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View Full Version : EVOLUTION POWERSPORTS & MPI introduce Yamaha Nytro ECU Reprogramming


Evolution Powersports
01-27-2013, 08:16 PM
Evolution Powersports in conjunction with our technology partner, Mountain Performance Inc. (MPI) are proud to announce the development of a broad range of ECU Programs for the Yamaha Nytro. Our strategic development group has spent the last 2 years perfecting a variety of different OEM ECU software calibrations that are ready to be unleashed on the Yamaha community.

For sale now:

MPI/EVO Safety Flash: In this software recalibration, the way the ecu reads the water temperature sensor is rescaled so that engine protection maps are engaged 20 deg F sooner than stock (stock 212F, now 190F). This will also turn on the temp light on the dash sooner. The stock parameters are not sensitive enough to protect the engine while under boost. If the temp light comes on while on boost, it is likely that the engine will be damaged before you can react to protect it. Our software flash will alert the rider and begin to protect the engine by reducing timing to help safeguard against engine damage due to temperature induced detonation caused by high water temperatures. This flash works on ANY Normally Aspirated, Turbo or Supercharged Nytro as long as it utilizes the stock ECU. $299

MPI/EVO Reduced Timing Flash: In this software recalibration, we remap the timing tables to curve them for a boosted application. We gradually remove ignition timing as rpm increases to eliminate any engine detonation. Depending on the application, the reduction of ignition timing can lower the fuel octane requirements, allow the engine to safely run higher boost and even eliminate the need to run a head shim. A good rule of thumb is that this calibration allows for 2 to 3 more PSI of boost without further engine modification or fuel octane increase. This flash works on ANY Turbo or Supercharged Nytro as long as it utilizes the stock ECU. $299

MPI/EVO Safety Flash with reduced timing: In this software recalibration, the safety flash and reduced timing flash are combined to offer the ultimate performance and engine safety package. This flash works on ANY Normally Aspirated, Turbo or Supercharged Nytro as long as it utilizes the stock ECU.$399

MPI/EVO 2008-2011 Nytro hand warmer fix: The reason the hand warmers do not work adequately on older Nytro’s has nothing to do with the warmers themselves – the problem resides in the ECU programming and how the hand warmers function. We recalibrate the way the ECU handles the power output to the hand warmers which makes them function more effectively like the newer 2012+ models.This flash works on ANY 2008-2011 Nytro $99.00 or $79.00 with any other flash

MPI/EVO 550cc Injector Flash: This software recalibration allows the replacement of the OEM 330cc injectors with 550cc injectors. The 550’s will operate the sled IDENTICALLY to the 330’s, but will have the capability to flow 40% more fuel. Property scaled larger fuel injectors are the only way to increase fuel delivery and have an OEM like performing engine – without hesitations, stumbles, etc. There is no need to control extra injectors which complicate any turbo or supercharger installation. We have also increased the idle RPM by 150. This software flash is sold only with our high quality Bosch 550cc injectors which includes the direct replacement kit for the OEM 330cc units. This flash is for Big HP Turbo or Supercharged Nytros running an auxiliary injector or fuel system. $799 with three 550cc direct replacement injectors.

Add the Safety or Reduced timing flash for $99, or both for $199.


For more information, please contact:

EVOLUTION POWERSPORTS
30960 HUMMINGBIRD LANE
STEAMBOAT SPRINGS, CO 80487
970-680-EVO1 (3861)
INFO@EVOPOWERSPORTS.COM

OR

MOUNTAIN PERFORMANCE (MPI)
12379 So. 265 W, Unit B
Draper, UTAH 84020
(888) 649-4609

BOOSTD
01-27-2013, 10:42 PM
So you want the public to pay $300 for their water temp light to come earlier? A water temp gauge is half that with pipe adapter. Then have the already crap factory grips get warm for $100 when a set of RSI is $40 and twice the heat.

I guess its cool and im sure you will get some suckers but thats spendy. For $200 bucks i can fix both those problems too and not have to send off my ECU. My .02

BOOSTD
01-27-2013, 10:50 PM
Ok I see you updated your original post with more info and more options. One says wth the increase of boost pressure it will pull timing, how is the stock ecu recognizing a pressure change? Just trying to figure out what you are supplying.

christopher
01-27-2013, 11:11 PM
Evolution Powersports in conjunction with our technology partner, Mountain Performance Inc. (MPI) are proud to announce the development of a broad range of ECU Programs for the Yamaha Nytro.

Glad to see this out in public now!
Been a LONG wait to see you guys release the first round of goodies.

Ridin Ak
01-27-2013, 11:18 PM
Nice product

Christopher spell check your signature... Run a forum and can't spell modded..

icr
01-28-2013, 12:14 AM
Nice product

Christopher spell check your signature... Run a forum and can't spell modded..

His sled runs in a higher past tense mode than yours, don't be jealous.

BOOSTD
01-28-2013, 01:04 AM
Thanks for the bad rep christopher, again you never surprise me with your blinders.

I guess I'm asking for more details, a lot of information but no specifics leaves me scratching my head. I was simply stating the obvious fixes from their original post before it was updated with more info.

Some of the offerings sound cool but just curious how it works. I know the stock ecu has no map sensor and the factory sensors only read to 0 atmosphere so I'm curious to how it all works. For all I know I could be wrong and the stock map sensors do read positive atmosphere, I just want to know how this works. I know they are smart guys and jump in and explain.
Im hoping its not just another "fuel bridge" which turns out to be just another piggyback fuel system although advertised as something else.

Evolution Powersports
01-28-2013, 04:13 AM
So you want the public to pay $300 for their water temp light to come earlier? A water temp gauge is half that with pipe adapter. Then have the already crap factory grips get warm for $100 when a set of RSI is $40 and twice the heat.

I guess its cool and im sure you will get some suckers but thats spendy. For $200 bucks i can fix both those problems too and not have to send off my ECU. My .02

The safety flash re-curves the way the ECU handles water temperature. Yes you can put a water temperature gauge on for $40.00. A temperature gauge cannot engage the factory protection strategy. The factory ECU has timing protection maps built into it that are correlated to water temperature. The temperature at which the safety maps are engaged are borderline on being able to protect the engine even without boost. With boost, there is no margin. By engaging these maps, enhancing the protection & turning on the light 20 deg F sooner, there is a far greater safety margin.

The factory hand warmers are perfectly capable of keeping your hands warm. As stated the issue is how they are programmed to operate and the power output allowed to them.

Evolution Powersports
01-28-2013, 04:29 AM
Thanks for the bad rep christopher, again you never surprise me with your blinders.

