should work. The thermo from 96-03 was a 120* stat. part#7051017. The top housing fits from 93-03 part#5130942. The bottom housing changed for MY1999. 99-03 bottom housing part#5132025.


I think that the lower housing and the thermostat have been discontinued/NLA???


.

TRS
04-07-2013, 05:33 AM
Babbitt's offers the bottom half at $81.83 and the top half at $37.71 but the thermostat is NLA.
Polaris 2012 800 thermostat 7052452 offered on line for $30.33.
BRP housing is inexpensive in comparison. Hope the price doesn't go up.

TRS
04-08-2013, 08:12 AM
Found the one from my 2001 XCR. Good place for the temp sensor. I may slide this one in place.:focus:

mountainhorse
04-08-2013, 10:45 AM
TRS... What would be the reason for removing the sensor from the head?...

By the time it gets out to the thermo...will it give you accurate readings of engine temp?



.

TRS
04-08-2013, 11:36 AM
TRS... What would be the reason for removing the sensor from the head?...

By the time it gets out to the thermo...will it give you accurate readings of engine temp?



.

I think it would give a more consistent water temp. It would be interesting to see if there would be a difference in tip in temps. With it divorced from the head.
Wondering with it mounted higher if it would thermosiphon better than the BRP when not running. The natural convection here would be a big plus.

sledneck_03
04-19-2013, 01:21 PM
Ttt

ditch1000
04-21-2013, 10:25 AM
Just noticed on my sled that the little 1/4" hose (or whatever size it is) coming off the bottom of the coolant bottle is rubbing on the rib on the thermostat housing and has started rubbing though the hose. I just bought some wire loom and am gonna put on it to protect the hose... Just check yours to make sure your guys is not rubbing also and protect it is needed. Otherwise, best thread I've ever seen on Snowest and big hats off to TRS for solving a big problem for cheap!!

TRS
04-24-2013, 10:24 PM
TRS have you installed the set-up in a turbo application yet?

One next week, will give update.

TRS
04-25-2013, 04:02 PM
Post #138 for parts list

sledneck_03
04-26-2013, 09:34 PM
I put this bypass mod on my 12 800 last week......did a good 3 day ride in deep set-up snow (on the flatlands). Temp ran in the 105-109 range when in the good snow....still climbed up as normal on the trails until the scratchers went down.....then back to 107. Our outside temps were -5 to +3 celcius.

Great Mod, easy to do, would do it again in a heartbeat. Big Thanks TRS!

did you see that your sled holds rpms better?

200smk
04-29-2013, 10:08 AM
Didn't really notice rpm losses before......but the peace of mind to not have to keep the temp reading on the display all the time is huge......I don't even look at my temps anymore....unless I'm on a hardpack trail.

TRS
05-19-2013, 10:16 PM
May 19, 2013:
Rode the turbo in what felt like mashed potatoes all day. 4' trenches. Water temps were basically 114-117. Although, I did see 121.

GoHiSK1
05-19-2013, 10:55 PM
I have always found that the Mashed Potato snow (I have been told its called iceothermic snow ) did keep sled engine temps low as it is almost like water skipping so lots of cooling effect even with the warm air temps.


I am envious that you are riding and I am planting my crop :face-icon-small-hap

TRS
05-20-2013, 07:23 AM
I have always found that the Mashed Potato snow (I have been told its called iceothermic snow ) did keep sled engine temps low as it is almost like water skipping so lots of cooling effect even with the warm air temps.


I am envious that you are riding and I am planting my crop :face-icon-small-hap

"Isothermal Snow" sure pulls hard. A lot of WOT on the turbo yesterday. Good day to test.
Not long before the days start to get shorter.
Thanks for planting and feeding the world.

gmustangt
05-27-2013, 11:18 AM
Sorry if i missed it but are you just gutting the stock thermo and throwing the cover back on the head?

2Quickrides
08-13-2013, 11:14 AM
Is this an issue with a stock motor as well or just the more modded ones? I have a 2014 Pro on the way and curious if this would be beneficial to do. Pipe and head will be the most mods this thing sees for awhile.

TRS
08-13-2013, 09:22 PM
Is this an issue with a stock motor as well or just the more modded ones? I have a 2014 Pro on the way and curious if this would be beneficial to do. Pipe and head will be the most mods this thing sees for awhile.

Yes, stock motor as well.

T G
09-15-2013, 09:43 PM
here you go dave

jdetoy
10-06-2013, 11:17 AM
I have had problem with cooling and I performance on 11 with the 11 silber turbo. I made this cooler for the rear and I am also planing on doing the up grade. Do you think it may run to cool now?http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/07/u3ehuge4.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/07/dy9amubu.jpg

LoudHandle
10-06-2013, 11:40 AM
I have had problem with cooling and I performance on 11 with the 11 silber turbo. I made this cooler for the rear and I am also planing on doing the up grade. Do you think it may run to cool now?http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/07/u3ehuge4.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/07/dy9amubu.jpg

No, the thermostat will regulate it as intended. Having a good supply of coolant available is a good thing.

ottawaair
11-03-2013, 02:53 PM
Bringing this thread back.

