B
These automatic hubs are $270 a piece and don't last for nothing. What have others done instead of replacing with OEM hubs? WARN doesn't make a automatic replacement for it either. Thanks.
4X4 hubs on 2003 F250
- Thread starter BigMan
- Start date
A
Why would you want to replace them with another set? mine come unlocked from time to time and soon as this season is over I'm going manual. warn or mile marker is about your only option unless you want to go with oem automatics
C
The guys that want to lose the OE auto lockouts go with Warn manuals.
Do yourself a favor...buy the heavyduty WARN MANUAL HUBS and be done with it. They have 2 styles get the H-D ones. Go back to what has worked for years. Just lock inyour hubs BEFORE you get to the mud or snow if you don't wanna get your feet dirty. I've warrantied and replaced more of those hubs than I could possibly shake a stick at. Mine and my wifes' powerchokes each got 4 sets warrantied before the warranty ran out. Used to work for Ford. Both have had the warns for 4 years now, no issues.
There's also a vaccum line that loves to split that attaches to the steering nuckle that is supposed to lock in the hubs when the driver selects the switch. The hose gets hard and splits causing the line to fall off the vaccum nipple. When you replace with the WARN'S, make sure you plug these lines as they will affect your heater/defrost function which may or may not be working correctly anyway if the line is off.
There's also a vaccum line that loves to split that attaches to the steering nuckle that is supposed to lock in the hubs when the driver selects the switch. The hose gets hard and splits causing the line to fall off the vaccum nipple. When you replace with the WARN'S, make sure you plug these lines as they will affect your heater/defrost function which may or may not be working correctly anyway if the line is off.
B
So by going with manuals it won't screw up anything that is associated with the automatic system as long as I plug it off? Where do break the line to plug it off? Thanks.
S
hubs
Hey,there is several "fixes" for the problem.Not very often do the hubs fail completely.Most times the seals are gone.Its expensive fix,the seals get pricey,and are labor intensive.A specail tool is req to install the seals correctly.Secondly if the hubs pop out,you are suppost to drill the end of the axle shaft taper deeper.The hubs didn't have enough clearance and the alxes would walk slightly and pop the hubs out.You local ford dealer should be able to help you out.There are tools to test the hubs as well.
If your 4x4 does not work and the light is on.Brake torque the truck and look which front axle u joint is not turning,the shft that IS turning is the problem(not enguaging)
Hey,there is several "fixes" for the problem.Not very often do the hubs fail completely.Most times the seals are gone.Its expensive fix,the seals get pricey,and are labor intensive.A specail tool is req to install the seals correctly.Secondly if the hubs pop out,you are suppost to drill the end of the axle shaft taper deeper.The hubs didn't have enough clearance and the alxes would walk slightly and pop the hubs out.You local ford dealer should be able to help you out.There are tools to test the hubs as well.
If your 4x4 does not work and the light is on.Brake torque the truck and look which front axle u joint is not turning,the shft that IS turning is the problem(not enguaging)
M
even the automatic hubs need to be locked in when you really use them ours have auto and lock. auto is more for not pulling anything stuck on ice and such at least thats the way mine are never had a prob
A
auto hubs
The ford auto hubs are Junk. I own an F450 and an F250, both diesels, both thrashed the stock lockouts. I bought the warn lockout kit for both of them and it is BULLET PROOF. My F250 has Lockers front and rear with 35" Xterrains, never broke a lockout and this truck sees ABUSE. The other problem with the auto front ends is that when you engage the 4x4, it activates the vacuum line down to the spindle, if the front end is in any water or mud, and your vacuum seals leak a little (they all do) you will suck water in next to your wheel bearing and eventually it will work it's way into the inner race of the hub assembly. Then you get to buy a $300 wheel bearing. When you install the manual lockouts, take the vacuum lines off the spindles and cap them. This will ensure years of worry free front end use!
The ford auto hubs are Junk. I own an F450 and an F250, both diesels, both thrashed the stock lockouts. I bought the warn lockout kit for both of them and it is BULLET PROOF. My F250 has Lockers front and rear with 35" Xterrains, never broke a lockout and this truck sees ABUSE. The other problem with the auto front ends is that when you engage the 4x4, it activates the vacuum line down to the spindle, if the front end is in any water or mud, and your vacuum seals leak a little (they all do) you will suck water in next to your wheel bearing and eventually it will work it's way into the inner race of the hub assembly. Then you get to buy a $300 wheel bearing. When you install the manual lockouts, take the vacuum lines off the spindles and cap them. This will ensure years of worry free front end use!
F
We have found they work longer in the dry climates,it seems that they are able to draw a lot of moisture past the seals and corrode like crazy.I am suprised to hear someone say they have replaced the seals because Ford told us they were non serviceable and we have tried to make a tool to replace them but have been unsucsefull.I have swapped all mine out with the Warns and like everone says cap the vacume line or you will burn up the vacume pump and it is pricey to replace.:beer;:beer;
R
If we are on the topic of crap hubs, how about those wheel/bearing hub assmy. I finaly went to a dyna-trac free spin kit. I felt kinda stupid, same old tech found in my 78 f350 with a Dana 60 front. Ford should have just stuck with what worked!
thats what i was gonna mention is theres a kit to convert to the old bearing and hub setup and do away with the crappy bearing pack thing in there. supposed to be much stronger than stock, i believe they make them for ford and dodge.
A
Vaccuum seals
The Vaccuum seals are really pricy (like $114/side) and you need a special driver that looks like a big iron doughnut with a lip around the outside. It is also around $150? I think I got it through Napa. Just pound the big seal in until the driver bottoms on the spindle. works really slick for changing balljoints and axlejoints, because lord knows I ruined a few of those Vaccuum seals on the reinstall....
The Vaccuum seals are really pricy (like $114/side) and you need a special driver that looks like a big iron doughnut with a lip around the outside. It is also around $150? I think I got it through Napa. Just pound the big seal in until the driver bottoms on the spindle. works really slick for changing balljoints and axlejoints, because lord knows I ruined a few of those Vaccuum seals on the reinstall....
J
I have the dynatrac freespin kit also and i love it. But before i bought the kit my stock hubs craped out so i bought a set of warn premium manual hubs which i only used for a few months. The dunatrac kit comes with the same warn premiums. I will sell the warns i took off for 100$ if interested. they are mint cond. I also have ons stock hub in good cond if interested. If going new go warn. Way better for half price. A no brainer if u ask me!!