I guess I'm asking for more details, a lot of information but no specifics leaves me scratching my head. I was simply stating the obvious fixes from their original post before it was updated with more info.

Some of the offerings sound cool but just curious how it works. I know the stock ecu has no map sensor and the factory sensors only read to 0 atmosphere so I'm curious to how it all works. For all I know I could be wrong and the stock map sensors do read positive atmosphere, I just want to know how this works. I know they are smart guys and jump in and explain.
Im hoping its not just another "fuel bridge" which turns out to be just another piggyback fuel system although advertised as something else.

The safety flash is not correlated to boost, it is correlated to water temperature.

The timing reduction flash is also not correlated to boost pressure, however, the timing is curved to be much friendlier to boosted applications. The Nytro was designed to be a high performance NA engine with a very aggressive timing curve.

TurboM700
01-28-2013, 05:33 AM
What is the factory ECU using for a MAP sensor on boosted sleds? Or do you have to tie one into the ECU?

How well does this handle change in Alt. and boost? I ride both here in MN (sea level) and out west (unload at 8k ride to 10k).

The reason I have stuck with the Attiude box is although it has it has its weak points I can still adjust fuel if need be.

Also the 799 for the larger injectors and tune does that include the timing flash handle bar warmers and coolant temp reduction?

What can 550cc support boost/hp wise?

Mike

tjc
01-28-2013, 09:45 AM
MPI/EVO 550cc Injector Flash: This software recalibration allows the replacement of the OEM 330cc injectors with 550cc injectors. The 550’s will operate the sled IDENTICALLY to the 330’s, but will have the capability to flow 40% more fuel. Property scaled larger fuel injectors are the only way to increase fuel delivery and have an OEM like performing engine – without hesitations, stumbles, etc. There is no need to control extra injectors which complicate any turbo or supercharger installation. We have also increased the idle RPM by 150. This software flash is sold only with our high quality Bosch 550cc injectors which includes the direct replacement kit for the OEM 330cc units. This flash is for Big HP Turbo or Supercharged Nytros running an auxiliary injector or fuel system. $799 with three 550cc direct replacement injectors.


My understanding is that the fuel pump is maxed out limiting the boost on a stock system not the injectors. So would this upgrade also require a new pump and regulator on the Nytro?

double a ron
01-28-2013, 10:06 AM
If only MPI would work on the reflash to fix this issue.....

4. Sled stumbles or dies at mid throttle position changes.
Applies to: 2008-2010 Nytro
Symptoms – Sled stumbles or dies as the throttle position is increased from a mid-throttle position to a
slightly higher position (but not all the way to full throttle) -OR- The throttle position is quickly decreased
from a full or nearly full throttle position to a mid throttle position.
Cause – GEMS Module programming bug. The sled has a very slight window where this happens and was
missed during development and testing. The transition point to Red Mode from Green or Yellow modes is
too aggressive and the sled will temporally flood.
Cure – A correct program is under development. A software reprogram will be required and your
controller must be sent to MPI or taken to one or our Master Dealers. A new program has not been released
at the time of the TSB publication. Please attempt to slightly alter your throttle habits to “drive around” this
bug temporarily.

BOOSTD
01-28-2013, 10:56 AM
I see you have again changed the wording on your timing info, instead of a boost or vacuum sensor to a rpm measurement. This makes more sense to me now. I'm not trying to point out flaws or anything like that just trying to get all the details for others to make a educated decision.

So your changing timing curve across the board rather than adjusting it for boost pressure. Look forward to seeing how it works. Is this good enough for even sea level boosted motors as well?

Evolution Powersports
01-28-2013, 11:06 AM
I see you have again changed the wording on your timing info, instead of a boost or vacuum sensor to a rpm measurement. This makes more sense to me now. I'm not trying to point out flaws or anything like that just trying to get all the details for others to make a educated decision.

So your changing timing curve across the board rather than adjusting it for boost pressure. Look forward to seeing how it works. Is this good enough for even sea level boosted motors as well?


Yes, I changed the wording - it was confusing the way it was originally written. Sea level boosted motors will benefit as well.

Evolution Powersports
01-28-2013, 11:38 AM
What is the factory ECU using for a MAP sensor on boosted sleds? Or do you have to tie one into the ECU?

How well does this handle change in Alt. and boost? I ride both here in MN (sea level) and out west (unload at 8k ride to 10k).

The reason I have stuck with the Attiude box is although it has it has its weak points I can still adjust fuel if need be.

Also the 799 for the larger injectors and tune does that include the timing flash handle bar warmers and coolant temp reduction?

What can 550cc support boost/hp wise?

Mike

No map sensor is incorporated. The change in altitude or boost would still need to be handled by your piggyback. This tune gives proper control of larger injectors. Most of the difficulty in big hp turbo/super installations is controlling the fuel that is needed beyond what the stock injectors can provide. This program matches the fuel delivery of larger injectors to the stock ones, but can deliver more fuel on the top end.

They will flow enough for 350+ depending upon fuel pressure & boost.

$799 is for the injector flash and injectors only.

TurboM700
01-28-2013, 01:03 PM
No map sensor is incorporated. The change in altitude or boost would still need to be handled by your piggyback. This tune gives proper control of larger injectors. Most of the difficulty in big hp turbo/super installations is controlling the fuel that is needed beyond what the stock injectors can provide. This program matches the fuel delivery of larger injectors to the stock ones, but can deliver more fuel on the top end.

They will flow enough for 350+ depending upon fuel pressure & boost.

$799 is for the injector flash and injectors only.

Wow this seem really expensive for the need of another "box" of some sort to control under boost.

Evolution Powersports
01-28-2013, 04:48 PM
Wow this seem really expensive for the need of another "box" of some sort to control under boost.

Whatever piggy back box you are using currently will likely work. All boosted Nytro's require some kind of boost/altitude control because there is no capability in the ECU. This will give you the fuel you will need to make the fueling work seamlessly without running a 4th injector or auxiliary fuel system.

Sharp
01-28-2013, 05:33 PM
I'm pro MPI turbo's but recently I'm having second thoughts. Doesn't MCX 270 kit have a stand alone ECU? I also thought MPI had one aswell. Why would anyone pay 800.00 for this set up? I need more info please explain? And what's the total price for everything? I have over 18K of MPI products. Is there a discounted price for loyal customers? My wallet is getting robbed from our current president and I don't think I can pay full price for something like this.

greasemonkey3406
01-28-2013, 06:56 PM
If only MPI would work on the reflash to fix this issue.....