I'm trying to do this on a '12 switchback (rush chassis), but i don't think it's the same as the regular tunnel sleds.

It has a rear cooler stock, so looking at the pic on page one, the rear hose by the jackshaft is different on mine.

I know you guys are long trackers, but has anybody done this to a rush chassis sled.

Which hose am i looking for ???

Daltech
11-04-2013, 12:35 AM
Is there anyone that can help out a fellow from overseas to get all the parts from napa for me. I have not found any way to order online from napa that include shipping.
The doo parts I will get myself.
If anyone can/are willing to help, PM me.

Norway
11-04-2013, 03:32 AM
Is there anyone that can help out a fellow from overseas to get all the parts from napa for me. I have not found any way to order online from napa that include shipping.
The doo parts I will get myself.
If anyone can/are willing to help, PM me.

Yo,

Talked to TRS on the very same thing, let's do something together. I have a US address for ordering stuff that is only shipped in the US and not international.

Maybe I can fix that NAPA thing?

Rune

ottawaair
11-04-2013, 07:17 AM
I have all the parts, including the doo parts.

It doesnt look like i can do this mod on my sled, so i may be willing to sell as a package.

I'll look at my reciepts. Not looking to make money, but if i can't use it, then no sense in keeping it.

mountainhorse
11-04-2013, 10:39 AM
Norway/Daltech... I'll help you out... send me a PM.


.

Norway
11-04-2013, 11:09 AM
Norway/Daltech... I'll help you out... send me a PM.


.

I have all the parts, including the doo parts.

It doesnt look like i can do this mod on my sled, so i may be willing to sell as a package.

I'll look at my reciepts. Not looking to make money, but if i can't use it, then no sense in keeping it.

Aaaaaw! You guys are just the sweetest, arent you?

j/k

Daltech is pretty much hooked up with Loudhandle for 4 kits, asking as we speak if it's ok to make that 5. And i just pm'd ottawaair asking some details about his parts. And now Eric joins the frey here just to be sure.

We'll both be squared away in no time, thanks to our brothers in arms here on SW.:hail:

Unless something is amiss I'll help ottawaair get rid of his excess first.

Thanks all!

Jeff K
11-04-2013, 11:30 AM
Is anybody making the Thermostat delete washers? I really don't want to butcher my thermostat.

LoudHandle
11-04-2013, 02:09 PM
Is anybody making the Thermostat delete washers? I really don't want to butcher my thermostat.

I believe both TRS and I have made them, I ask $10 apiece to cover my time materials and priority postage. PM me if you are interested.

Daltech
11-04-2013, 03:51 PM
Loudhandle did get me set up with 5 kits as needed. Big thanks to him doing this, and to all you other guys that offered your help. It is much appreciated.

Aaaaaw! You guys are just the sweetest, arent you?

j/k

Daltech is pretty much hooked up with Loudhandle for 4 kits, asking as we speak if it's ok to make that 5. And i just pm'd ottawaair asking some details about his parts. And now Eric joins the frey here just to be sure.

We'll both be squared away in no time, thanks to our brothers in arms here on SW.:hail:

Unless something is amiss I'll help ottawaair get rid of his excess first.

Thanks all!



Daltech

Norway
11-04-2013, 04:37 PM
Loudhandle did get me set up with 5 kits as needed. Big thanks to him doing this, and to all you other guys that offered your help. It is much appreciated.





Daltech

And now a swede pm'd me and asked to join, so I'll try and get 2 kits. Both the 5th from LH through Daltech and help ottawaair get rid of his parts.

RS

ottawaair
11-04-2013, 10:16 PM
I looked again tonite. Don't think this works on my chassis. Cooling system is different due to front radiator I guess.

I'll pm Norway tomorrow with a price.

Norway
11-21-2013, 02:10 PM
I looked again tonite. Don't think this works on my chassis. Cooling system is different due to front radiator I guess.

I'll pm Norway tomorrow with a price.

Just a small update; ottawaair is now one $28 kit poorer, to the benefit of Scandinavia. Will be re-directed from me to the guy in Sweden so he can get his machine up to par.

I will be using the kit from Daltech and all will be happy! :face-icon-small-coo

Now... LET IT SNOW!!!!