4. Sled stumbles or dies at mid throttle position changes.
Applies to: 2008-2010 Nytro
Symptoms – Sled stumbles or dies as the throttle position is increased from a mid-throttle position to a
slightly higher position (but not all the way to full throttle) -OR- The throttle position is quickly decreased
from a full or nearly full throttle position to a mid throttle position.
Cause – GEMS Module programming bug. The sled has a very slight window where this happens and was
missed during development and testing. The transition point to Red Mode from Green or Yellow modes is
too aggressive and the sled will temporally flood.
Cure – A correct program is under development. A software reprogram will be required and your
controller must be sent to MPI or taken to one or our Master Dealers. A new program has not been released
at the time of the TSB publication. Please attempt to slightly alter your throttle habits to “drive around” this
bug temporarily.

Where did you get this info? This is exactly what is happening to mine.

christopher
01-28-2013, 07:04 PM
Thanks for the bad rep christopher, again you never surprise me with your blinders. .
No blinders here.

"I guess its cool and im sure you will get some suckers...
For $200 bucks i can fix both those problems too and not have to send off my ECU. My .02"

Just amazed that the very first words out of your mouth would be to belittle them. I know how much time and effort they have put into this new project over the summer and fall. I expect it to be very well received as time goes by.

BOOSTD
01-28-2013, 08:37 PM
I also said that because they had only listed two modifications at that time which were lower temp light and hotter hand grips which isnt a very good deal for $400. They then edited their post, and I asked further questions to a then edited post again! So obvioously I had made some valid questions or concerns or the need of editing wouldnt be necessary. Do they have a cool product or idea, yes they do. I have seen what they can do for the cats and they are headed in the right direction but I was replying to what I thought wasnt a very good deal, im sorry I will play nice and keep my opinion to myself. And yes, I think you do have blinders when it comes to MPI and what they offer. And thanks for editing your signature.

pylon
01-28-2013, 10:47 PM
I would love to see this on a sled in Revelstoke . Try before you buy for me with fuel systems now . Heard " THIS IS THE TICKET " way too many times now . Rode a new cat with this though and was quite impressed compared to the boondocker box . Let us know when you have a test sled on the snow !

TBird
01-29-2013, 12:55 AM
I would love to see this on a sled in Revelstoke . Try before you buy for me with fuel systems now . Heard " THIS IS THE TICKET " way too many times now . Rode a new cat with this though and was quite impressed compared to the boondocker box . Let us know when you have a test sled on the snow !

In my opinion this is not comparable with what Evo offer to 1100T.
Yamaha ECU does not sense boost, so you still need an piggyback to get it to work, hence all problems with the piggyback still exist.

Evolution Powersports
01-29-2013, 07:32 AM
I also said that because they had only listed two modifications at that time which were lower temp light and hotter hand grips which isnt a very good deal for $400. They then edited their post, and I asked further questions to a then edited post again! So obvioously I had made some valid questions or concerns or the need of editing wouldnt be necessary. Do they have a cool product or idea, yes they do. I have seen what they can do for the cats and they are headed in the right direction but I was replying to what I thought wasnt a very good deal, im sorry I will play nice and keep my opinion to myself. And yes, I think you do have blinders when it comes to MPI and what they offer. And thanks for editing your signature.

I edited the posts because when I saw your questions it was obvious that I was not clear with respect to what the flashes do and how they work.

Regarding the safety flash - I will explain it backwards. The timing protection maps are engaged a lower temperature which turns the water temp light on. The reason this flash came to be is we burned up a Nytro in marginal snow conditions by being on boost when the temp light came on. The factory programmers did not anticipate the proliferation of forced induction kits that would be applied to their engines or did not recognize that this margin of safety would be reduced to near zero with additional power. Ironically the Arctic Cat 1100T is the same way - the motor can only be killed by water temperatures - again because there is no margin. The cost to rebuild a Nytro motor that has failed this way is easily over $1500. If you don't think this is worth the peace of mind knowing that will now have some margin in case you run into low snow conditions or punch a hole in a heat exchanger, then good luck. With respect to $100.00 (or $79 with another flash) to fix your very good and perfectly capable handwarmers - once again, good luck. I spent about $400.00 to fix my apex handwarmers after buying a used set of handlebars and buying the electronic fix offered by someone on TY 5 years ago.

Evolution Powersports
01-29-2013, 08:10 AM
I'm pro MPI turbo's but recently I'm having second thoughts. Doesn't MCX 270 kit have a stand alone ECU? I also thought MPI had one aswell. Why would anyone pay 800.00 for this set up? I need more info please explain? And what's the total price for everything? I have over 18K of MPI products. Is there a discounted price for loyal customers? My wallet is getting robbed from our current president and I don't think I can pay full price for something like this.

I believe MCX uses a piggyback.

This flash is only for sleds that are producing more hp than the stock injectors can supply fuel for - in other words, big turbo/big super sleds. This flash is not for low boost sleds. If you are looking to upgrade your low boost sled, this is a very good solution because if the rest of your system is upgradeable and your fueling is inadequate, this will allow you to raise your boost and be able to supply the fuel without changing to a different piggyback, standalone, etc. You still must use your current piggyback. If you have a turbo system that you can't dial in because of the complexity of controlling a 4th injector, this is a solution for you rather than going to a standalone system which will be infinitely harder to tune properly for the average rider. There are other systems out there that are more costly than this which do the same thing.

andre162
01-29-2013, 08:17 AM
I'm pro MPI turbo's but recently I'm having second thoughts. Doesn't MCX 270 kit have a stand alone ECU? I also thought MPI had one aswell. Why would anyone pay 800.00 for this set up? I need more info please explain? And what's the total price for everything? I have over 18K of MPI products. Is there a discounted price for loyal customers? My wallet is getting robbed from our current president and I don't think I can pay full price for something like this.

Yes MPI has a standalone, the same as the impulse system. i have one on my sled and it works well but has some areas that can be improved. With the standalone you have to add another wireing harness as well as a second ECU. With this you dont need any of that and can simple use the GEMS for boost only. before the GEMS was trying to do more that the processor would allow it to do. from what i have learned this upgrade will run much better than the standalone and the GEMS will simply run the boost. this is much cheeper and simpler than the standalone and should work muh better as we it will be using yamaha systems and we all know how well thay work! cant wait to get my ECU and injectors back this week!

Evolution Powersports
01-29-2013, 08:18 AM
I would love to see this on a sled in Revelstoke . Try before you buy for me with fuel systems now . Heard " THIS IS THE TICKET " way too many times now . Rode a new cat with this though and was quite impressed compared to the boondocker box . Let us know when you have a test sled on the snow !

There are a few test sleds on the snow. We will see what we can do about getting one to BC this season...

double a ron
01-29-2013, 09:00 AM
Where did you get this info? This is exactly what is happening to mine.

MPI issued a service bulliten, have done nothing to address it though. Still selling them......

TurboM700
01-29-2013, 09:35 AM
I edited the posts because when I saw your questions it was obvious that I was not clear with respect to what the flashes do and how they work.

Regarding the safety flash - I will explain it backwards. The timing protection maps are engaged a lower temperature which turns the water temp light on. The reason this flash came to be is we burned up a Nytro in marginal snow conditions by being on boost when the temp light came on. The factory programmers did not anticipate the proliferation of forced induction kits that would be applied to their engines or did not recognize that this margin of safety would be reduced to near zero with additional power. Ironically the Arctic Cat 1100T is the same way - the motor can only be killed by water temperatures - again because there is no margin. The cost to rebuild a Nytro motor that has failed this way is easily over $1500. If you don't think this is worth the peace of mind knowing that will now have some margin in case you run into low snow conditions or punch a hole in a heat exchanger, then good luck. With respect to $100.00 (or $79 with another flash) to fix your very good and perfectly capable handwarmers - once again, good luck. I spent about $400.00 to fix my apex handwarmers after buying a used set of handlebars and buying the electronic fix offered by someone on TY 5 years ago.

What did this sled have for a cooling system on it. Was the radiator removed?

I have rode my sled on very marginal snow (thanks MN winters) and my coolant temp stays right around 180. But I also have the radiator.

I personal wouldn't mint this flash and the timing flash but I'm not ready to shell out 500 bucks on till there is some positive feedback on the improvements.

Mike

Mike

Sharp
01-29-2013, 10:10 AM
What do you consider big turbo/big supercharge?

Evolution Powersports
01-29-2013, 12:02 PM
Something that exceeds the capability of the stock injectors.

nate007
01-29-2013, 05:03 PM
So are you doing this via sending in the factory ECU for reprogram? The Alpha-N technology of the stock ecu is about as smart as a chalkboard eraser, primarilly operating via throttle position and rpm, offset slightly via manifold vaccuum (not pressure) and coolant temp (barely)?

With all due respect, just pulling timing across the board isn't a good idea for a boosted motor, when there's no boost reference signal or MAP sensor to the ECU. It's not very often that two boosted systems are identical, in identical conditions, so how does it adjust for what the engine actually NEEDS, or how/can it be tuned differently for a .5bar boosted system (7.2psi) or a 1bar (14.5 psi) boosten system, or is it a fixed adjustement across the board for any system? Something is better than nothing, I'll give you that, but if pay for this, can it be done differently for either of my boosted sleds with different boost levels?

I've seen it posted that you've made it rpm/load based? How? The stock ecu has no provisions for a positive value MAP sensor, and simply adding a positive value MAP sensor puts it's reading beyong the OEM calibration range, in which it has no idea what to do with such sensor values? Is your system an actual re-flash of the stock ECU, or a slight of hand, plug and play harness to fool certiain input values? Unless you've decoded the Mitsubishi ECU operating language, I'm not seeing how you only change the few things you do, when if you have developed software to actually re-tune the ecu, why not go further with with the other parameters that Yamaha doesn't use within it? I'm sure you've figured out (not saying why) that it's not the only thing that ECU is used on? Doesn't sound to me that it's a software based change, but rather more like a "resistor" based modification for the affected sensor inputs? Either way is completely your perogitave, and while marginally effective, you may consider being more transparent with your methodology as there are may of us that understand this technology very well. If it is in fact a re-flash, it would be nice to know the difficulties of reversing the modification if the need should arise, or if this is a permanent modification, unlike a piggyback controller whch can simply be unplugged?

Running a boost referenced piggyback can control fuel requirements, but having timing and fuel controlled by different "boxes" is a recipe for complications since one hand doesn't know what thte other is doing, and neither knows what it really should be doing. I do work with boosed engines and ecu programming for a living, and again, with all due respect, I'm more than a little bit "fuzzy" on the loic and excecution of this system, and for the justification of customer cost?

While I know you've been working very hard on it, and I have to praise the efforts you've made, I'm only touching on what I think is a logical and technical topic to justify the price you are asking, when this is something that still must be used in conjunction with a fuel tuner, only retards timing via rpm (load based isn't possible without additional components, and the OEM ecu wouldn't recognize them anyway) and isn't something that can be removed easilly if the user needs to in an emergency?

Please describe in somewhat greater detail what this entails, and what will make us spend hundreds of dollars on it?

Evo1
01-29-2013, 08:10 PM
So are you doing this via sending in the factory ECU for reprogram? The Alpha-N technology of the stock ecu is about as smart as a chalkboard eraser, primarilly operating via throttle position and rpm, offset slightly via manifold vaccuum (not pressure) and coolant temp (barely)?
With all due respect, just pulling timing across the board isn't a good idea for a boosted motor, when there's no boost reference signal or MAP sensor to the ECU. It's not very often that two boosted systems are identical, in identical conditions, so how does it adjust for what the engine actually NEEDS, or how/can it be tuned differently for a .5bar boosted system (7.2psi) or a 1bar (14.5 psi) boosten system, or is it a fixed adjustement across the board for any system? Something is better than nothing, I'll give you that, but if pay for this, can it be done differently for either of my boosted sleds with different boost levels?
I've seen it posted that you've made it rpm/load based? How? The stock ecu has no provisions for a positive value MAP sensor, and simply adding a positive value MAP sensor puts it's reading beyong the OEM calibration range, in which it has no idea what to do with such sensor values? Is your system an actual re-flash of the stock ECU, or a slight of hand, plug and play harness to fool certiain input values? Unless you've decoded the Mitsubishi ECU operating language, I'm not seeing how you only change the few things you do, when if you have developed software to actually re-tune the ecu, why not go further with with the other parameters that Yamaha doesn't use within it? I'm sure you've figured out (not saying why) that it's not the only thing that ECU is used on? Doesn't sound to me that it's a software based change, but rather more like a "resistor" based modification for the affected sensor inputs? Either way is completely your perogitave, and while marginally effective, you may consider being more transparent with your methodology as there are may of us that understand this technology very well. If it is in fact a re-flash, it would be nice to know the difficulties of reversing the modification if the need should arise, or if this is a permanent modification, unlike a piggyback controller whch can simply be unplugged?
Running a boost referenced piggyback can control fuel requirements, but having timing and fuel controlled by different "boxes" is a recipe for complications since one hand doesn't know what thte other is doing, and neither knows what it really should be doing. I do work with boosed engines and ecu programming for a living, and again, with all due respect, I'm more than a little bit "fuzzy" on the loic and excecution of this system, and for the justification of customer cost?
While I know you've been working very hard on it, and I have to praise the efforts you've made, I'm only touching on what I think is a logical and technical topic to justify the price you are asking, when this is something that still must be used in conjunction with a fuel tuner, only retards timing via rpm (load based isn't possible without additional components, and the OEM ecu wouldn't recognize them anyway) and isn't something that can be removed easilly if the user needs to in an emergency?
Please describe in somewhat greater detail what this entails, and what will make us spend hundreds of dollars on it?