GoHiSK1
11-21-2013, 04:45 PM
Just did an install on my Flat land Assault 144 with a front heat exchanger.
Did the install the same way I did the Pro RMK.
Engine Temp. went from 129-133 to 111-113 degrees
Not sure of any performance increases yet but still doing engine break-in .
Just Happy the engine now runs a little cooler :]

JustinB
11-26-2013, 04:10 PM
Can anyone tell me if I can do this to my 08 700 I have the shut down issue and have had to replace the top end 2 times now. Lucky I check my compression every year. Going to add this to the pro.

kt19
12-08-2013, 08:58 AM
What were the results on the 600 sled. I assume the same but thought I'd ask. Also anyone done this and had issues with warranty at the dealer. I have a 6 and an 8 that I'm considering doing this to as long as it will not null and void the warranty.

Thanks

TRS
12-22-2013, 11:46 AM
MH,
Thanks, it's an easy install.
Eliminated the stock thermostat.
Good catch. I tried the Evans coolant in the stock configuration with/without a thermostat. It doesn't work in the Pro. In winter temps the Evans gets to thick in our tunnel coolers and will not pump. I had many discussions with John Light at Evans about this. Their engineers are looking for a fix. It may work with the e-tec housing.
As far as temps go, I tried to replicate real world situations. I rode the sled hard and did start ups after 15-20-30 min and 1 hour shut down times. With both stock and e-tec systems.
Marginal snow conditions, yes, Cooke City to Pilot Creek(8.6mi) many times. From -10F to 23F. Scratchers down on basic ice trail and a max of 136F. It is a consistent 114-117 on the trail.

Here is the post on the Evans coolant

sledhead9825
01-19-2014, 02:06 PM
Thanks TRS great thread. I did the upgrade on my 13 Turbo Pro works great.

LoudHandle
01-23-2014, 02:09 AM
Thought I would repost the part numbers with the optional substitutions / updates.

BRP
1- #509000499 Thermo housing with internal thermostat
1- #509000372 3/4" x 1" barbed tee

Napa
4- #42934 Power Grip
2- #42925 Power Grip
1- #660-1696 5/8" bypass cap
1- #8205 1" formed hose
1- #7378 3/4" formed hose

Polaris
1- #7080533 CT clamp (Or 1- #42922 NAPA Power Grip)

Other Parts to machine or source
Washer for thermostat replacement 34mm OD, 27mm ID, 1mm thick

1/2" PEX test plugs have been found to fit well in the extra unused 5/8" bypass port in the BRP thermostat housing, for a double positive block. The following part numbers have been identified as options:
***Note only one plug is needed per kit***
Viega part number 43723 (Acetal material and negligible weight, 2 Grams, this plug seems to be the most commonly available in my expirence)

Zurn part number QXP3XP (Acetal material)
Zurn Part number QQP3GXPK1 (This one is brass, 10 Grams)
Zurn part number QQP3GX (This one is brass also)

Norway
01-23-2014, 10:55 AM
Just a small update; ottawaair is now one $28 kit poorer, to the benefit of Scandinavia. Will be re-directed from me to the guy in Sweden so he can get his machine up to par.

I will be using the kit from Daltech and all will be happy! :face-icon-small-coo

Now... LET IT SNOW!!!!

So, this did not turn out as I hoped...

Set out to make my own sled better and decided I could help ottawaair getting rid of his kit at the same time. Then Hellsledder pm's me and ask if I there is any chance I can grab one extra kit? "Sure, I'll just have Daltech up his number".

Done. Now I get (and pay for) 2 kits. No biggie, not that much cash to front for someone. BUT, Hellsledder never replied once I had the first kit here and ottawaairs kit had 1-3/4" powerclamps!!

To make things half right I sell the best kit with plug, shim and correct clamps to another guy in Norway and make the last kit work with normal hoseclamps and homemade plug + shim.

Once again I go out of my way to help fellow sledders, and for my efforts???? :frusty: IDIOT! Note to self: DON'T HELP PEOPLE!

Sorry, rant over.


BTW; LoudHandles kit is SOLLID, has all the (correct) things you need and a good price. Don't know price from Rogers Sportscentre, but I do know they have to charge a sales tax that most other states don't.

TRS
01-23-2014, 11:35 AM
Rogers Sport Center Kit is complete also. No outsourcing for parts needed.
307-587-6818

Norway
01-23-2014, 12:04 PM
Rogers Sport Center Kit is complete also. No outsourcing for parts needed.
307-587-6818

Hey buddy! Sorry if I came on like it was not!!

They were good to deal with, no problems anywhere and my parts came in a timely manner at quoted price. I would deal with them again on that basis.

To others:
I have not bought a kit from them, but other parts not related to this kit. Got a real good response from TRS here on another matter, instantly liked the man and he shared freely his experience and advice. He sent me to Rogers and the good wibes kind of just followed. They did nothing to change my impression and seems like real good folks.

There, feels better to leave of in this tune!

TRS
05-20-2014, 08:58 PM
Had a Snowest brother ask for more photos of the turbo install.