Thank you for your post and bringing up some valid points. I am one of the ECU programmers at Evolution Powersports as well as Evolution MotorSports (evoms.com) and Intelligent Tuning (evomsit.com). What we are offering here is an ECU REFLASH. There are no resistors or external signal modifying devices, etc. This is a TRUE reprogram of the internal Mitsubishi ECU memory which can be flashed back to stock at any time if needed.
<O:p
The ECU does have input from the throttle position, MAP sensor which does in fact read positive pressure (irrelevant for this topic) speed sensor, coolant temp, etc. The "theoretical load" is based off of throttle position, speed and RPM. When we program the ECU for a boosted application, we are not "just pulling timing across the board" as you mention. The timing is reduced based on a theoretical boost level based on RPM and "load". With the increased boost and RPM, the timing is tapered so the most timing is reduced in the higher RPM, higher "load" areas and less in the lower "load" areas and lower RPMS. <O:p</O:p
<O:p</O:p

There are other items in our software that we modify as well that are mentioned. Rescaling the water temp table to activate the timing retard safety routine sooner is a huge benefit on a boosted sled. Additionally, scaling larger injectors to operate like the stock ones is another feature we chose to include in our development. There are features that we recalibrated as well to eliminate some of the drivability issues and stumbles that can be experienced on a boosted sled with the OEM calibration. <O:p</O:p
<O:p</O:p

What we have developed in this ECU is no different than what we do when we tune a normally aspirated ECU such as a BMW MS52 from an E46 M3 when we add a turbo or supercharger system. We convert to an alpha-N setup and program for larger injectors, reduced ignition timing, etc. Yes, there are limitations in this Mitsubishi ECU that are not 100% ideal however what we have accomplished with our software calibration does make the engine run more optimal, safer and eliminates some of the drivability issues that are inherent to a boosted nytro.
<O:p</O:p
<O:p</O:p
I hope this clarifies some of the questions raised without getting into a pissing match about what we know about this ECU, tuning principals as well as "terminology" that is used. Ideally, custom tuning every sled would be great but not realistic. We feel that what we have developed will work for 90% of the mild to mid power boosted sleds out there and those that want custom tuning and are willing to pay for it, we are more than willing to provide this service. :face-icon-small-hap<O:p</O:p

Matte Murder
01-30-2013, 10:08 PM
For some of the Yamaha guys that don't know Evolution Powersports background with Arctic Cat or the car world I will through in a reference for them. In car world these guys are a premier player for tuning. Their HUGE advantage in cars and now sleds is their programing skills. Evolution MOTORSPORTS and evomsit.com have built a stellar reputation in large part tuning Porsche turbocharged STREET cars. I have raced at a pretty high level and can tell you that race cars($200,000-$750,000 racecars) are vastly simpler to do than high horsepower street cars. Street cars need to run well at all elevations, temperatures, speeds, loads etc. Cracking the factory codes and getting a tune on a 3.6L engine making 750HP that will never fail to start and have great daily drivability but also live through an owners 10 minute full throttle blast across the Mojave desert in 100 degree heat is no small undertaking. It is very hard for the Evo guys to thump their chest and say "trust us guys, we have the Yamaha ECU covered" without sounding arrogant. So I will do it for them.The beauty of the AC 1100T tunes they do is that all of the engine protection and compensation features are not only enabled but enhanced. There is not enough money in snowmobiling for a company to acquire the skill and knowledge the Evo guys have. The billet compressor designs in the Super Chute turbo come from years of building turbos for cars. Who in sled world has $100,000s to invest in design and research of turbo wheels? Google Evolution Motorsports and evomsit.com and see what these guys are capable of. These guys are NOT doing sled stuff too make a bunch of money. They are doing it because they love snowmobiles and enjoy the challenge.

Linc
01-31-2013, 08:08 AM
Thank you for your post and bringing up some valid points. I am one of the ECU programmers at Evolution Powersports as well as Evolution MotorSports (evoms.com) and Intelligent Tuning (evomsit.com). What we are offering here is an ECU REFLASH. There are no resistors or external signal modifying devices, etc. This is a TRUE reprogram of the internal Mitsubishi ECU memory which can be flashed back to stock at any time if needed.
<O:p
The ECU does have input from the throttle position, MAP sensor which does in fact read positive pressure (irrelevant for this topic) speed sensor, coolant temp, etc. The "theoretical load" is based off of throttle position, speed and RPM. When we program the ECU for a boosted application, we are not "just pulling timing across the board" as you mention. The timing is reduced based on a theoretical boost level based on RPM and "load". With the increased boost and RPM, the timing is tapered so the most timing is reduced in the higher RPM, higher "load" areas and less in the lower "load" areas and lower RPMS. <O:p</O:p
<O:p</O:p

There are other items in our software that we modify as well that are mentioned. Rescaling the water temp table to activate the timing retard safety routine sooner is a huge benefit on a boosted sled. Additionally, scaling larger injectors to operate like the stock ones is another feature we chose to include in our development. There are features that we recalibrated as well to eliminate some of the drivability issues and stumbles that can be experienced on a boosted sled with the OEM calibration. <O:p</O:p
<O:p</O:p

What we have developed in this ECU is no different than what we do when we tune a normally aspirated ECU such as a BMW MS52 from an E46 M3 when we add a turbo or supercharger system. We convert to an alpha-N setup and program for larger injectors, reduced ignition timing, etc. Yes, there are limitations in this Mitsubishi ECU that are not 100% ideal however what we have accomplished with our software calibration does make the engine run more optimal, safer and eliminates some of the drivability issues that are inherent to a boosted nytro.
<O:p</O:p
<O:p</O:p
I hope this clarifies some of the questions raised without getting into a pissing match about what we know about this ECU, tuning principals as well as "terminology" that is used. Ideally, custom tuning every sled would be great but not realistic. We feel that what we have developed will work for 90% of the mild to mid power boosted sleds out there and those that want custom tuning and are willing to pay for it, we are more than willing to provide this service. :face-icon-small-hap<O:p</O:p

Wow… Finally someone has figured out what makes these things tick, and how to make them tock, or talk, whichever. I've always maintained that unless you can make the the ECU understand what the engine needs and compensate for it, everything else is stopgap. I'm certain that the stock ECU can't accommodate a closed loops system, but that would rule the snow if it could. It drives me nuts when the Nytro or even the APEX has that little stumble just before it comes on, now it been explained… thanks.

BigFish BC
01-31-2013, 08:08 PM
some cool stuff,seems a bit pricy but its for sleds so it will always be big$ think you would do better priced a little diff:face-icon-small-coo.did not see anywhere on how the programing will be done,will it be just send it in & wait or can you do swaps with another ecu.

Evolution Powersports
02-01-2013, 01:05 PM
some cool stuff,seems a bit pricy but its for sleds so it will always be big$ think you would do better priced a little diff:face-icon-small-coo.did not see anywhere on how the programing will be done,will it be just send it in & wait or can you do swaps with another ecu.

There are two locations that have the capability to do the flash:

Evolution Powersports
30960 Hummingbird Lane
Steamboat Springs, CO 80487
970-680-EVO1 (3861) Please call before shipping.

Mountain Performance (MPI)
12379 So. 265 W, Unit B
Draper, UTAH 84020
(888) 649-4609

KMOD
02-01-2013, 03:18 PM
I had a chance to ride with the EVO guys while they were in IP on New Years day, I have a Big Chute on my 1100T and wanted to ride with them in case I had any tunning questions.
They were on a couple of Super Chute 1100Ts and there was 1 Yamaha Nytro with a MPI super charger they said they had done some tunning on.
All the sleds ran flawless, no bobbles, no hesitations, no miss fires, just spot on! The super charged Yamaha had a loud exhaust on it and when we were waiting for some of the other riders, you could hear it run. It never missed a beat, very crisp, clean, the sled was making good power. I was really impressed with this one because its the best running super charged Nytro I have ever been around.

I have rode my Big Chute 1100T from 4500 ft in the field to 9,500 ft climbing a 900 ft 45 degree or steeper slope with the same experiance ( it runs spot on every pull). In and out of the throttle doing technical manauvers in deep powder doesnt matter it just runs and pulls hard.

I guess my point is these guys are on their game and I think we have only seen a small part of their expertise, Ill bet there is much more to come.
Kevin

BigFish BC
02-01-2013, 08:13 PM
There are two locations that have the capability to do the flash:

Evolution Powersports
30960 Hummingbird Lane
Steamboat Springs, CO 80487
970-680-EVO1 (3861) Please call before shipping.

Mountain Performance (MPI)
12379 So. 265 W, Unit B
Draper, UTAH 84020
(888) 649-4609

so no exchange then & what is turn around time?

Evolution Powersports
02-02-2013, 07:02 AM
We reflash them the same day they arrive. Shipping is usually the next business day. If urgent, we can bring the package to UPS for same day shipping service.

Linc
02-02-2013, 07:35 AM
Will this work for the MCX systems as, particularly the 240 kit?

Matte Murder
02-03-2013, 01:52 PM
Or 270?:face-icon-small-hap

Tarzannr1
02-03-2013, 03:27 PM
Or 330hp Mcx Nytro

Evolution Powersports
02-06-2013, 03:27 PM
Will this work for the MCX systems as, particularly the 240 kit?

The Safety Flash and Reduced Timing & Handwarmer Fix are universal flashes except the programming varies a little by model (Mountain or Flatland) and model year.

The big injector flash would need to be coordinated with MCX's controller to make it work.

izzni
02-07-2013, 03:29 PM
So you want the public to pay $300 for their water temp light to come earlier? A water temp gauge is half that with pipe adapter. Then have the already crap factory grips get warm for $100 when a set of RSI is $40 and twice the heat.

I guess its cool and im sure you will get some suckers but thats spendy. For $200 bucks i can fix both those problems too and not have to send off my ECU. My .02

I love it how people underestimate the time and value of software. It probably took them months to understand enough of circuit design of the ECU and the software to even understand where and how the water temp was dealt with.

xtrememotorworks
02-12-2013, 10:06 PM
Im glad to see more people jump into the sled game. IMO we are just starting to see tech that has been used in cars for years and its about time. People need to understand the thousands of hours and dollars it takes to bring products like this to the table.

partsman
03-11-2013, 11:42 PM
This reflash has been on the market for a while now.Does anybody have first hand experience with the timing & safety reflash. I was thinking of trying it.It could save on fuel costs or run more boost ???.
Well I sent my ecu away monday mar 18 and got it back for a weekend ride.Cant wait to try,I will give it a report monday.I think this will be like the racer's edge rear suspension I bought in 2010 (no one wanted to say how good it was at first)I ride in whistler most weekends if someone wants to see it work.

andre162
03-15-2013, 07:03 PM
I have had mine for a couple months now and dont have as many miles as I would like due to lack of snow but from what I have found it has improved my performance greatly. I am running the full reflash with the injectors and my sled is building 3 psi mor than before. I am running a stage II at 18PSI and it runs great!!!!

partsman
03-26-2013, 12:20 AM
I received my ECU for a ride sunday.I had the safety,timing and hand warmer flash done.I did not think the hand warmers needed the upgrade but after trying it sure does work good now,well worth the 79.00 dollars.I also noticed the overheat light on the groomed trail this never happened before the flash. I did not realize the stock coolers ran the motor so hot.As for the timing the sled feels a way better not so violent at wot.I will turn the boost up and see how far I can push the limits.Money well spent:face-icon-small-hap

Thanks Jim for giving us these options.

Evolution Powersports
03-29-2013, 06:10 AM
You're welcome! :face-icon-small-win

pelon
03-29-2013, 08:33 AM
I would like to try one of these systems, just don't know which is best. I have upgraded my cooling and run no hotter than 160 on any given day. Temp is not a concern. So I guess my choice is between the other ECU reprogrammings you offer.

Currently, I run 15-18 psi with the great (money well spent) boost-it system . How could any of your products help me?

I live in Alamosa, so I'll even come up there to test your product. If you have any snow left!

thanks

sledheadd
03-30-2013, 01:38 AM
Is like to get the timing. temp and handlebar warmer flash.
Will you be offering a discount during the off season ?
Thanks

Evolution Powersports
03-30-2013, 09:14 AM
The two programs that will help you are the timing reduction and the handwarmer fix. The timing reduction will allow you to lower your fuel requirements or increase boost by 2-3 lbs and use the same fuel you are using now. The hand warmer fix is very worthwhile if you have an 08-11 Nytro. Guys don't realize how bad the stock warmers are until they have them updated via programming.

Unfortunately, we are not back in Colorado until June.

We offer a 14 day money back guarantee on our ECU reflashes - if you are not happy, we will refund your money.


I would like to try one of these systems, just don't know which is best. I have upgraded my cooling and run no hotter than 160 on any given day. Temp is not a concern. So I guess my choice is between the other ECU reprogrammings you offer.

Currently, I run 15-18 psi with the great (money well spent) boost-it system . How could any of your products help me?

I live in Alamosa, so I'll even come up there to test your product. If you have any snow left!

thanks

Evolution Powersports
03-30-2013, 09:16 AM
Is like to get the timing. temp and handlebar warmer flash.
Will you be offering a discount during the off season ?
Thanks

We may offer a summer sale. We will announce it here once we decide.

christopher
06-19-2013, 09:24 PM
We may offer a summer sale. We will announce it here once we decide.
Its SUMMER NOW...:face-icon-small-hap:face-icon-small-hap

Duke
06-20-2013, 09:53 AM
The two programs that will help you are the timing reduction and the handwarmer fix. The timing reduction will allow you to lower your fuel requirements or increase boost by 2-3 lbs and use the same fuel you are using now. The hand warmer fix is very worthwhile if you have an 08-11 Nytro. Guys don't realize how bad the stock warmers are until they have them updated via programming.

Unfortunately, we are not back in Colorado until June.

We offer a 14 day money back guarantee on our ECU reflashes - if you are not happy, we will refund your money.

If I sent you an ECU, could you do the handwarmer update and raise Apex rev limiter by a couple hundred RPM? I'm not interested in a timing change..

carbontj
06-22-2013, 04:56 AM
What you guys are doing is going to change the snowmobile industry!!! I send my congrats....

This will be the norm once all sleds are fuel injected...I can see this will happen to the 2 strokes as well...

Being in the racing industry I see first hand what can be made for gains and longevity with flashing/changing the mapping for HP gains and more efficiency as well...I could see a big gain in HP by flashing the timing and fuel for a fraction of the costs from adding pipes, clutch kits, engine work...

Once you get into the mapping you could go as far as traction control, just like in cars...

Great work guys, you are a head of the game...

TJ

christopher
12-02-2013, 01:17 PM
So we upgraded 2 ECUs in November.
One for my Supercharged Nytro and one for Chim Chim's new Turbo Nytro.

Both of us are reporting Temp Warnings this weekend from the first run.

My sled goes in and out of Temp Warning depending on what I am doing.
In DEEP snow the warning goes off more often than not.
On trail or any normal riding, the warning light is ON almost 100% of the time.

Chim Chim was seeing his Warning Light ON 100% of the time, it NEVER went out.

Both of us had the "Safety" flash done which lowers the warning temp 20 degrees before setting off the light for added safety.


Clearly in our cases this is not working out so well as the light is coming on when the engine is really in no danger, and if the light is on all the time, then the warning is of no value as you see the light constantly.

Soooo

The question now becomes one of ADDITIONAL COOLING.

What should we be doing to pull down the coolant temps?

Matt@MPI
12-02-2013, 03:28 PM
It clearly shows how hot these sled run. The light now turns on a 190 not 212. Your sled has been running hot most of the time without you knowing it. Water temp becomes so important when boosted. Plus it’s early in the year and snow isn't that great. We sell a tunnel cooler kit that is so over kill you can ditch the radiator that doesn't work any way. These coolers are designed to fit stock sleds along with supercharged and most rear <ST1:p<?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comhttp://www.snowest.com/forum/ /><st1:PlaceType alt=</st1:PlaceType>mount <st1:PlaceName w:st="on">turbo kits.</st1:PlaceName></ST1:p<O:p</O:p

christopher
12-02-2013, 04:30 PM
Looks like it is mounted on a drop bracket.
Wonder if I can make that work with the Skinz Under Tunnel Exhaust system installed?

TRUEBLUEMAX
12-02-2013, 04:40 PM
I find that interesting that you were having that trouble with that. I installed a temp gauge for the first time last year. My sled rarely got over 180 even on pretty hardpacked trails. Any off trail riding and I was in the 135-140 range. I wonder why we would see so much difference???

I would be interested in that cooler you are selling Matt. I would love to get rid of my radiator in order to move some more weight off of the front of my sled. How much is that setup, and do you know if it works with the push turbo setup alright?

greasemonkey3406
12-02-2013, 04:40 PM
So we upgraded 2 ECUs in November.
One for my Supercharged Nytro and one for Chim Chim's new Turbo Nytro.

Both of us are reporting Temp Warnings this weekend from the first run.

My sled goes in and out of Temp Warning depending on what I am doing.
In DEEP snow the warning goes off more often than not.
On trail or any normal riding, the warning light is ON almost 100% of the time.

Chim Chim was seeing his Warning Light ON 100% of the time, it NEVER went out.

Both of us had the "Safety" flash done which lowers the warning temp 20 degrees before setting off the light for added safety.


Clearly in our cases this is not working out so well as the light is coming on when the engine is really in no danger, and if the light is on all the time, then the warning is of no value as you see the light constantly.

Soooo

The question now becomes one of ADDITIONAL COOLING.

What should we be doing to pull down the coolant temps?

I think theres more going on there. I have my koso x2 installed so I can monitor my coolant temps all the time. The only time I ever see 170 degrees or higher is when Im riding on a trail with zero snow to kick up. I run with scratchers almost all the time on the trail and never have any issues.

christopher
12-02-2013, 04:45 PM
I think theres more going on there. I have my koso x2 installed so I can monitor my coolant temps all the time. The only time I ever see 170 degrees or higher is when Im riding on a trail with zero snow to kick up. I run with scratchers almost all the time on the trail and never have any issues.

Have my Koso in hand, hope to have it installed by this weekend as well. Might take longer depending on the Coolant Line adapter. But I WILL have a water temp gauge shortly to know FOR SURE whats going on here.

TRUEBLUEMAX
12-02-2013, 04:45 PM
So Greasemonkey where do you have your temp sensor installed? I wonder if that has anything to do with it. When I had mine apart doing the turbo I noticed one of the lines coming off of the tunnel cooler had a hose connector in it already so I just pulled that out and installed it there. I am wondering now if that could be the very end of the cooling system which would make the temp read dramatically lower than just coming out of the engine.

Does anyone have a coolant flow diagram for the Nytro???

christopher
12-02-2013, 04:55 PM
So Greasemonkey where do you have your temp sensor installed? I am wondering now if that could be the very end of the cooling system which would make the temp read dramatically lower than just coming out of the engine.
Interesting thought.
Which is of more value to know.

Peak Temp coming off the engine
or
Cooled temp returning to the engine?

irondave86
12-02-2013, 06:35 PM
You should be measuring your coolant temp as it leaves the motor.

Matt@MPI
12-02-2013, 06:44 PM
Looks like it is mounted on a drop bracket.
Wonder if I can make that work with the Skinz Under Tunnel Exhaust system installed?

It's not mounted to the drop bracket. Everything is mounted to the tunnel with rivets.

Matt@MPI
12-02-2013, 06:50 PM
You should be measuring your coolant temp as it leaves the motor. Yes before it goes into the radiator " if you still have one"

So Greasemonkey where do you have your temp sensor installed? I wonder if that has anything to do with it. When I had mine apart doing the turbo I noticed one of the lines coming off of the tunnel cooler had a hose connector in it already so I just pulled that out and installed it there. I am wondering now if that could be the very end of the cooling system which would make the temp read dramatically lower than just coming out of the engine.

Does anyone have a coolant flow diagram for the Nytro???
I have a hand drawn one that I use to remenber how it runs.

Matt@MPI
12-02-2013, 07:01 PM
I find that interesting that you were having that trouble with that. I installed a temp gauge for the first time last year. My sled rarely got over 180 even on pretty hardpacked trails. Any off trail riding and I was in the 135-140 range. I wonder why we would see so much difference???

I would be interested in that cooler you are selling Matt. I would love to get rid of my radiator in order to move some more weight off of the front of my sled. How much is that setup, and do you know if it works with the push turbo setup alright?

The cooler is $465.00 and the degass bottle is $29.95 so you can remove your radiator. I don't see any reason why it shouldn't work with your Push kit.

greasemonkey3406
12-02-2013, 07:41 PM
So Greasemonkey where do you have your temp sensor installed? I wonder if that has anything to do with it. When I had mine apart doing the turbo I noticed one of the lines coming off of the tunnel cooler had a hose connector in it already so I just pulled that out and installed it there. I am wondering now if that could be the very end of the cooling system which would make the temp read dramatically lower than just coming out of the engine.

Does anyone have a coolant flow diagram for the Nytro???

I mounted it in the hose that leaves the thermostat housing and goes into the left side of the radiator.

christopher
12-02-2013, 09:09 PM
You should be measuring your coolant temp as it leaves the motor.
So we are looking for the MAXIMUM temp as it leaves the engine.

christopher
12-02-2013, 09:11 PM
It's not mounted to the drop bracket. Everything is mounted to the tunnel with rivets.
Not THE Drop Bracket for the suspension, but a drop bracket that appears to have been made by MPI from the looks of your photos.

It looks like you guys have made a change or two from the older style that mounted up into the corner of the tunnel. The photo you posted makes it look like it mounts flat under the tunnel now, on a lowered bracket.

Matt@MPI
12-02-2013, 09:30 PM
Not THE Drop Bracket for the suspension, but a drop bracket that appears to have been made by MPI from the looks of your photos.

It looks like you guys have made a change or two from the older style that mounted up into the corner of the tunnel. The photo you posted makes it look like it mounts flat under the tunnel now, on a lowered bracket.

Yes we did. We wanted to make it compatible with the rear mount turbo kits and still maintain the same surface area of our original design.

christopher
12-02-2013, 09:48 PM
Yes we did. We wanted to make it compatible with the rear mount turbo kits and still maintain the same surface area of our original design.
Got it.
Of the ones I have seen today, the MPI looks like it has the MOST SURFACE COOLING area by FAR and away.

Matt@MPI
12-03-2013, 12:13 PM
So we are looking for the MAXIMUM temp as it leaves the engine.

Yes. When the coolant leaves the motor it runs into the t-stat then into the radiator. We put the sensor right after the t-stat.<O:p</O:p
<O:p</O:p

The stock routing goes like this: When it leaves the motor it goes into the t-stat, LH side of radiator, tunnel cooler, bulkhead cooler then back into the motor.<O:p</O:p

christopher
12-03-2013, 12:25 PM
Yes. When the coolant leaves the motor it runs into the t-stat then into the radiator. We put the sensor right after the t-stat.<o:p</o<o:p</o<o:p</o

By any chance would you know what the INSIDE DIAMETER of that hose line is??

First accessory I need for the install, Koso Water Temperature Sensor Adapter.
http://www.kosonorthamerica.com/koso...ensor-adaptor/ (http://www.kosonorthamerica.com/koso/shop/motorcycle_acc/water-temperature-sensor-adaptor/)

Just have to figure out which size to get ordered.
14, 16, 18, 22 or 26mm???
http://cdn-6.psndealer.com/e2/dealersite/images/ec0407/27-5715.jpg

greasemonkey3406
12-03-2013, 08:50 PM
By any chance would you know what the INSIDE DIAMETER of that hose line is??

First accessory I need for the install, Koso Water Temperature Sensor Adapter.
http://www.kosonorthamerica.com/koso...ensor-adaptor/ (http://www.kosonorthamerica.com/koso/shop/motorcycle_acc/water-temperature-sensor-adaptor/)

Just have to figure out which size to get ordered.
14, 16, 18, 22 or 26mm???
http://cdn-6.psndealer.com/e2/dealersite/images/ec0407/27-5715.jpg

The hose is a 1 inch id so I bought the 26mm.

christopher
12-03-2013, 11:04 PM
MANY THANKS!

Apparently MPI makes an adapter just the same as the Koso.
http://www.snowest.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=1821&pictureid=29392

pigfarmer62
01-02-2014, 05:22 PM
Fellas,

I am considering buying a new (2011) nytro w/MPI supercharger from my local dealer. They performed the supercharger install in 2011 and it has been sitting on their showroom floor since. My question is, is this new flash upgrade to the ECU just for the higher boost sled? Or is this something that would also benefit the lower boost sled that I am considering buying? Also, is there anything else that I should ask the dealer about before buying with regards to the MPI supercharger that they installed? I appreciate any word of wisdom you may have.

christopher
01-02-2014, 05:49 PM
The ECU flash is not NEEDED or REQUIRED. Mine ran just fine without it for years. But it does add a greater margin of safety which may result in more years of happy service life down the road. Other than the cost I see no real downside to it and potentially lots of upside over time.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1) 2 pro.

Powder Man
01-02-2014, 06:06 PM
What I would do and Christopher will probably back this up would be to get rid of the gems controller and run a bridge controller from pyschosled. If you buy it run it for awhile and you'll see what I'm talking about. You have to mess with the fuel settings quite a bit with elevation changes, with the bridge you don't.